Schumach3r

Thats not a turbo, its a supercharger. Turbo's sacrifice power to gain power by spinning a turbine with the exhaust gasses to speed up the air flowing into the engine which increases the volume of air that is burnt. What you have their is more of an electric supercharger that just blows more air in at much lower pressures. you just bolt it between the air filter and the inlet manifold.

Welcome to the forums mate

you could use them motors and throw them away after a few sets of brushes. But you could save in the long run and buy a better re-buildable one that you can skim and clean etc.

Took the rascal out for a bit of a bash today and half destroyed another bodyshell Jumps were a bit crap, but i uploaded the video anyway http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2RKQU69nbA Tom

i think he means fix the punctures. How come you just can't slap a patch on, i think my current inner-tube has at least 3 or 4 patches on it.

i'm not always right, its you thats always wrong i jsut like to prove a point, i don't even know why you would want to put nitro cleaner in your engine, i've forgotten what was said, but common sense says, if nothings present, nothing can do harm, whether it removes the existing lubrication or not, as already stated fuel will go in and re-lube it before it even combusts for the first time as everybody knows the fuel goes it through the crank case anyway.

ta for the backup

how does it cause wear to the engine, nitro cleaner doesn't dissolve cast aluminium. Nor can it eat bearings if they arn't moving.

i guess i could if your after some.

You don't seem to be listening I've just said aslong as there's none left in the engine when its run, it will be fine. Engines are dry from the factory, its not a 4-stroke, it will get lubrication as soon as it starts running from the fuel, that's why the bearings arn't sealed. You could pour coca-cola in there, lager, you could even [CENSORED] in it, but if its not there when its running its not gonna matter is it.

buy the looks of it, it was banned in July 2006. lol. That means i can sue Eggborough if i ever get lung cancer

exactly, its a solvent mate, thats why it removes grease etc. and evaporates to leave things clean. If you want to pour it in your engine for any reason it won't harm it, aslong as its all gone before you run it.

If it was banned it would be taken off stock and destroyed, then again, maybe not. Lead free solder sometimes has an effect on the tips of irons aswell, i was once on an electronics course and the tips of the irons started to deteriorate on all the brand new gas irons due to lead free solder So AFAIK you can still get leaded solder, but i could be wrong

Weak because they are quenched to make them hard, but this also makes them brittle, stick with metal pinions and plastic spurs i say

i just use 60/40 tin/lead stuff works fine, and more importantly, i can get it from work

if you get some spiked tyres on it, it would be ace. I put some on the back of my rascal and it looks like a 4wd the way it climbs up dirt.

Its just a solvent cleaner, it will probably evaporate in no time at all, wouldn't suggest running the car on it though

i'll take you in the escort, the exhaust popping and burbling will turn a few heads. And if that doesn't, 1200W RMS of pure sub power and Run DMC will

Just remember its only a tamiya. Plastic chassis melt and so do plastic Tamiya battery connections when you draw high amounts of current...speaking from experience here

and motor... nice shell though

not quite as good as my leccy garage floor drifting

give us a pic mate

Another silly bugger that doesn't run with a shell

I agree with Ziggy, the carb position shouldn't affect priming. All the pressure line does is use the exhaust pressure to push fuel into the carb hence why you put your finger over the end so all the pressure when turning it over quickly primes it. ...or not in some cases

pics...yes plz