Vr5fx
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Posts posted by Vr5fx
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Yup, still interested. Sent you a message.
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Is this still for sale? Interested.
Could you pop your name on a piece of paper next to the item for sale and post a pic for us please.
I'll take it once photo is up.
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3 minutes ago, wolfie1 said:
Now i think you are onto something there, i just went out and had a look through the settings and it was set to a charge limit of 8000mah, so that would explain a lot, thats reassuring but if im charging a 8400 battery would i need to go in each time and make sure its set to that and set to 10000 for my other batteries?
Set it to it's maximum and see if it changes anything. LiPo chargers know when to stop, this setting is more of a "safety" setting. You can have it set to maximum and still charge any battery capacity normally.
If you had a faulty battery that was leaking voltage, that setting is there so it doesn't just keep charging and possibly cause an unwanted situation, just as an example.
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2 minutes ago, wolfie1 said:
The charger i bought that im having no luck with is a HTRC C240 DUO
Ooo, my bad, I misread above, sorry.
If it's finishing off 0.04v short, thats alright. I have 2 identical chargers, and one of them likes to do this, finishes off slightly short of 4.20
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If it isn't the timer limit, it's the capacity limit. Stock is set to 5,000mAh if I'm looking at the right manual, needs changing up to a higher limit
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Is there a time cutout on the charger? could be hitting the limit on a 10,000mAh pack.
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Changed the motor and ESC, got a max 6 and a 4292 can in it. Motor and ESC much cooler, batteries arn't getting hot either. Thing flies on 6s.
However now the gearbox is cooking, temp gun showed it as 100c. Being plastic that won't last long.
Wheels aren't balanced well, it wobbles like jelly on WOT, so would be nice to find some others that are a similar size, but belted?
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10 hours ago, Jray2955 said:
What are the 2 countersunk holes in the front IRC skidplate for?
Been looking online and can't really see a purpose for them?
4 on the front end, which go through the front kick up and bolts the front end on, and there are the 2 on the wider part, this goes through the chassis. IRC chassis have these holes pre drilled. but for a standard chassis you have to drill these out yourself and put a nut on the inside.
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40 minutes ago, Jray2955 said:
What would cause it to slope down?
Please don't say some something expensive 😆
Front impact, like hitting something or even something simple like taking a tumble.
The back end is so heavy that the front turns into a crumple zone. You can bend the stock parts by hand, so it's bound to happen.
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2 minutes ago, Jray2955 said:
Deal I'll have them if he doesn't pay up.
I think I'll leave it as stock setup just aluminium to remove flex.
Everyone does rave about the setup but I'll stick with what I know.
Should the Y piece be completely flat, as mine slope down at the front?
Should be completely flat.
I'll let you know either way regarding the bits. 😁
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8 hours ago, Jray2955 said:
Yep you were right appears to be a bent Y piece as the 2 pins that hold the steering posts on keep popping out.
Whats considered a good replacement?
I've seen the Carbon Fibre Bone heads one but wasn't sure as to what people consider the best.
Also I'm debating changing the steering servo and perhaps changing the steering set up as the plastic one feels cheap.
I've been looking at either an alloy steering set up or doing a conversion to the push pull system like this:
https://www.rcmodelz.co.uk/upgrades...luminum-sym-steer-push-pull-steering-kit.html
What is your opinion?Never had an issue with IRC gear. I've got a Y plate, skid plate and chassis on Ebay at the moment, current guy has 1 more day to pay up, if he doesn't pay you get first refusal.
The push-pull set up is all a bit meh. It's great while it works, but such a faff to get it "right", broke mine plenty of times.
Part metal setup, with a plastic horn is the way to go I think. Leave the servo horn as a weak point so it breaks before anything else.
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Never had that issue either.
Unless the front end is bent? If the upper plate has a bend, that might affect the seating position for the pins.
Have some pictures of the front end, where you are having issues?
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Did the pinion and spur on the MT1 (over tightened the slipper🥲)
MT2 went home working, although definitely wants some tweaking, gets a horrible speed wobble, and the motor gets pretty hot, it's not meant for speed laps, but I won't accept no for an answer.
So might look at a different motor in the future.
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Bought myself the MT2
Taking it out for the first time today with the MT1 😁
Fingers crossed it doesn't break.
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This is now being split and put on the 'Bay
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I ran the Hyper SS motor mount in my all my STs, just had to shim one end of the diff by about 1mm, to stop the diff from binding.
Had enough swing to put a 1717 in and gear it to the moon.
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22 hours ago, Lopes3d said:
Just out of interest what electric model are you after? I’ve just gone out of petrol to try electric with an Arrma Mojave but much prefer petrol, if you were looking to upgrade
Seen a lot of Arrma, but not used any.
Still got my Hyper MT, so was maybe thinking getting a Hyper 7 or ST to go with it.
If you were thinking of trading, hit me up via PM, and we can see if there is a possibility.
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Massive Baja job lot.
For the sake of the post we are going for spare and repairs.
I've not used any of it in around 3 years, so chances of not mentioning some details are pretty high. 😬
It's been living in my loft since.
Reason for sale.... I fell out of love with the RC scene after I moved house, I want to get back into it but with electric.
The Baja (shorty)
Mostly KM, converted to a shorty with a cut down rollcage to fit.
It's been abused, tumbled, jumped ragged, slapped about, used in full contact sports, so probably in dire need of some TLC.
It runs, tested on 3 year old 2 stroke.
Zenoah 29cc ESP ported head. The bore has slight pitting, it was like this when I bought it. Okay compression.
Not sure if the killswitch is dead, had to disconnect it to start it up.
Throttle servo mounts on one side are broken, so will need a new servo or case.
Will need a new front wheel.
TR Y plate, and IRC kick plate.
The roller
As seen. Chassis has seen better days. has a small crack in it on the front kick and is slightly buckled.
IRC kick plate and Y plate.
All spares/parts
Wheels and tyres
Beadlocks and wheels might not be much good, been jammed with wood screws.
All the tyres look good.
2 engines.
Zenoah 29cc, and I think a KM 29cc, both engines ran last time they were used. The Zenoah was spot on last used approx 4 years ago.
3 carbs.
2 x 1107
1 x knock off
Shock parts
Right hand side pile are all bent.
The rest is all as seen.
No TX/RX
I hope these pics work.....
SPLIT ON EBAY
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2 hours ago, bertberr said:
Thanks 👍
PM Sent
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21 hours ago, bertberr said:
As above, my daughters 1/18 SCT, broken the ears off the top of the front diff case, the ones that hold the front shock tower, and therefore upper links too ☹️ They aren't separate diff cases like most other 1/18 rigs, the upper halves of the diff cases are an all in one unit with the radio tray/rear upper diff case. Tried epoxying it once but just broken again, there you are, crap design really, but hey ho. Only parts available are from German online retailers at £4.50 for the part...and 30 quid postage...!!! Will have to write it off if I can't get anything here.
Thanks
Pretty sure I have one in the loft that doesn't work, I've not seen it for 2 years. I think the switch broke on the transmitter. Not sure how much of it works, cause I'm sure I tried to mod it and didn't get anywhere. I'll go up later and get back to you.
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2 hours ago, Darren Frosty said:
My mate really fancies one of these instead of the normal buggy looking buggies.
Anything to be wary of? I can't find it for sale at the usual shops, is that for a reason? Has it been discontinued? Anyone know about parts availability or if the VSE stuff fits?
Thanks in advance.
I had one a few years ago, as a light scudder, it's fine. But I found bashing it any more than lightly ended up breaking it. Mostly broke the cage, arms and the centre shafts, but I jumped mine a hella lot.
The Hyper Cage buggy, is the same as the Hyper SS buggy, apart from the cage.
If he wants a solid basher, stay away from the Cage...
This is of course, my opinion. 😉
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5 hours ago, Jordannesta said:
Ive had to rebuild the car and now my fuel tank is sitting on the exhaust and is melting, I’ve temporarily tied it up from the screwlid ( where you Refill) so it’s sitting above it, in rebuilding I’ve lost the silver film that was under the tank that reflected the heat from the exhaust but have no idea what it’s actually called so was wondering if anyone knew so I can replace it
also if anyone else has any other general ideas/tips when it comes to the tank melting because of the bizarre design that’d be great
Hey bud.
Where the rollcage holds the fuel tank, wrap electrical tape around it, a few layers should do. It helps hold the tank in place so there isn't any wiggle while you are scudding, it helps keep the tank up and away from the exhaust.
I think what you are looking for is exhaust tape. This stuff. To apply new tape, you'll need to clean the bottom of the tank with rubbing alcohol and a rag , otherwise it won't stay stuck for long
Also might be worth looking at Exhaust wrap. This can be nasty stuff as the fibers can get everywhere. Wear gloves, soak it in water (water stops the fibers floating) and wrap it tightly around the first part of the exhaust that is directly under the tank. To fasten I used wire.
If you use this, just make sure that any cableties or wire snags are on the underside of the exhuast.
There is also a fella on one of the facebook groups that fabricates ally fuel tanks, really expensive, but won't melt.
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Honestly, there isn't a right answer. Buy which you prefer, but you'll need to buy some extras to get the most out the model you choose.
Buy decent 2 stroke oil too, not the cheap stuff.
Chassis brace (as above, we've all ruined a chassis)
front Y plate (pairs with above for added strength)
Killswitch. This is the most important... Never run your models without one.
Driveshaft pin tool - for changing pins (2.5mm or 3mm) in driveshafts
in For RC Sales
Posted
Hey @Candyman
Still sell these? Can't see any on the Bay. 😞