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Clogger

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  • RC Cars
    TT Tomahawk BX nitro / Traxxas Rustler VXL (modded) / HPI Brama 10b / ECX Circuit
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  1. Hi, do you know if the Losi shocks will fit a Traxxas Rustler? I've checked online and some pages suggest they do but other pages suggest mods required. If you don't know is it possible you could measure them? Thanks.
  2. Hokus, I've been away for a few days, how did you get on with the cars?
  3. Thanks Sean, that looks very tempting at that price. VP Master Basher 20 RTR just under 1litre for
  4. It's just clicked, I was thinking 'gallon' almost 5l but it's a US gallon so it's less than 4l. Thought everything american had to be bigger and better
  5. Thanks for the replies, thought it might've stirred up a bit more discussion! Been looking around the internet, Dynaglo seems very difficult to find, Byron seems to be a similar price (maybe
  6. Hi all, I realise this can be a very personal decision, what fuel to use, and it all depends what I want for the car but I'm new to this and looking for advice on fuels to then make my decision. What would people recommend as the best fuel that is easily available at a reasonable price (ie. not twice the price of other fuels) for a Thunder Tiger Tomahawk BX with what I believe is a .18 TT Pro engine? As advised in the Beginner's FAQ and elsewhere I think I'll stick with 16% but which Brand and specific mix. The car was bought second hand and came with almost a gallon of Model Technics Qwikfire 16%, I have been using this fuel to get the car running. I started tuning and the car was going reasonably well when I messed up and adjusted the wrong needle so I'm going back to factory settings to start tuning again. As I have proved that the car will run and due to various comments/answers previously this seemed like a good time to get new fuel. I have been advised that Model Technics aren't good fuels except for a couple of varieties, and I've been advised to get Byron fuel. Is the Qwikfire range one of MT's good fuels and worth sticking with? Locally the only brand I can get is MT Qwikfire and according to the previous owner the car was always run on this fuel. I have shopped around online looking at whats available, Byron Gen2 was tempting but Modelsport have stopped it, does this mean MS think it is a bad fuel and/or it could disappear everywhere soon and therefore it's pointless tuning an engine to it now. All that MS stock in 16% is Optifuel Optimix Rtr, is this a good fuel? Thanks for reading. Edit - Sorry, should've stated what I want from the car, I'm not interested in going in as fast as possible just general bashing use and as easy as possible to tune!
  7. If you don't mind me asking, how much are they charging to set each car up?
  8. Was all going fine for about 10 mins then, looking back, I think I over adjusted the HSN but I mistook it dying and then failing to start for an idle problem Had adjusted the idle a few times to try to stop it creeping, then adjusted the HSN twice and it died whilst accelerating. My son was asking for a go so I tried restarting it, it wouldn't start, without thinking right I went straight for the idle and started adjusting that, idiot!!! It would start but every time I took the starter off it would die within a few seconds. Looks like it's back to stage 1 next time, factory settings. Didn't notice any excess fuel/oil around the silicon exhaust pipe today, perhaps I should've changed those cable ties earlier. Took my Rustler for a spin with my 10yr old son and his ECX Circuit, had a nice walk in the sun with the cars kicking up loads of dust and no puddles to worry about. His ECX Circuit has proved to be a good cheap car (touches wood), it's not too fast for him and it's taken some abuse, jumps that used to pop my Rustler's shocks, landing on all sides, lots of dust, etc and all I've had to spend was for a better battery and 2.4 radio system (original was very short range), the only repair was one drive shaft twisted which luckily with very slight modification the Rustler ones fit and I had an old spare set. Going to be a few days before I can get the Tomahawk out again, I'll let you know what happens.
  9. Thanks all. 1. It looks original, it's a Thunder Tiger engine, I've just downloaded the instructions and apart from the colour of the cylinder head it looks a perfect match. 2. The fuel is Model Technics Qwikfire 16. It is of an unknown age but the car appears to be running ok with it. Is this one of the better MT fuels? 3. I take it the engine burns the fuel but the oil gets expelled with the gasses, makes sense now that I think of it that way, where else would all that oil go! 4. I've had to replace the cable ties holding the silicon exhaust pipe because the ones fitted had gone brittle and broke, I've used more cable ties and made sure they are tight. Nitroholic - hadn't occurred to me that the jubilee clips would cut into the silicon, very good point. 5. I'm hoping to get out with it today so I'll try lowering the idle again and see what happens. I'll report back later on today's developments, hopefully I'll get further than yesterday when the exhaust manifold decided it wanted to stay where it was as the car drove away!
  10. Found this video, it'll give you an idea of what is possible with brushless. https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=dax4Yb_VSyY
  11. Hi all, Some questions that got missed in my other post if anyone can help. I recently got a second hand Thunder Tiger Tomahawk BX, I've had a couple of problems, broken brake linkage, failed servo and a loose drive cup. All problems are now sorted except the biggest one, I haven't finished tuning the car as I need to find a bigger suitable area. The questions:- 1. How can I identify the engine, all I can find is a TT plane symbol and the word 'PRO'? How do I know if this is the 0.18 engine or not? 2. QRC advised me to get Byrons fuel due to the unknown age of the fuel that came with the car, the car has been run on Model Technics 16%, is this a good enough fuel to stick with or should I change to Byrons and brake the engine in again with that? 3. There is LOTS of waste fuel coming out of the silicone exhaust coupling, am I right to assume this is a sign that the car is running too rich and it will reduce as I tune the engine? 4. The silicone exhaust coupling is held on with a cable tie at each end, would jubilee clips be better or do they present other problems? 5. The car tends to creep forward (approx walking pace) at idle, seen as though I have already set the idle could this be caused by the LSN or does the idle need adjusting again after tuning the HSN & LSN? Thanks.
  12. Whilst electric is easier, nitro has the advantage that to an extent you can look out your window and if the weather looks good off you go where as electric you have to check the weather forecast (we all know how good they are!) and if it's going to be nice tomorrow you can put your batteries on charge. Also, once your battery has died you either need another one or you go home, nitro you just refill the tank. The modern brushless cars can be very fast, there are videos on you tube of some doing more than 100mph. My Rustler is brushless and it's pretty fast, it wheelies every time I touch the throttle, change a couple of gears and it should easily do 65mph. The downside is a
  13. For my Rustler I found an old one locally on ebay that I managed to get for
  14. Roller is a rolling chassis, no engine/motor and no electrics unless stated otherwise hence the good prices. Usually they include all the other mechanical bits such as diffs, gearbox, drive shafts, etc (please correct me if I'm wrong) so you need to factor in the cost of an engine/motor, servos, esc (if electric) and tx & rx unless of course you already have these parts from another car or spares.
  15. I'm the same, as honest as possible when selling. I'd feel so guilty knowing I'd ripped someone off, pity there are so many out there who just don't care.
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