Luke B

The original bearings should fit as the new hubs should be identical apart from the material. They might need some "persuasion" to get them out of the original hubs though, it depends how firmly wedged in they are.

I don't know exactly but I'm guessing it's one of these: http://www.hspracing.com/product.asp?catid=508 Most of the parts fit more than one model though, I expect the hubs are the same on the MT, XT, SC and so on. If you can find a part that looks the same as the standard one (apart from being aluminium obviously) it'll almost certainly fit, just make sure it looks exactly the same.

I've used the HSP upgrades on my original Strada MT, I got them from here: ">http://>

It's not that it's not legal, it's just that it isn't strong enough. One bad landing and most of the axles will snap, I'm a bit fed up of seeing wheels flying off and knowing I'll have to wait for new parts before I can put them back on again! I haven't fixed the Optimus yet so I'm trying not to break any more cars for the time being.

I don't have any track-worthy cars at the moment, only the Maverick is working which can barely survive that ramp I made, let alone a track!

Yes it is a bit far! Let us know when you're coming down, hopefully we'll have some more members by then!

If anyone's interested the next race will be on 31st August.

Cornwall Bashing Club's gone a bit quiet recently, so I reckon it's time for another meet-up. Anyone got any suggestions for a time and/or place? I'm happy to meet at the Cardinham track again but it would be good to find new locations as well. I'm free any time at the moment as it's still the summer holidays. So, any ideas?

On the right hand side of the grey bar near the bottom.

I don't expect so, I imagine the next race will be two weeks after the show this weekend, so 31st August. That's not for definite though, as soon as I find out I'll put it on here.

Which one?

There's usually a mix. If there are enough of each we race separate classes but we usually race them all together. This sometimes leads to a friendly argument over nitro vs electric, I like to think electric is winning! ;-)

Just thought I'd let everyone know about CMRC as we're on the lookout for some new members. We meet once a month on a Sunday at Perranporth airfield where we have a permanent off road track and race 1/8 nitro and electric buggies and truggies and 1/5 petrol, there is always lots of help available as well, so if you're new to racing, don't worry! This weekend we will be at the Cornish Steam and Country Fair at the Stithians Showground, with the next race probably being two weeks after that. I don't run the club, I just race there and am trying to get some more people interested. Please don't think I'm trying to steal members from Matty V6's new indoor track or anything like that, I'm just trying to get some interest in CMRC as we need some more members! http://www.cornwallmrc.org.uk/ https://www.facebook.com/CornwallMRC The race dates aren't always up to date on the website but the Facebook page is updated regularly. So if you're interested come and see us at the show on Saturday or Sunday or come along to the next race at the track, I'll put the date of the next race on here as soon as I know for definite when it is. Cheers! Luke

Cheers! It was my first attempt at painting a body shell and I think it turned out quite well!

My Landfreeder: ">http:// ">http:// ">http:// Mods: HPI 55T crawler motor Trimmed steering arms for more steering lock Home-made spacers above the rear shocks to raise the ride height 96mm tyres from Ebay (only in last pic) Metal bushings on shock shafts to limit compression so the bigger tyres don't catch on the body Build thread here if anyone's interested: http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/193115-cc-01-landfreeder-build/

Yes, I think I'll start taking the bag with me to races, plenty of room for all the stuff for the buggy! I haven't looked much at the charger to be honest, as most of my cars use LiPo and I guessed that charger was made a bit before LiPos came along!

Thanks guys. The diffs aren't locked as it turns out but I was considering turning it into a drifter. The only problem is I don't have anywhere smooth enough to drift on, and I don't really have anywhere to drive it as it is! I might buy some longer shocks and modify the suspension arms a bit to allow it to sit higher. That, plus some rally tyres and it might be able to tackle the awful tarmac outside my house! There were more weights on it but I've taken them all off now to see how it handles as standard. The funny thing is I started this thread to find out what it was but when I took those top weights off the other day I found the Xray T1 sticker underneath them! I'm going to buy a new shell soon as well, I'm thinking a rally Subaru Impreza and some gold wheels to go with it. I might have to turn the throttle end points down as well as it's ridiculously fast on 3S, I'd need a massive area to get to top speed without crashing.

It lives! ">http:// Please ignore the bodged rear body posts, it's all I had lying around!

Yes, I'd go for the more expensive one: higher C rating and more mAh.

Different people prefer different makes of batteries, I bought a Thunder Power 3S LiPo for racing a while back and it's easily the best battery I've bought but I'm not too fussy about manufacturers. Generally though, get the highest C rating you can and more mAh give longer run times. I'd get a 3S or 4S as 2S will be far too slow, actually I'd probably start with a 3S until I was sure the gearing was right before using a 4S to make sure the ESC doesn't get too hot.

Have a read through here: http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/21028-lipo-the-big-guide-thread-updated-march-10/ I'm not sure if it says so in there but LiPos should be stored at 3.8v/cell if they're being stored for more than a day or so. As for a charger, most people recommend this: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-rc6-vsp-80watt-7a-output-ac-dc-charger-with-fan/rc-car-products/379060 I use one and it's perfect for my requirements, will storage charge batteries as well if you want it to. I can't help with the gearing I'm afraid, I'd start with the 19T and go from there. If the motor gets too hot, get a pinion with 2 or 3 fewer teeth.

OK thanks. I don't want to put the body any higher because then you can see the arches of the chassis below the arches of the body and it looks odd. I've put some o-rings on the shock shafts so they can't compress as much and it's better now, not completely fixed though so I'll put some more on later and see how it goes.

No problem!

Higher C rating just means it can discharge faster, might make the car a little bit faster as well. I wouldn't go any lower than 30C, anything higher is just extra protection. A general rule is to get the highest C rating you can, it won't do any harm! Hope this helps!

Fitted new tyres today, woohoo! ">http:// ">http://> How do you stop them rubbing on the body on your blue Landfreeder, John? They keep catching on the wheel arches on anything other than flat ground.