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Fat Freddy
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Posts posted by Fat Freddy
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Righto, so there’s no golden rules about this? Just suck it and see?
I’ve heard serious racers talking about different weight oils in front and rear diffs and how it fixed this or that handling problem so always assumed there was some dark art to it.
Fingers crossed I’ve accidentally hit on the sweet spot eh? 🤣
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What size pinion do you guys favour?
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I want to join the silver can gang but I’m not sure how to budget this?
I’m using a TT02 I’d planned to use for speed runs (never got past 40mph before crashing) which has just been sat on the shelf for a year or so.
I think the original kit cost £120?
At the time I got a couple of hop ups, a bearing kit, and metal drive shaft kit, as well as a high speed spur gear and a set of oil damped shocks £100?? I honestly don’t remember.
Servo is also recycled, but was about £25 when it was new.An extra RX £18 (but no new TX so not adding that to budget).
Add another £20 (?) for paint
So that’s about £275+…..Well over the £200 limit.
But it’s all pre-loved, so how much of it do I count it all toward the budget?
The only real cost this has incurred are £16 for a set of cheapo wheels with rally blocks fitted and £10 on a Kamtec chassis cover.It currently has a brushless combo in it but I’ll swap that for brushed motor I already have and I definitely have a Tamiya ESC although I’m sure I have an old HW1060 somewhere too? “Torque tuned” still counts as a silver can right?
The shell is a fictional car that Tamiya made up. I might replace it with something more “rally” at some point. Possibly an Escort Mk1 shell from Kamtec?
In the meantime all I’ve done is trim off the front splitter to help with ground clearance and a light trim round the wheel arches to accommodate the new tyres.
I’ve given the chassis the “Mark Bryan” treatment and got some extra ground clearance.
Just have to swap out the electrics. Chassis cover due to arrive tomorrow and I’m good to go 👍
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Update. I had an hour spare. Decided to grease the front diff so it was the same as the rear.
Got it madly wrong. Obviously hadn’t used as much grease in the rear as I thought.
The front diff was REALLY stiff.So I wiped out a fair bit of grease and reassembled it. Now it seems pretty much the same as the rear. Roughly…..maybe?
So any idea if I’ve done the right thing?
No idea what effect any of this will have on the handling 🤷♂️
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I’ve had a TT02 sat on the shelf unused for ages. It was meant to be used for speed runs, but I struggled to find anywhere local that was flat enough and long enough to get to full speed.
And I kept crashing 🤦♂️
So inspired by @BigGinge’s silver can rally build off, (EDIT: sorry that was @Cuiken’s silver can rally build off) have set about improving ground clearance after watching a few YouTube vids.
In one of the vids it was suggested that putting some sticky grease in the diff would stiffen it up and reduce slip. I’ve done that on the rear diff, but I may have over done it as the difference between front and rear is quite marked.
So, before I do the front, my question is this….
Would it be better to have both diffs the same, or, if different, would you make the front stiffer than the rear, or vice verse?
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I only have super cheap RTR radios to compare it with, but it’s definitely my best transmitter.
No idea how it would stack up against more premium stuff, but I really like it.-
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28 minutes ago, jjl5590 said:
Heya, any idea if the Dremel line and circle cutter (678) will work with this?
Honestly? No idea. Probably???
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Jools Holland trying a tad too hard at being cool here 😂
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4 hours ago, BlackSeaRC said:
Removed the gearbox assembly from the AT4V...
That’s some proper snow you have there!
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How does it drive?
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2 hours ago, totlxtc said:
Whatever you do, make sure that the edges of the masking tape is firmly down. Run your fingernail along them to make sure its pressed firm. Spray light coats is best.Spot on. Also, repeat the process after your first coat. Sometimes the masking wrinkles slightly as the paint dries. Run your thumb nail down all the edges before you do a second coat.
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7 hours ago, Stormbringer said:
just checked and motor limits for esc are 2s 12 turn and 3s 18 turn
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-quicrun-1060-brushed-waterproof-esc-sbec-404964
Ahhh, interesting, I didn’t know a 1060 was 3s compatible.
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As I understand it, the T value is the number of coils of wire around the rotor. Essentially the lighter the rotor (the fewer turns), the faster it can spin. Good for speed, but not for acceleration.
More turns means more weight, so spins slower but generates more torque.
I’d guess something like this would suit you https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/core-rc-15t-silver-can-brushed-540-motor-442358
but that’s not a recommendation, just a suggestion, I’ve no personal experience of one of these.
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49 minutes ago, Rustic Ade said:
Yeah but it's a bit of fun. Or would be if I could get it going faster than I can walk!
I don't know anything about the motors and pinion gears. I have a 14 tooth on the motor which goes to a 58 toothed gear.
All standard gearbox/diff, motor isn't but don't know what it is.
Any suggestions for making it quicker, it does seem to handle well albeit slow.
I’d just run it with the gearing you have for now. But if you want to go a bit faster get a larger pinion, or if you feel it needs more torque, get a smaller pinion. Pinion gears are relatively cheap and easy to swap, so experiment.
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5 minutes ago, Ag100 said:
Cheers, worth a go at that price, just ordered one, the voltage is better on this at least, we shall see👍
There’s some self interest here. If it works for you, it’ll work for me 😉👍
🤞
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Do you have ANY wriggle room on those servo dimensions? Or is this just the same size as you already have?
Edit: that link is huge!
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Not really sure why I put this on here. Probably because there’s a part of me doesn’t really want to sell it 😂
But, in the unlikely event any of you ARE interested in it, you might also be interested in my bike gear, jacket, trousers etc?
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https://www.instagram.com/reel/CmZChywqUht/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
l don’t think this got the love it deserved on Instagram so leaving it here 🤣
EDIT: ……Again, just realised I already left it on here weeks ago 🤦♂️
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Hard to tell in the pic but it does look like the shock is rubbing up against the shock tower? If so, maybe a spacer at the top to give a little more room for the shock to move freely? As long as that doesn’t push the shock too far out and cause binding issues where the shock mounts on the swing arm.
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On 15/02/2023 at 12:01, totlxtc said:
Nearly 40 years ago some friends of mine were getting married. We were all teenagers and none of us had any money. So when a mutual acquaintance told them they were in a Hawkwind tribute band and would play the wedding reception for free, the happy couple were delighted.
On the big day, after the speeches the band started their set with Silver machine…. Then played Silver machine…. Followed by….you guessed it, Silver machine.
It turned out that the “band” had only formed a couple of weeks previously and this was the first time they’d played in front of anyone, and Silver machine was the only track they knew! Someone had a boom box in their car, so it was decided that we’d link it up to the band’s PA and play whatever tapes we could find, but the band wouldn’t leave the stage and wouldn’t let us use their amp unless we agreed to let them play for a while longer. After an hour of Silver machine on repeat they were lucky to get out alive!
Strangely, it’s a happy memory.
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23 hours ago, Ag100 said:
A bit more done, fitted the metal panels to the roll cage, fitted the front suspension and mounted the motor in the gearbox mount, this really is a great little thing to build.
Ooooh! You’ve gone brushless! No rush, not getting mine til April but I WILL be asking you where you got this from and what electronics you are using?EDIT
Lol, I should have read further down before replying🤣
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Hi
Have finally decided to sell my bike as it’s just not getting used enough to justify keeping it….. (and I need more RC’s! 🤣)
This is just a toe in the water, it’s going in Autotrader next week but I thought I’d give you guys first dibs.
Its set up for off-road at the mo with knobbly tyres and a small front sprocket (I still have the original sprocket and it’s an easy swap if you prefer higher gearing).
It’s not in showroom condition cosmetically as it’s been kept outdoors and the paintwork has suffered but it’s been serviced regularly and is a solid reliable bike.
It’s fitted with an Akropovic end can, but apart from that and the crash bars it is totally stock.
The pannier rails on the back have been removed since this pic was taken, but I still have the panniers, also for sale.
£3500 ono, WILL take RC’s as part exchange 🤣-
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I STILL haven’t Ebayed these yet. Any takers. Could still do with a decent servo if you want to swap?
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Have fun with your rebuild. 👍
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What did you do to your model today?
in General RC
Posted
You’ll need to spend more than a tenner on paint so if you like the colour scheme of the £52 one that’s probably the cheaper option.
But I’d go for painting your own shell. It can be very satisfying and makes your car that bit more individual.