behappy2755

Yeah, that's fine. When the car went in, it started steaming from the engine block (I presume that's good as it would prevent water damaging the engine for now). Right after I got it out, I checked the AF to see if water went in carb- it did. I squished the excess out of the AF sponge, and wiped it on my shorts. Then I started the engine after a few tries, and it gurgled a little bit, and lost power, but that soon disappeared and it was running fine. However, suddenly the receiver lost power, and the car went zooming away up a hill. I checked the connection- nothing, so I took apart the receiver box and found a little swimming pool. Cleaned it up a little bit and it ran for a while again. And it did a run away again. Would that be the rx or the batteries? When I got home I took the car apart, cleaned the engine with fuel, and poured loads of after run oil inside. Then I took everything of the chassis, and cleaned that with a low pressure hose coz it was muddy. I took care not to aim it directly at the diff gearboxes. I dried it off. Then I sprayed vulnerable bits with WD40 I'm guessing I'm fine then?

Short story- went bashing, drove into puddle that was half way up on the car. Please tell me what I should do- 1. RIGHT NOW 2. Soon 3. extra maintenance I have started already with what I know, but I want to make sure I dont forget anything.

Take a pic of the diagram and show please.

Vote what you think, comments below.

click it for bigger picture

What? anthoop, the forum's most helpful member uses FM radios?! I'm really surprised!

Hahaha, what is that meant to be?!?! Yeah, it's cool- but I really don't see the point of 4 separate tracks. And front wheel style steering instead of reversing track directions like in tanks! Oh, and we'll add a tyre to the back! I see someone has run out of ideas... cool rear diff btw

When you put it back with a new spur, tighten it, then run the car across the ground with your hands. If it makes a grinding noise, then it is too close, and if it doesn't then push your finger against the clutch bell, this should stop the car. If it makes snapping noises when the teeth slip one by one- it's too loose.

Maybe the engine was slightly misaligned, causing the clutch bell to fit badly against the spur. If the clutch bell was slightly too far away, it could have started to strip the spur when breaking or accelerating.

Do you have the manual? If not, find one online or something- it should provide a diagram and part number.

Very clever way of thinking about it. The problem with your explanation is that when the engine fires there is high pressure in the burn room, and not low. This is because of the explosion. Read slowly and you'll understand- The fuel gets sucked into the crank case at the bottom of the engine block when the piston is going up- think of it as a syringe. Then, the crankcase port is closed (to stop the fuel going back into the carb) and the piston comes down. This creates high pressure in the crankcase. The very high pressure in the burn room (after the explosion) is quickly released through the exhaust port, because this port opens first. Soon after, the intake ports (fuel ports) open up letting the high pressure fuel mixture to be released into the burn room. Keep in mind that the piston is still coming down at this time, helping the fuel to enter the burn room. To prevent the fresh mix from making it's way out through the open exhaust port, the exhaust pipe is specifically shaped to reflect the fumes backwards, so that they can rush back and push the escaping fresh mix back into the burn room. The piston comes up, closing the ports, and pushes the mix against the burning GP- BOOOOMM!! The heat released in the explosion re-ignites the GP, for the next stroke. The process starts again. So just like TC said- the lost compression would have caused a lower pressure in the crank case- which would make it difficult for the fuel to enter the burn room. This would therefore make priming the engine useless.

Oh, make sure you put the piston in correctly. It has a curvy, uneven bottom side, the longer two sides should be facing the sides of the engine block. Watch a YouTube vid on this if u dont understand.

So it turns over fine, and fuel gets in, but it doesn't start?!? Try your idle screw maybe, check your exhaust? Also, sorry to repeat it so much but try another GP, seems to be the most logical problem.

Take it apart before you chuck it.

Have you charged your glow starter???

Dont try to pull the carb slide out btw. But like others said, the arm that attaches the servo to the carb is just attached to a ball- it pops off with a little bit of force. (i like to twist it too)

hope this image works click it for larger image

Rotary carb is where the carb opens by twisting the carb valve. To find out if yours is a rotary or slide turn on the radio system and move the throttle. You will see the carb move. If it is a twisting motion then rotary, or if it slides out and in it is a slide carb. The engine should fit ok without changing parts. If it doesn't you can see what is misaligned, and buy some parts. If it really doesn't fit then you can always return it within a month or something.

Air dog is better.

Yeah, it gives you higher top speed. If you fit it properly it is worth it, but there has been many people on this forum where one of their gears doesn't work. It's most common that the second gear doesn't want to engage, but that doesn't affect the first.