deprivedoflsleep

The usual response is see what others are running at your club. The general advice I’ve seen is to get the front diff as close to locked as possible without actually locking it, since locked diffs are prohibited at my club. My son’s car is on the standard unsealed diffs. I’m planning to put 500,000cst in the front as that should stiffen it up without leaking. Rear I’ll leave more or less open but might add some more AW grease. The thing with most grease options is they just get flung to the outside of the diff casing and stick, so the diff loosens up over time.

Yes looks like I have the newer one as it has the micro USB port. I used to own one years ago (older version with the mini USB port) and it was rock solid, never had an issue with it. Scroll wheel on this one is looser than I recall from my last one but nit picking really, it will do what we need it to.

As an update to this, after my son's first race it became apparent that the WLToys radio is no use. Aside from the lack of channel reverse, it's also lacking steering dual rate which is causing an issue. Thus I'm pulling it out and replacing with a cheap Flysky GT3C.

I have a HW1060 clone paired up with a WLToys Tx/Rx in my son's TT-02. In order to get forward drive with trigger pull I had to reverse the motor wires, but this means that the ESCs inbuilt Forwards>Brake>Reverse priority is also reversed so now the car just slams into reverse when driving forwards and only applies the brake when running in reverse. I know the answer is swap out the crappy WLToys radio for something with a channel reverse, but as a short term workaround is there any floor in my logic of just splitting the transmitter open and swapping the wires on the trigger contacts for a hardwired channel reverse?

It's a scam, multiple no-name sellers (usually just named Shop091300932 etc) have popped up on Aliexpress selling this particular model and some of the WLToys range at less than half price. What you will actually receive is low end £20ish car. Multiple people on the Quadify facebook group got snagged by this and posted photos of what actually arrived. You'll probably get your money back (especially if you use Paypal), but you won't be getting the car you wanted.

Since when did ‘need’ ever play a part in this hobby? 😉

I’m considering the Fusion SE since they are not far off the cost of a 1080+motor anyway. Although I guess that creates a single point of failure and makes it harder to change motor options later.

Thanks both, I must admit the Carisma’s plucky underdog status is part of its appeal.

Wanting to do a kit build for my first crawler and the shortlist is down to these two. I’ll be adding a bearing kit and steering link upgrade to the cost of the Carisma and the TRX kit can be had for £310ish on discount so the gap between them is about £100ish. I know the TRX is the technically better car, but is it £100 better? I will mainly be using it for crawling rather than trailing. Element and Axial kits have been considered, but once you add body and wheels they are no cheaper than the TRX.

No worries, was worth a punt but appreciate it’s low! GLWS.

Impulse offer of £100 for the Coyote kit?

I’m going back and forwards between the SCA-1E Coyote and the Element Trailrunner (IFS chassis) as they are both sub £250. Element is a more modern design but I‘m not sure about the IFS front end. Not sure I can fault the Coyote other than wishing it had a longer wheelbase and clear windows. Stupid hobby, I only got back into it a couple of weeks ago with a cheap couple of HBX16889 and WLToys144002 so I could race around with my son. Now I’m shopping for a scale crawler as well as costing up a Kraton EXB build on the side.

As it happens DPD are delivering one to me today. I considered going down the ammo box route, but figured this was worth the extra £40ish outlay.

Sorry to thread hijack - how does the Coyote compare to the Element RC Enduro and FTX Outbacks at a similar price?

Thanks, exactly the kind of info I was after. Have being reading around and much of what you have said is on the money. I still reckon they are a good deal at £179, but not as an upgrade platform, just as a tough brushed basher with decent spares support.

I’m considering one of the 2wd Vorteks at £179 as they seem reasonable value. The jump to the BLX models seems a bit steep, especially when the ESC and motor combo anecdotally have a few issues like throttle lag and motor bearing failure. Since I’m just getting my feet wet again (I had one of the Hobbyking Nitro Circus trucks years ago), I’d rather not commit big money at this stage. As far as I know, aside from 4wd and the brushless setup the Boost cars are only missing camber adjustment and metal gears over the BLX, so if I did want to upgrade I can choose my own power train and add in the 4wd kit later. Any major weakness I’m missing or better value alternatives? The Associated MT10 was just about on the list but their prices are well into the £300s now, perhaps they will drop as the V2 model starts filling shelves. Not interested in anything Traxxas. The brushless FTX/Maverick range comes in cheap, but I’m not convinced its any good.

I'll preface this post by saying I'm a bit of a noob to RC so take what I say with a fist of salt... My friend has an Invictus which he's owned for 4 months or so. He's admittedly a little ham fisted, but he's sufferred a lot of failures ranging from a blown ESC, several eaten dog bones, cracked hub carriers and snapped body posts. He's also on his second shell after the first one disengrated. From a driving perspective (and again it's the only MT I've driven) it's certainly very quick on 2S, but I find it's not much fun. The servo is a bit slow/under powered for the huge MT wheels so it's a chore to get it to turn in and I find I have to stab the throttle to get it to bite. Paradoxically, once it does turn it's all too quick to traction roll on grippy surfaces. I confess that could well be technique and/or setup. By contrast I bought a Hobbyking Basher SCT around the same time. So far no breakages bar a missing C-clip and a bent dog bone and both myself and my 5 year old son have given it some fair abuse in the form of BMX tracks, jumps, gravel car parks and soaking wet winter driving. It also drives far better in my mind than the Helion, easily provoked into big 4 wheel drifts and jumps nicely for a big shelled truck. That said, it is noticeable slow on 2S compared the the Helion.

Yeah I've seen that video before, his review was the clincher in getting one. I'll see what ESC comes in mine, might tack a better one onto my shopping cart of spare parts if it's the 35a unit. There is a thread on another site where a guy used half a drinks bottle as an internal cover if that's what you're aiming for: http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_14179945347408&key=8a24c98a696b4e5723db293f62190b87&libId=dc588522-7dea-4116-a2a8-d896d091d44e&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rcgroups.com%2Fforums%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D2058785%26page%3D7&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fstatic.rcgroups.net%2Fforums%2Fattachments%2F3%2F7%2F6%2F3%2F6%2F0%2Fa6926879-41-DSCN4313.JPG&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rcgroups.com%2Fforums%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D2058785%26page%3D8&title=Nitro%20Circus%20Basher%20SCT%20%2B%20Turnigy%20Trooper%204x4%201%2F10%20Brushless%20%26%20Nitro%20-%20Page%207%20-%20RC%20Groups&txt=

Probably come to around

Hello Trev, it's certainly good value - I have one arriving next week, just need to hunt down a few more bits for it as like you I'm starting from scratch after ditching RC some years ago. Have you replaced the oil in your diffs yet?

Payment now sent, many thanks.

I will take for asking price please. Assume its complete with cables etc?