stevo2551

I usually do stay away from trees but this particular one jumped out at me this time. I'm led to believe that my slipper clutch is to tight, but if I slacken it off a little bit more then it doesn't go through the gears as it should, doesn't wheelie and slackens the nut off completely...even with tocktite on

I have the savage x with a 5.9 engine and 3 speed box, off the top of my head I'm running 17/18t clutch bell and 47t spur gear. Virtualy every time I go out bashing I manage to strip a plastic spur gear. Admittedly it spends a fair amount of time on it's roof, but I'm checking the mesh and for movement of the engine each time. Last time out I had a low'ish speed head on with a tree and it broke one tooth, carried on and after a while it stripped the 2 next to the already gone one. Then they all stripped lol

Thanks, I think it was 40 delivered, probably not the best buy if parts are hard to come by

Thanks guys, one of his eBay gambles with no pic or description lol are they any good?

As above, my friend bought it off eBay yesterday and has no idea what it is and neither do I from the pics. Any ideas would be much appreciated...

Managed to get a crafty hour up here yesterday evening

Went out for a mad hour last night up at the quarry with the newly rebuilt trophy, but the savage ran faultlessly for a chance undo I decided to keep the flux all nice and clean...chicken...I know haha but I've lost the rear body mount somehow so wasn't running it without it's shell

They're on offer at most model shops at the moment, almost half price...

The only problem with monster trucks is they have a habit of rolling over, and it's never usually when it's at your feet either. I have a savage x and I seem to spend half my time going from place to place turning it back over at regular intervals :-D

Some wraps are better than others though, 3m are usually a good quality and hold up ok to scratches, I DoD mi e with some red fibre wrap and it scratches quite easily. All the time I spent doing the chassis, shock tower and other bits and I get the feeling I'll be stripping it back down and removing it before long...

my old yokomo gt4r

After a bit more tinkering and fettling I've managed to eradicate the binding problem altogether. Ran a couple more tanks through the 'r' the other day, not sure how to tune the rotary carb yet I'll have a look on good old Google next time I take it out. A couple more pics, not ran it with this shell on yet...don't want to scratch it haha

I rand said model shop today and they say they've pre-ordered them for before Christmas, but as yet they still don't have a name for it...

I was thinking of getting one to play in the house with but after seeing a couple of videos of them, they're insanely fast for the size and a wee bit too quick for my livingroom...

for cleaning I use a stiff paintbrush, toothbrush, gt85/wd40 and a rag, or if I take it to work I'll give it a good blow off with the compressor (lazy clean)

Anybody seen or heard anything on this? I was in my local model shop a couple of weekends ago and the ftx rep was in there doing a demo of this, it looks pretty smart and does some cool things, but I can't find anything on the interweb about it, or even find it for that matter...

There's nothing wrong with vintage rc's, I've got 2 old yokomo touring cars from about 2000 and they're stupidly fast and handle great, if you can still find parts or you have spares anyway then resurrect them and put them to good use rather than bin them...

Pm's sent to mydoddy and daz :-D

Done about as much as I can for now, need a plastic front bumper, front shock tower, front lower arm pins, and finally a pair of rear shock shafts and it's all good to go again...

Started on the rebuild today, went from a rather bent chassis (camera doesn't do it justice) to a nice new one from our very own dazp And a little bit more done maybe do the front end later on...

I may be getting confused here, but does the carb not slide in and out as normal, the rotary part/name comes from the way it opens? A normal carb is pulled open by the servo from the end, whereas a rotary has an anti clockwise turn to the hangle, which in turn slides the carb open... that's my understanding of them, I have one on my yokomo

Solved, or should I say greatly reduced the binding problem I was having, there wasn't/isn't quite enough adjustment for the rear brake mechanism to have enough free play through the throttle action. I think a slightly longer connecting rod might do the trick, but only one way to find out... a couple of pics of them both before I swapped the engines and layshafts over And a little bit of a stripdown... I'll add some more up to date pics when I next go in the man shed there doesn't seem to be many active owners out there on here or any other forums really which is a shame as it's a fantastic peice of kit

Done this a few times with the savage, carry it to the bash spot only to break the cord second pull. I'd stick with the pull start though as it's less to weight to carry. Since fixing it with some off eBay I've had no problems, can't remember the name but they say if you snap it they'll replace it for free

had a good bash up at the quarry today with my brother, plenty of crashes and laughing at each other running from end to end to re-flip the cars, then I had a heavy landing followed by some cartwheels and chewed the spur....again. And within minutes I looked round to see my trophy flying through the air and landing in a heap, one bent chassis and bent front and rear driveshafts after a quick field inspection :-D

I picked up a savage with a 5.9 and 3 speed up for