tappy

Last I heard, Normanton was a drift course. They used to have an onroad track a couple of years ago but they replaced it.

It's a re-badged Team Magic E4RS III (which isn't a bad thing!). Useful to know in case you're struggling to find spares.

It comes from the Americans need for a million TC classes so everyone can be a winner. It's basically TC cars with slow motors (blinky 25.5), awful tyres but cool bodies. The rules are quite strict in the hope of keeping things even.

I run 13.5 boosted and I use 1251, I've never had any issues with it. It's fast and it has enough torque. It's a little bit noisier than the top of the range servos but I can live with that.

My TRF419: Looking forward to doing some outdoor races this summer.

I'm pretty sure it's the original HPI RS4 Sport, it pre-dates the Sprint range. The Sprint cars were based on the Sport 2. I used to race one nearly 20 years ago. It was a pretty decent car back then and was very popular at my local club (Trax in Farnworth)

When I returned to the hobby I was of the same opinion and got myself a Flysky GT3C. It seemed to have all the functions I'd need (end point adjustment, steering expo and 2.4ghz). I was happy enough with it and it served it's purpose well enough whilst I got back to speed with things. I then saw a special offer on a Sanwa MT4 and I'd read that it was a very good radio so I decided to buy it. It's hard to describe the difference between the two but I'm no doubt quicker with the Sanwa. It just seems to respond better and more accurately and somehow made the car feel easier to drive. I appreciate that on paper it should be similar to the Flysky as I don't really use any of the extra settings but it isn't. It's miles apart.

I've been using the Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.1 for about a year and I love it. I've not had a problem with it. Before that I had the Reventon R and that was also a good ESC. The only thing I don't like about it is the fact that you have to connect it to a PC to change the boost settings. You can change most settings from the included program card but not boost.

The MI5 is the newer car (by 4 years) so should in theory be better. Parts should also be easier to come across for the Schumacher. The Xrays are all tanks though and can take one hell of a beating! I'd personally go with the MI5 but either car will be fine.

Good to know they're similar grip. When you say wearing better, do you mean throughout a race or the lifespan of the tyre?

I've been racing 32rb for the last few months and have found them to be the best at our club. 28jb were good but they tend to fade off towards the end of a run. My current set are on their last legs and I need to replace them. Anyone tried the new set with the black inserts yet? Are they any better?

They're a new pre-mount set. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=386992&gclid=Cj0KEQiAneujBRDcvL6f5uybhdABEiQA_ojMgjcsE5xJM5wMbFDXsybm32-y86_f_BDDBpEJ1xVTNDoaAhkl8P8HAQ

Just slice open your old pre-mounts and take out the insert.

Great, thanks.

I don't know what is on the EFRA and IFMAR lists but I presume from your response that it's really open and I can run my 5.5. Thanks.

When an event (e.g. Durango WInter Series) states they have a 'modified' class, is it modified as in any wind motor (e.g. 5.5T) or is it as per BRCA rules (10.5T limit). I'm thinking of entering a few of the bigger events and wasn't sure.

Very unlikely. On the TT01E the front body posts are mounted to the front shock tower. On the TA06 they're mounted to the bumper.

If you want to race, the MI5 is by far the best kit out of those listed. The Associated and the HPI are based on kits that are now over 10 years old. They'll still go round a track ok (with the right setup) but it will be hard to make them compete should you become serious about racing. The Associated and the HPI are usually sold as RTR kits and include all the electrics though so the MI5 route will be far more expensive. Other kits to look out for include the 3Racing Sakura Sport XI and the Spec R S2. Both can be purchased for around

Very unlucky. It looked a nice colour scheme. Obviously I didn't see the incident but it doesn't look like something Protoform could be blamed for. Looks like it got caught on something and it just ripped. It used to happen a lot at a club I raced at because of the way the barriers were held together. The shell would get caught in the bracket and it'd slice the side clean off. It didn't matter who the manufacturer was, if it got caught - it got torn off.

How are you finding the Wildfire? It's probably my favourite looking car on the market.

I've tried a few different ones but nothing has come close to the grip and wear rates of the Sorex 28's. My current set has lasted about 10 meetings and there's still plently left on them.

Franks Bodies. He sells them on ebay: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/franksbodies?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 I got it as an auction and luckily there weren't many bidders. Cost

New lid for my Spec R Wish I could spray like this I'm not normally into pink but it's really vivid and looks fantastic in real life.

I run 13.5 boosted with a similar FDR on a smallish indoor track. I typically take about 1300mah out of the battery per run. That includes a minute or so warm up before each run. Would it not be better to just get two regular capacity batteries rather than one big one? It'd make the car easier to balance. I'd highly recommend the nanotechs, they're excellent batteries. It's a shame they're not BRCA approved.