Shudson

But even with third party, you are actually insured - your insurance company is not covering other road users, but indemnifying you against any claims other people might make against you, but only that, Its the same as the Public Liability Insurance you have for your models - unless you only have air keeping your ears apart and don't have it - Hit some one or thing with your model and insurance covers you against any claims; injure yourself with your model and that's your tough luck!

It doesn't cover you or your bike under any circumstances, It merely provides cover far, as its name suggests, third parties. Even if you are not to blame, it is up to you to recover your losses yourself from the third party.

I think the point he was trying to make is that, regardless of blame, if fully comp your insurer would pay you out for your bike and you could use that to buy another. If third party and other party is to blame, you have to claim off him, presumably using your legal protection. If fault is at all debatable you may have to resort to litigation (which may not be covered by your legal protection) and could be protracted. If you are to blame, then you take it on the chin and repair/replace your bike yourself, if you have the money, otherwise shanks' pony!

Is that with one particular battery or all batteries?

You've been spoilt by current low prices. My first proportional set in about 1968, http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/simpropele_digi_21_funkfernsteuerung.html, was £115 including servos. At that time, £20 a week was a fairly good "blue collar" wage and a new mini-van was just over £300 and the most expensive new Ford (Zodiac Executive) was £1400. Comparing that with todays figures would probably make my radio about £2500+!!! In comparison, the Futaba set is almost "pocket money" price! You don't know you are born these days!

https://www.t9hobbysport.com/frsky-dht-2.4ghz-telemetry-diy-module

Don't think Worx are anything to do with B & D.

I would avoid anything by Worx. After sales service is non-existent. I bought one of their drills and after 15 months the charger packed up. Couldn't find a replacement so rang them to see if they could supply one. Apparently they don't stock any spares and just suggested I shop around!

It looks as though there may be 2 "pads" under that blob of solder. The outer screen is often connected to -ve; you may be able to trace it through from the negative battery lead.

The fact that it just pulled off suggests that it was a poor joint causing your problems, rather than the actual aerial. Don't forget that it will be co-ax with two joints.

Can you not bare back the end of the original and solder it back?

Not really. The balloon thing was just a variation of a competition in the 60s and early 70s where a number of balloons were tethered in the lake and burst against the clock. These were then replaced for the next competitor, and so on. When "playing" we did not have the means to set out tethered balloons, so towing them and entering into "combat" was the logical variation. To recover stalled boats we used to tow anything that floated and half-circle the stranded boat so the tow line passed under it and caught on the prop and rudder, the "float" resulting in the boat being captured and could then be towed to the bank. The paravane was just an extension of this.

My father and I used to tow balloons with our boats and each one had a needle mounted on the front. The object was to burst the other person's balloon. You could do something like this, if you can be sure no-one will get in the pool. Another thing we did was to tow paravanes and collect "mines" - balls with a weight suspended underneath.

It is a warning, not a selling point!

The original post suggests that the engine does normally run - "...normally use cold....." Make sure fuel is flowing up pipe when priming (finger over exhaust outlet and turn over until fuel reaches carb) and open throttle slightly (with trim on transmitter). In over 50 years I have never had to heat an engine, nor used more than 20% nitro for general use, so if it normally runs, neither should be necessary.

Now that we know that the engine has never run and, I assume, you have no experience of nitro engines:- From Google, the spec of the model gives the engine as a Kyosho GX21 and from "factory settings" section of this forum, these are given as :- Kyosho GX21 Engine HSN - 4 Turns out from fully closed LSN - 0.5mm in from flush on valve IDLE 1mm Gap in carb The first thing, if you have not already done so, is to check that these settings have been applied. Gently turn the high speed needle fully in until it just seats (count the turns) - don't force it - and then open it 4 full (360 degrees) turns and check low speed and idle gap settings are correct. I suspect that it is currently less than 4 turns. Remove plug and check that it "glows" with glow starter. replace plug - be careful not to get it "crossed" - tighten till it seats - don't force it too hard. Finger over the exhaust outlet and turn the engine over fuel should be seen rising in the fuel pipe towards carburetor - continue priming until it reaches carb. Finger off the exhaust, attach glow starter and try to start. After 2 or 3 pulls, engine should start to "crack" and eventually start. If no "cracking", prime again. If still nothing, remove fuel pipe and continue as in my earlier post.

Too lean and/or throttle gap too small? As suggested previously, disconnect fuel pipe from carb. turn over with finger over exhaust outlet. If fuel does not spurt out, this suggests a fault with tank (outlet blocked, leak. lid not sealing). If fuel spurts out of pipe, reconnect pipe and check both needles are at factory settings. Adjust if nesc. Widen idle gap slightly. If no improvement in starting, open main needle one turn and prime. If fuel does not flow up pipe, open needle a further turn (keep a note of changes to settings so that you can restore them accurately) and prime. Repeat as necessary until fuel flows to carb when priming. All this should be done with wheels clear of ground and brakes off.

Has it been running OK previously and suddenly developed this problem, or is this your first attempt to get it started. Are the needles /carb set to factory settings?

Have you left fuel in the tank for any length of time when not in use?

It won't make any difference. As you say, it merely pressurises the tank and it is only a low pressure system anyway. It is probably of more concern that you feel the need to take it in for tuning; nitro models are not "fit and forget" - the state of tune is influenced by so many factors, including air temperature, humidity and even the type of use, that they can require minor adjustments almost daily. You need to learn to master this yourself. It is rather like booking a full size car in for the tyre pressures adjusting - or my daughter, who had been driving (with her own car) for over five years before she learnt how to put petrol in, although in her case, I suspect that the problem may have been not so much the re-fuelling as the payment!

Like you, I can't get along with the "pistol" type transmitters and don't seem able to get precise control with them. As far as ready-to-go 3 channel stick sets are concerned, without spending a lot of money, there is really only the Code/Etronix/Tamco sets (all three are the same, just different labels and receivers are interchangeable - just go for whichever is cheapest at the time) They have all the "bells and whistles" I have twelve and have had no problems with them, apart from a broken switch which was easily replaced. They are however, a little "lightweight" and, I suspect, may not stand up to physical abuse but, at the price, you can't complain. However, my personal choice is for a decent 40mhz set converted to 2.4ghz I have about 20 of various makes converted with FrSky 2.4ghz modules, including KO Vantage Esprit, Hitec Eclipse, JR X-756 and others. The three mentioned are my favourites and I have several of each. The Hitec and JR are the easiest to convert, as they have plug-in modules in the transmitter and conversion takes, literally, two minutes. These two sets are not easy to find, though. The Esprit is a bit more readily available and has far more adjustments (can't understand a lot of them myself!) but conversion requires some soldering and slight modifications to case. Transmitter modules were about £20 each and receivers about £13. Consequently, if you can pick up a decent second hand 40mhz set for about £30, your total cost ends up very similar to Core/Etronix/Tamco but you have more solid feeling set.

Actually, if you do need cooling, it isn't necessary for the boat to be moving (as long as prop is turning) if the scoop is placed correctly. The inlet should be approx. 1/8th inch behind the prop, towards the outer edge of the blades and (looking from the front of the boat) between 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock.

Are you using "dry" (replaceable) batteries for receiver, or re-chargeable?

Linking servo to rudder is fairly straight forward. Mount servo vertically (so arm rotates on top) ideally with arm at same height as tiller. Servo arm and tiller should be parallel to each other and about 2 or 3 inches apart (not critical) with double bends at each end. A better solution is to use aircraft type pushrods with adjustable clevises. If the tiller and servo arm are not parallel, you will get differential rudder movement (more one side than the other). Very rough sketch attached.

Still use a lock nut, particularly if using a brass prop, as the sudden deceleration of an electric motor, coupled with the momentum of a heavy prop, can cause it to unscrew. Whilst most of my experience with boats was either diesel or nitro power, rather than electric, I have still had props come loose quite a number of times. If you mean left hand (anti-clockwise), as you are looking from the back of the boat, towards the front, the rotation of the shaft will actually unscrew it, by the way. "standard" props tend to tighten onto a standard thread.