behappy2755

Ok, wheels have two main measurements, the diameter of the wheel, and the size of the hex. Measure the diameter of the plastic wheel, (not the rubber tyre), this is measured in inches. Most cars have 2.8. The hex is the little thing that joins the wheel to the axle. Measure it's diameter in millimeters.

Is the engine just revving low, or does it rev fine, but the car doesn't move?? If it has low RPM's, it's your tuning. (factory isn't that accurate) If the engine is running ok, but the car wont move, check your clutch shoes, and differentials.

I used to go bashing at this large car park to the playing fields, and a guy came along and said I need 'public liability insurance'. #bureaucracy

Ok, what a relief, I have it that way already.

Ok, you might not need the failsafe. It depends if your receiver has one built in already. Flysky's rx's have failsafes. Fuel filter doesn't help much, it only disturbs your fuel flow and pressure. And you might not want a temp gauge because it isn't that necessary.

If I am looking at the engine clutch facing me, and pullstart away from me, my engine rotates counter-clockwise. Should I put my 3 clutch shoes facing counter-clockwise too? So that the top one is facing LEFT from it's corresponding flywheel stick thing??

Yeah, I thought it might be a shim issue, so I took some out, but it still wants to do it a bit. I'll go for the thread lock idea. Also, does it matter which way the clutch shoes are facing?

It's getting quite annoying. I have taken the engine assembly out 10 times in the past few days just to get to the clutch. The screw that holds the clutch bell down, at the end of the crankshaft keeps moving out. It seems to happen when I pull on the starter, because I check it well before I put the engine in again. The thread on the screw is normal. I have recently bought some new clutch shoes and springs, and a clutch nut. These seem to fit fine. Any ideas?

After run oil is a protective oil for your engine, similar to what you get in the fuel itself, but with more protection. Air filter oil is a special sticky substance, and it helps remove moisture from the air filter. Even though the AF is a fine sponge, it can get rid of dust, but not water, and the oil removes the water. Do not attempt to use one for another purpose.

Assuming that everything is the same, (eg. engine, weather, GP...), and engines are perfectly tuned for their fuel, do you think that higher grade fuel runs cooler or vice versa??

Yeah, you're correct, it's probably vapour lock. This is when the engine overheats, and the pressure in it is higher than the fuel line pressure (which is lower than the fuel tank pressure anyway). Simply, the fuel doesn't want to go to the carb. This means that you're too lean. Try to richen your HSN. If you continue to have this problem, it means that there is a fault in your fuel delivery system- pressure. Make sure all your fuel lines are up to standard, and that the fuel tank is well sealed. Also, you might want to take the exhaust off and clean the inside, or buy a better exhaust. Lastly, some people might say a higher grade fuel has cooler running temps, I'm not sure myself.

Is the drive gear well fitted against the spur gear? If it is too far away, it can slip sometimes and rattle.

They are in Poland, and probably in the rest of Europe too! They are also called 'LAYS' and not 'Walkers', it's the same brand though.

What do YOU think? Vote in the poll, comments below!

^^ Wow, these seem quite good. Also, in the top two's descriptions on MSUK it says "powerful 9g steering servo" lol

#FindingNemo

Alright, I give up on the GP idea. At first I thought that the engine was broken in already, but that depends on what you mean by broken in. Do what jizwiz says.

Or maybe the GP is broken?

Yep, LSN is too lean - cutting on sudden WOT. (Just to let you know- you're spelling 'idle' wrong)

That GP/fuel combo seems ok... that's 1 issue down

ha, I thought it said bits and boobs.

I got one, but I'm using it, and it's very precious to me. What's broken??