gavin28

could also be fuel gummed up in the carb if you left it for a bit while you waited for a new spur to be delivered. This would produce your symptoms of being difficult to prime and cutting out after a few seconds. Fresh fuel will break down the gummed up fuel, to sort it i usually open the hsn needle a full turn out, prime and start the engine, you can tell when it clears as the engine note changes as it gets really rich, when it does, just screw the hsn needle back to factory settings for break-in.

SKF bearings are good quality, you can find them on ebay or any good bearing supplier.

I've got a WLToys A979 1/18th truck, good for the price (

no probs mate, that last link seams good too, very cheap, but i've not checked the postage costs

ok lets get the spoon out M3 M4 (8.8 but more than strong enough for RC purposes) M5 M6 or http://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/Home_Metric_Socket_Countersunk_Head_Screws__Grade_10_9_Zinc_Plated__38.html http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/ http://www.nutandboltshop.com/acatalog/Galv-8.8----1.html many more on google

ebay is full of them:) for example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M3-M5mm-COUNTERSUNK-CSK-SOCKET-CAP-ALLEN-SCREW-BOLTS-HIGH-TENSILE-10-9-ZINC-/121374541386?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item1c427c864a

It doesn't matter to the motor which way around the wires are, some cars have the motor facing forwards on the car so will run red-to-red etc, and some cars have the motor facing backwards so will need to run red-to-black and vis versa. As long as the car is functioning correctly, and it doesn't go faster in reverse, then all is good.

Modelsport sell them too for 18 delivered - I've just had to buy one

I use acetone, I put a small bottle of it (

Give it a try, 5-7-2 is my usual starting point for a buggy. If the front wheels are spinning up under acceleration and you want more power to the rear you need thicker oil in the centre diff. Increasing the thickness in the rear will make it more tail happy on low traction surfaces but will slow down the steering response with high traction, it all depends on running conditions, personal preference and driving style.

I've got an Alpha Z852 with a Hong Nor 2047 in my CLX, very quick and snappy on the throttle with great top end. My brother as a Picco .21 5 port, which although we haven't run side by side yet, seams to have a bit more bottom end, but once the revs increase, the alpha just seams so much quicker, the engine loves to scream I have fitted 1.1mm clutch springs so the lack of bottom end isn't noticeable now, it just takes off like a scalded cat. Never used or seen a F850 so can't compare, but I'm more than happy with the Z852

I use this calculator when i need to mix oils http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/oil_mixer.html

about 11 years ago i got the chance to work on and ride a Ducati 998R Superbike that had recently won the NW200 Had it up to 180 (ish), Been 150+ many a time

I've used http://www.rcengineservices.co.uk before, I think he is on the Maxbashing forum too, or was was he did mine. Really fast turn around and did a good job too. This should help you understand

yes unfortunately the battery back is missing from the Jaguar one too as pictured.

Hong Nor X3 Sabre E

you know the Trackstar is available in a .21 size too, with pull start or full race bump start? And also a long stroke version for on-road use.

Hi mate, I'm sorry I don't seam to have the Hoboa one any more, I must have sold it with an RC car. This is what i have left, I know you dismissed the Bymco stick Tx, but i don't know if you realise, it's a Hitec transmitter just with Bymco branding on the front - its brand new too. The Jaguar stick Tx is exactly the same - a Hitec, but this one is for spares or repair as some of the battery tabs are missing. The Futaba stick Tx is missing the battery cover and has a damaged aerial, but a good, straight spare one as seen in the photos is included. The Acme and unbranded FTX (looks and feels the same as a HPI and Hoboa one) wheel Tx's are brand new, you can still see the protective film on the FTX one. The Kyosho one is used, but works perfectly fine (it was my favourite AM wheel Tx due to it having steering dual rate and a forward cantered aerial) It has slight damage to the battery lid area, but it stays put and I've never had an issue with it. (forgot to photo this) The Rx's, there are 2 Futaba and one unknown (has Velcro on it as that's where i put my fail-safe so cant see the brand). I didn't have time to test them, but i know one of the Futaba ones definitely works, as i have just removed it from my Nitro Hawk which i used a few days ago. So i will just charge you for the known working one and you can have the other 2. I have boxed and weighed them, and it comes to 3Kg, the cheapest postage is via Hermes at

yes i see now, looks like a HSP Sonic

The Trackstar engines are just standard re-branded GO engines, made in the same factory too, with a black coating on the block, a red anodised head and a different carb.

nope, don't get what you are on about there, i will wait for the pics before i start guessing lol

no, not from personal experience, but i will be getting my hands on the .28 version when it arrives, hopefully by next weekend. I've read a few reviews on other forums, and the general opinion seamed to be that there ok for the money, but don't expect the same performance as a true race engine, the Trackstars are only 3 port GO engines, nothing special, about the same performance as a standard .21 3 port engine.

I've got the RB one, came with some used parts i bought, as far as i can tell it makes no difference, so its been sat in a draw unused.