Zombi

Sorry, I also meant the SR410, whatever it is that came came with my controller - I didn't realise it was waterproof already so gave it a good dousing all the same Except for the RX8, I've only ever done mine the once, but to be safe go with what Shaun says. I only did the RX8 twice because I had to get it up once as I was messing with it, so decided to clean it and reapply. I recently bought some of this stuff from eBay, it's called Silicone Conformal Coating. You apply it with a brush, let it dry, and you never have to reapply it again. It's what industry uses to waterproof commercial electronics apparently. The next time I need to waterproof something, I'll give it a try. So if you're looking for something that might not be as easy as CX, but will just need doing once, give it a bash.

Would you not prefer a kit over the RTR? They generally come with upgraded gear in them is all.

Nah, it's never been fully watertight. I'm confident the bottom hatch is watertight, but it's the bit in the tub where the wires feed through that clearly can't be waterproof - that lets in some degree of water. I mean, even when submerged for a short period the rx box doesn't fill up, so it's not too bad, but water does indeed get in. The connectors on my wires in the RX were corroding, so i cleaned them up and put CX on them and now they're tip top! I didn't realise the SR400 was already waterproof, in fact I'm sure it's not, so I used CX on that also, there are pics of it on previous pages im sure. As for the BEC, I tipped a load of CX into it before I installed it, and that seems to have taken care of business coz it's not blown, yet You can also use some silicone on the ends instead of CX if it's easier for you? Yeah show us some vids mate. Cleaning a waterproof rig isn't an issue - mine just gets sprayed with the hosepipe, then some WD-40 on the moveables to remove the remaining water - Job's a good en

Any updates for us, Nick?

My choice would be the Honcho or the Ascender. Probs the Honcho though, as there's a huge range of spares and upgrades for the SCX-10.

I contacted them and sent them some pics, so we'll see if they come through for me. They've always been good in the past, so I'm hopeful. And I bagged me a Vanquish Bell Crank from CKRC last night. Because of the rewards scheme they do and the points i've built up, I got it for free

Is anyone getting push notifications from Tapatalk yet? It's been a week now and still nothing for me.

Big drive, but you'd always be welcome to come join us. I post up in the below area of the forum when we have meets, so keep your eye on that if you do fancy it some time. http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forum/167-gowtt/

Yeah!!

Wow, that sucks!

It's definitely because it's split in half, the bearing just isn't snug. Good call on the 100% guarantee - i'd forgotten about that!! I'll be emailing them shortly. The trip to Bradgate Park today was super, and the Gorilla performed fantastically - I've really missed driving it. It was a right crowd pleaser too, so people coming up to asking about it, and the other trucks. I didn't get many pics, and only of a small group of us. There were at least 10 trucks there!

Great day out with approx. 10 trucks. I only got a few pics though I'm afraid...

CANCELLED!!! Sad times...

Final call!

When I last used the Gorilla some months back, it was making that dreadful clicking noise again when under heavy breaking. So during the strip down this weekend I once again got the front end off for an inspection. It really is never a pleasure to work on that front diff. Anyway, when i waggled the centre drive shaft with my fingers there was a lot of play at the pinion end of things. Not back and forth as the shim was taking care of that, but from side to side. So my suspicion was a blown bearing in the bulkhead. Turns out it wasn't a blown bearing, but more that the inner bearing itself was able to move about in its slot. The GPM bulkhead wasn't holding it place firmly enough, which is odd because it never used to do that I'm sure. The screws holding it together weren't loose or anything, and after a big clean up and reassemble it was still the same. So in short, ditched the GPM bulkhead and gone back to the stock plastic and now there's no play in it at all. Oh well live and learn.

Aye, 200 beans for the dual arm. So tempted though...

Wow, that's actually pretty superb. I've tried several helping hands tools out, and they all have significant drawbacks (much as the guy talks about), but this looks like it rakes care of a lot of them. I'm tempted to bag a dual arm, but at $199 it's pretty steep. Good job I just got my bonus through

I had have similar too, when I go see the thread i made here, there's a bunch of random preview pics showing in tapatalk:

Advice on electrics for 3S - go 35T brushed for the motor, and get a smaller pinion than 20t to convert high speed to high torque. For the speed controller, there's a whole world of options out there which will be governed by your budget.

Still no push notifications from Tapatalk - I'm waiting patiently though...

Ordered some of these Ottsix Voodoo KLR tyres, silver compound. 9 pairs on their way here after a few of us clubbed together to split the high shipping costs. If they're as good as my U4 tyres, we're onto a winner!

Ah VP, always answering my prayers. No more snapped bellcrank arms Just need to wait for these to get in at CKRC and I'll swoop in. http://www.vanquishproducts.com/yeti-bell-crank-black-anodized/

Flat top give a wider viewing angle, I wish I'd known about them when I did my Yeti rear lights, I'd have used those instead. Turning your lights on and off via the transmitter isn't as easy as just plugging the lights directly into an RX channel i'm afraid - you need a controller for it. On my SCX-10 build thread you'll see an example of one. On my Yeti I have one too, but it's different from the norm as it uses power from the battery, not RX, as I need the full voltage from 3S to power my VP lights.

Open that open and amaze Book1.xls

A good rule of thumb though, the amp draw for standard LEDs will be about 20mA. And for forward voltage, red yellow and orange are around 2v, the rest are 3v. You also need to take into account the voltage you're sending to the LEDs. I made a small table for myself in XLS, I'll try and post it here. I might have already posted in my Mud Pig build thread though. I forget!