nr73

If only the first one had come up a month ago when I put up a WTB! Great little basher for someone there. I'd be tempted for my lad but my missus would kill me.

I got a HPI Plazma supplied with my savage xs (all secondhand) and it charges and balances very easily compared to the nano techs. Likewise my Gens Ace balance nicely and end up 4.20 / 4.20. The Nano's are always something like 4.20 / 4.12 / 4.13 and take an extra 500-900ma during that last balance but it does take an eternity to complete.

I've had them where a 2s has one cell at 4.1v and the other at 3.3!

I have ended up with about 6 nano tech packs, 2s and 3s. While they do perform very well, they can take an age to balance. 15 minutes to charge a 5000mah pack from storage charge is fine, but the 200 minutes to get it balanced is a bit much!

It came with one of those Dusty covers

My XS turned up today, secondhand off this fine forum Only run it for a few minutes up and down the street on 2s but it's impressing me so far.

The wheels (not sure what type they are) have tabs that protrude out beyond the tyre and rim. Any scuffs will take place here first, however it looks like the plastic underneath is white rather than black and that's what you can see in the photos. It's nothing that a black marker wouldn't sort out.

Bump Proline road rage wheels/tyres and ho bao's still for sale

Even considering you've had to replace the motor & ESC I still think you got a great deal on that, those chassis components and shocks are worth plenty on their own. Enjoy!

That's nothing that a quick modification won't sort out!!

Good idea with that project box. Looking nearly finished now by the looks of it! Been thinking about the scout chassis today...thinking about making a chassis that's as narrow as possible and the main limiting factor seems to be the motor and transfer case. Must be why most of the comp crawlers seem to use motors on the axle. I'd like to get the shocks laid down a little more so the chassis can twist and contort really easily.

They're strong and fast, fiddly to work on though. I've got one coming in a few days.

I'm not from teeside but I do work in team valley regularly so will keep an eye on this.

I've had good results with the Hobbyking 45A X-car ESC, only cost about

Looking for some motor/ESC advice for my new Lunchy I've got sitting around an XL-5 ESC from my Slash, and the 12T motor that went with it. I think it's a safe bet to fit the XL-5 ESC in place of the Hobbyking X-car 45A ESC I have in there at the moment, not for any real benefit other than it's waterproof and the 45A has a crawler mode so that can go into my Scout crawler. I was then going to get the tamiya sport tuned motor which I've had good results with in one of my buggies, but I wonder if it's worth trying the 12T Titan in there? I'm not bothered about top speed, but I do want wheelies and plenty of them. With the less torquey and faster 12T would I lose the wheelies? Would the sport tuned be a better bet, or even one of the tamiya super stock motors?

I was once working in Belper, Derby (120 miles from home) when the snow came down thick and fast. By the time I finished the job there was 8" snow covering everything and I had to wipe snow off several car number plates in the car park before I found my car. Got going ok and before I had made it out of Derbyshire is passed not one but two police defenders in the ditch! In the end I made it home fine. What was I driving? A 106 Rallye!!

Mine in the post above (gold lunchbox) was stock with the yellow wheels. I used tamiya primer first then Matte black, came out really nice.

Yep. And by the time I've run 1 or 2 packs through it, usually I've busted something and need to call it a day!

To be honest I run nano tech 5000mah, and while there is unused space in the battery boxes I get about 20-40 mins runtime. At that point it's probably best to let the motor and esx cool anyway.

My hex kit was in the spares that came with the savage, not sure what make they are. The tie rod at the rear is needed because the same plastic hubs are used front and rear, so they just keep it locked in place. Presumably the turnigy delete version is just a different design that isn't designed to pivot like the steering hubs are. Just one velcro strap on each battery box is all it takes.

I should do those tie rod deletes as I have one on the right that keeps popping off every now and then, but honestly I have more trouble with the pinion and wheels coming loose than anything else, and even that's not been much hassle once I used threadlocked and fitted a 17mm hex kit. I'd just replace stuff that breaks. Mine has cartwheeled down the road at 40mph and not broke anything, they are tough trucks. Btw I removed the rubber useless clips on the battery trays and just have a velcro loop around it, problem sorted.

If it's a 4s pack it won't be of much use to you in the savage flux, unless you're going to do some rewiring. It will run either 2 x 2s packs in series to give 4s or 2 x 3s to give 6s.

That looks superb so far, can't wait to see this finished. Been thinking about how I would make a crawler chassis if I did one sometime. I wouldn't go for a scaler type setup, it would be more spidery crawler type chassis. Anyway keep the updates coming, great job!

Now sold.

Some quality ranting going on here, keep it up chaps....as you were...