Vr5fx

I was out bashing mine today after maintenance, one of the wheels came off while taking a corner. Took 10 minutes to find the wheel (pretty much flew into a hedge), no sign of the nut and the rim is chewed to pieces (rounded where the hex sits). Quite strange because I know I properly tightened the nuts. And they are checked after every battery. Ordered some new rims, tires, servo and an assortment of spares (including M4 locknuts)... I was going to buy another car, but perhaps not lol. Might start designing the spare body shell.

Same with me. I've lost a few, but they are easily replaceable. I put a few small ones around the steering servo too, makes so much difference in handling keeping the nose down

On 3s my ESC is warm at the most, the motor however gets very toasty. I'm thinking heatsink with the T-bone back bumper to try and shift some heat. Also, get some weights to put on the front bumper. it's pretty unstable on 3s with lack of control.

I bash in a open area normally, so it's 50-100% throttle throughout. I'll look at getting a heatsink and a IR gun to see if that makes a difference. As long as I play it safe like I am at the moment there wont be any side effects. I'll estimate that the temps are around 70-80 centigrade when I give it a break, can touch the barrel for around 3 seconds before the heat sets in.

Could anyone tell me the safe running temps for the motor on the E-Firestorm Flux? (Vektor 4800kv) On 3s the ESC is warm but the motor does get hot to the touch, at which point I do let it sit for 5 minutes just to be safe but would like to know if it could be pushed further. Would an IR temp gun/probe give an accurate reading on a motor? (I know they are used with Nitro)

Perhaps I worded it wrong. I understand that the pinion and spur would need changing, but not sure what would be ideal. Stock is 19/87, what would the recommended change want to be?

I've also got a set of T-bones on the way. One thing I'm not sure on is gearing. I have mainly 2s for mine, but if anyone could share info on how to change the gearing, that would be sweet.

That'll work fine, though you will get more poke with a higher C rating. I advise getting weights and a wheelie bar, as the 'Storm is borderline insane (uncontrollable) on 3s. Weights are to keep the nose down a little more on the throttle increase. Also, if you haven't already you will need this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300893896409

That battery should be fine. Though you might need a 4mm Corally Bullet HXT Adaptor to Deans Connector. ------------------------------------------------ I'm going to get a 3s LiPo for my 'Storm. I was wondering if there are "must buys" to go along side of the purchase? I've purchased various spares and a wheely bar. Because I can see myself pelting into some walls/curbs Could anyone also recommend the biggest "safe" pinion to run on 3s? (Vektor 4800). Thanks!

I greased it as I put it together, so all moving parts in and out the diff were nicely coated. The spring (see original pic) is between the 2 smaller gears on the right hand side. Once this was removed the issue was solved. I think the force of the spring was just a touch too much, as there is only a single washer on either side of the small gears.

A short video, showing the motor and it's potential problems would help identify if there is something wrong.

On a separate note, can anyone link cheap body shells? It doesn't matter on colour or style, as I'll probably spray them, or something like that

Might not be relevant, but I took the spring out of my diff because it became very stiff. I can't roll the car across the floor (no power) with it in.

Do you mean when you turn the motor with your finger it feels clunky approx every 1/8 turn? Mine does this but it runs completely fine, or at least I hope it is running okay like it. I assume it is something to do with the magnets on the motor.....

To the Vaseline? It has many uses! Like sitting on the side doing nothing. [EDIT] I greased the diff and putt it back together to find that it was again, very hard to turn. opened it to make sure it was put together correctly, which it was. I took the spring out and put it together and found that it is now very much smoother... Does the spring normally cause problems?

I'll pick up some Lithium based multipurpose grease from Halfords for now, and will order what you have posted. Thanks for the reply, Stretch. I had the Vaseline ready to go, lol!

I stripped it further, and found a ring indent on one of the washers, so I'm assuming it has been wearing down. I've used 2000grit paper to take it out. The only thing I am missing is grease, would Vaseline work, or should I get a "diff grease" tube from elsewhere? Or use Vaseline until I get other grease? In regards to the amount of grease that was present, there wasn't a great deal. There was more in the center than in the and around the washers

Hoya! My Firestorm arrived today, yaaay! I took it out for a spin, which was epic, I completely love it! I've lost the antenna sleeve and a body clip already, no sign of them anywhere. Anyway, towards the end of my bash, the drive really bogged down and really sounded like it was struggling, anything under 50% power and the motor would just screech without moving. While on the floor I was unable to push the car forward or back, unlike I could when it was out of the box so I'm assuming it is the diff. I've stripped it down and tried the motor which seemed to run okay via the battery (slightly clunky via fingers). I popped out the diff and opened it up (see pic below) The left section really feels like it is grinding, it isn't as smooth as the right sided part. [Edit] Also to note, it is very stiff to turn when together. Would I require a replacement, or could it be an easy repair? However, any input on the possible problem would be sweet. I'm going to have to order some new body pins and a new antenna sleeve. lol. Thanks!

Where in Gillingham do you meet up? I'd be interested to come along and see what is going on. I can't travel so it would have to be in walking distance.

Perfect, just what I was after! thank you

Does the stock E-Firestorm come with a battery? I can't see any relevant info on the store page. thanks.

Well I will be sticking to tarmac for the most part, so maybe the FireStorm would be a good start, fewer parts to maintain, and I won't be racing, unless I can find other RC'ers near here. How much run time would a 5000mAh 2s give? I think going in with a 3s would be a bad idea, for a starter lol.

Ah I see. so 11.1v would be 3s (3 cells)? Does the HPI Savage have any advantages over the FireStorm? Other than being 4WD? And the slightly higher price tag? I'm only querying as I have read that 4WD is far easier to drive than 2WD...

Thanks for the input guys! I may even have a higher budget now, as I will be getting some nice wages coming up, so after rent and bills I will have plenty spare, which is a large plus! It wont be for a few weeks but I shall look into the recommended cars. As an example, the HPI Firestorm; What would recommend for the 3s LiPo battery and charger. And could someone explain what the 1s/2s/3s+ means please? As it makes no sense to me at all. Thank you!

Hiya, I'm new to RC, and would like some help in a first time RC car. I have poked around on other forums and looked around on others more. I would like a off road truggy type, or even a MT type car. I've looked at a few shops but after a while they all blur into one. Unfortunately I have kinda set myself a budget, I don't want to go over