hipwell

Rounded Allen key bolts - drill the heads off, remove engine and then twist the remains of the screw out with some pliars. Then replace with new bolts. Metal replacment parts - waste of money, I spend hundreds on alloy bits on my old ts4n, looked pretty but made no difference whatsoever to handling or speed. Changing gears - if you've got the 2 speed then you just remove the e clips holding the gears onto the layshaft and the 2 speed assembly will come out, then there's 4 small screws holding each plastic spur gear onto the the transmission.. Cleaning without stripping down - cotton bud and bog roll usually works well

My force 32 has had over 2gallons through it and it's still running perfectly and holds a tune great running Big Bang 25% Great motor for the money and was not far behind a guy with an lrp 32 in a similar buggy recently.

The Silvia looks pretty cool, but the skyline is terrible. Wonder how the Silvia handles for club racing, would be nice to have something which isn't a Mazda 6

Not quite true that, you could charge an 8000mah lipo at 4amps it would just take longer.

What is the big IF? I've still not decided what to do, this money Is just burning a hole in my pocket, but I'm happy with my mi4cxl for club racing really, until I get a much better driver I don't think there's much point me spending hundreds on a new car.

I'd just get a new pull start, there only about 9 quid and a lot less hassle than a roto start. If the engine is primed and tuned properly it should only take one or 2 short pulls to fire up anyway. Which engine is in you ts4n?

Yeah I tried foams when we first got this carpet and it ripped my spool to shreads. Maybe they would work OK with a front diff but yeah as you say, there's that much grip that it will knacker the drive train much faster

Cheers for the comments guys. Yeah I've been using sorex 32 a lot recently but all the top guys are using 28's as they seem to get much better grip or our old primafelt lol.

Yeah I do use sorex 32's at times too but your still looking at 25 quid a pack. I was hoping somebody might have found a cheapo set somewhere that may work well for racing.

Is there one? All that seems to work on our carpet is sorex 28's. Its only club level so it doesn't need to be brca approved but I'd like to find a tyre that works that doesn't cost 25 quid after a few weeks of use to replace. I used to use sweep 32's which were well cheap but they don't work on our new carpet. Carpet is primafelt GT.

Just to add, I use model technics big bang 25 in my engines and its never skipped a beat. However stay well clear or model technics duraglo, it's an oily mess.

Any ideas if hobbyking will every get these back in? Were having a great summer and I had some spare money and there's non in bloody stock

Yeah that makes sense tbh. I'd not actually checked the weight of em. Yeah nanotechs are great, although mine got took a hit last week and all the casing cracked which I'm gutted about as it's fairly new l.

Just seen the new extreme nano techs on hobbyking and they have got a 7500mah 2s 90c on there for 37 quid. How long do you think this would last running a 13.5 boosted tourer for racing on a small track geared at 7.3fdr? Only reason I ask is that sometimes we don't get many people on race night and only have 2 or 3 heats so I don't get chance to fully charge my pack between races, currently I use a 5600 nanotech. Races are 5 minutes and we usually have 4 rounds. If a 7500mah could kick out strong voltage for 10 minutes or more then that would be perfect

Cutting out is normal for a nitro engine on break in. The advise given in this thread is pretty much all you need, if this doesn't help you then it maybe worth paying the model shop a couple of quid to show you how to use one of them so you can pass it on to the other 2 engines. Behappy, that has no contribution to this post so that was a pointless reply.

Cool I'll check out some prices. Where's the best place for parts for the high end tamoyas?

Sounds good. I'm gonna see what UK shops stock parts for it before I jump into anything, I've been searching for a chassis for months now but the evo 6 is the first thing that's come about that I really took a liking to. I just love Schumacher for their amazing parts support.

I run 13.5 boosted so was worrying a little about torque steer, but we do only run a small track so the instant shaft power may be a good thing What are high end tamiyas like to live with? In terms of strength,parts availability etc My mi4cxl is still on the original drive shafts and I've never seen a cx style schumacher shaft break at my club but see at least one X-ray shaft a week snap which puts me off X-ray , plus I don't like the orange alloy lol.

What are people's thoughts on the new tb evo 6 from tamiya? How do shaft drives stack up against belt drives like the mi5? Would I be a fool to buy an evo 6 for 300 quid when I could get an mi5 for 200 quid at ms? I race on a small indoor carpet track

Them rev Tech's seem to get good reviews too. Also the dynamite 13.5 I run has been flawless, keeps up with the best of em at my club.

Most popular at my club is xray t4 and Schumacher and top photons. Not seen anybody use a brushed motor for years, brushless is just so much better. Most popular classes around me are 13.5t brushless, which is equivalent to the old 27t brushed but so much faster when you add boost. Associated have lost their ways by the sounds of it since they got bought out by thunder tiger

Bought a spectrum dx3c last week ands its great for the money.

Xray t4 2014 servo saver.

I use the old style nanotechs 5300's and they are ace. It has got so much more punch than the jpenergy 5000 I got ripped off for at my lhs

Ive always used nitro fuel and then wd40 on my air filters and my previous 2 engines are still running strong after 5 gallons.