nitro_maniac

Sounds like your clutch mate. Also the turn will be to do with the set up, not the engine as the cars are identical! My mate has a .21 rtr version and altho the run in process is boring, its now very nippy! mike

The spider diff is worthwhile. The fancy alloy purple bits are a waste of money, and the quad brakesi dont know about, but my two discs work fine, and if you are having problems with the brakes buying craddock discs would be a much better and cheaper thing to do. So buying that package i would say no . If you want a spider diff, i bought one off eBay for about £25 i think, although i only bought it because my old one stripped. And they come with nasty grease inside, which shouold be replaced by oil. mike

dont forget CNC steering knuckles. Hyper 8 ones fit as well as the upgrade hyper 7 ones. They are cheap off eBay.

take the pressure pipe off the tank (not whilst running) and blow down it. If you can't blow through it then the pressure inlet nippleis probable blocked. When i got my hyper 7 the standard pipe that came with it had a blocked nipple. It took me ages to figue out what was wrong with it, and why it would stall as soon as i reved mike

? 1/2 metric 1/2 imperial? i thought they were all imperial like the buggy mike

or Bolton Model mart. They do free shipping and are very fast, and if you have a problem they are very helpful. I recommend them highly mike

i've heard a lot of bad things about the orion mike

ok mate im not an expert on rush's but i thought people said they had stripped gears with the standard engine. someone put a STS .28 in one mike

yeah but if your not doing huge jumps then it shouldn't e.g. racing. Thats what the shocks are for mike

put a few shims on the motor mount. They shouldn't bottom out under normal bashing conditions mike

don't put a nsram .18 in a rush evo. If people are stripping gears with the stock engine then the nosram will just rip the gearbox to shreds mike

Wait for the losi 8ight-T! or Mugen MBX5T or the tried and tested CRT mike

looking at his profile thing i would say he has a XT2 mike

Update on my hyper 7. Added a Kyosho MP777 radio box. Drilled a couple of holes in the chassis and voila a much improved radio box (now i dont have to cable tie the battery on the outside ) mike

I always check eBay first, its a lot cheaper. e.g. A 7075 alloy front chassis brace is £15 from Bolton Model Mart and a rear 7075 alloy chassis brace is £15 from bolton model mart. I think JE spares is similar in price. I got a new pair of them off eBay for £12 inc postage. Similarly the CNC knuckles are £30 from Boltons, and i got them for £15 off eBay, inc postage. mike

You should replace all your bearings at least once a season. And keep your wires tidy or you'll have the spur gear sawing them in half mike

go for a hyper 7 tq, Hyper 8 rtr or Hong nor X1-CR RTR mike

yeah. I dont own one but apparently the RTR version is a pile of poo. There is a review of the SS version in the current maxbashing mag. Looks good to me, and at £315 its nicely priced too mike

Get a alluminium racing steering set. But mind that you get a proper tamiya one, not anything else because some of the other ones (like GPM Racing) don't have ball bearings in them so makes it a pretty pointless hop up.

that happened to me (touching the throtle stalled it)...turned out the nipple where the pressure line goes onto on the pipe was blocked. Something worth checking. Take the pressure pipe off the tank andand blow through it...If you can't blow through it then its blocked mike

ok cheers. vid looks awesome. What gear mesh do you use? Im not to good on gears mike

ok. I don't think you should be running 5% for break in (or at any other time). I think 5% is plane fuel or something...not normally used for cars. The lowest for cars is usually 16% (well thats what .12 engines run). What does the manual say? My manual said 15/16% on break in and 15-25% normal running. mike

ok thats good then. What fuel are you using? mike

the shell in your link is sooo nice. My mate has that shell...he painted it like on the box and it looks lovely..but he never uses it because its so nice! mike

if the noise goes away when you loosen the glow plug this might mean that either you have a glow plug that is too long, or you need more head shims...i think...someone correct me if im wrong have you changed the glow plug since you got the engine or have you done anything to it? what % fuel are you using? mike