capri-boy

Looking at moving from Nitro to Petrol. A friend has a HPI Baja that he doesn't use so there's a possibility I could get hold of that. Any idea of a fair price for it (assume it's in good used condition, running with no major damage etc) and what I should be looking out for when buying a used HPI baja. Alternatively a KM can be had for

As you've probably done the research... where's the bests to be had for the various KM's please?

bump, offers invited it's gtg.

bump

STS .28v(4.6cc) D28M Nitro engine, bought for my Savage .21 but was advised it would kill the diffs so never fitted. Comes with Pull start as pictured but it will need new screws to mount to the block as they've been lost (was removed to test roto start compatibility). Never ran and always stored in it's box (box a little tatty now). Turns over by hand as you would expect a new engine to. Not sure of value to be honest so I'm asking

thanks, I've read as much info as poss - for me that post was concise! Not interested in taking an old chassis to the max, there for my little un's to learn with - just want to get them running as cheaply as possible. I've never ran electric really, on Nitro, so wanted a sounding board.

Bump, anyone?

If it's too low please say so, I don't want to offend. I'm learning to paint my own shells so price is an issue - plus my savage has been DOAS(helf) for a long time.

Thanks. Trying to resurrect two old TL01's for the boys first RC cars.

Thanks for bumping this, good read. I've been wondering what to do with my old .21 although sourcing the kit now could be a pita. I've a STS.28 (cheeep cheep) sat int he cupboard waiting for it. For about 4yrs.... Nice truck.

WTB - Esc suitable for 1/10 car, 7.2v nimh suitable for a 27t (down to 20 would be beneficial for the future) Tamiya TL01. And / or Tamiya type 3 pin ceramic resistor for MSC (orig / compatible or home made). Please state price plus postage costs. thanks

Hi Folks I've just bought two Tamiya TL01's (One 406 and the other a Alfa 155) locally (Amber Valley, Derbyshire), boxed and sold as running complete with an assortment of batteries, chargers and and radio gear. I've never worked with electric cars before, and so I thought I'd turn to the experts for some help and advice. My intentions are to get the cars running as cheaply as possible and let the mini-me's learn from there. On testing both cars do indeed run although the following is evident: Car A: 1. One front wheel spins without spinning the drive shaft - new wheel hub needed. 2. Front shocks 'stick' when rebounding - springs are good however Car B: 1. Motor only runs at one speed fwd and reverse - and then only at the furthest throttle position. On comparison with Car A the speed seems to be about the middle of the 3. Motor smokes a little (dust?). Both sets of radio gear (vintage stick type) work perfectly (and look new and unused), as do the chargers but all the batteries are shot - 2 reach enough volts to test the cars for a few minutes, the rest are DOA. Basic repairs: Car A I can sort the wheel hub out, it's familiar to me from my savage. I'm assuming the shocks aren't oil filled and that the piston is sticking - presumably they can be stripped down and cleaned? Car B: By elimination and swapping parts from Car A the ceramic resistor seems to be shot. What I can't understand is why the motor runs slowly but only in the fastest throttle position. With Car A's resistor the motor seems to run fine. I can't check the motor further as one of the long mounting screws has a stripped head and i'm reluctant to try and drill it out at this point. On looking it seems that replacement MSC parts are quite vintage shall we say. It seems to me that the best option therefore is to replace the MSC with an ESC such as this one: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/modelsport-uk-sniper-rv-20-auto/rc-car-products/31775. If after that the motor seems suspect a replacement stock equivalent such as this http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-saturn-motor-27t/rc-car-products/32208 is the way forward (and that the pinion gear will exchange off the existing can) although i'm not relishing drilling the screw. Batteries: Two new ones per car are needed - http://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-3300mah-7.2v-sport-stick-pack/rc-car-products/376164 I'd much appreciate any thoughts on the above, particularly replacing Car B's MSC for an ESC and how to go about this (I'm assuming it's a fairly straightforward process, and on the suitability etc of the parts I've linked to. Longer term then replacing the bushes with proper bearings will give them good experience of how a RC car works / is built / stripped / rebuilt. I don't imagine due to the age of the chassis that there will be any other hop ups that are that cost effective (other than maybe a slightly faster motor) and that by next year we'll be looking for a modern chassis. Many thanks craig