DeadMeatUK

With your budget you would get more bang for your buck with a .28

Modified RC rotor and boot kit, it'll stop the brake bind issue from worn rotors and lower temperature and wear of the diff cups.

Will we be seing it at BashFest again?

From what I hear most don't last very long due to vibration and knocks

Have you ever taken a picture of a sign and said "I'll read that later"?

Lol, the Michelin man! What is he signing? Some good pics there, is that a Rover SD1 next to the DeLorian? I still have the logbook and engine for a SD1 for a kit car project

I run Li-ion packs in my nitro's with a BEC (and petrol) the reason I do it is because they don't self discharge. I haven't charged it for 4months because it doesn't get used much and know the next time I do want to fire her up I only need to charge the glow starter

What about a LiFe pack? They have a nominal voltage of 6.6v and are readly available with the correct connector

It does indeed gear it up a little, mine was undergeared to start with so once the bigger wheels were fitted it was about right It also makes it grip roll but looks like you have the wheel spacers already fitted?

Why not do the same as gti72 and I have done? Mine is simply truggy wheels with modified body posts to hold a TXT-1 body Not the best looking thing but the control in the air was brilliant due to the bigger wheels on a buggy chassis ???? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Double check your end points on the servo and whenever possible go easy on the brakes, try to save full brakes for emergency stops. Your drive train will thank you for it

^ I've experienced that, I changed the clutch shoes from composite to aluminium and it reduced the heat no end and no more bearing failures

So you haven't checked? The super bee has some settings via dip switches, if you have replaced the Rx/Tx and it's still a problem you need to check them. Some thing else to consider is it could be interference from your spark? Could be the plug, lead or coil?? But I have my doubts as the Flysky is a powerfull system (probably transmitting above the legal limit to have sutch a long range?)

Don't you need to change the dip switches to go from 2ch to 3ch setup?

My money's on the EPA, seen it before. It's easily unknowingly adjusted with the control on the hand grip!

It's likely to be your EPA as there is a button on the hand grip that is easily pressed and turned down. It's right near the channel three button, push EPA button one way and the % will drop and the other it will increase. 100% is the default setting but you will need to make sure you don't try and operate the servo more than the stearing will allow or you will shorten the life of the servo.

The 5ive is one tough truck Mine has an ASModified 29cc full mod in it, I've booted and greased the drive cups to reduce heat and wear and I'm still running the stock clutch housing as I can't run a open clutch where I run (the finest, sharpest sand you will ever see!!) I'm running the stock servos on 2s Li-on which it usable but would benefit from an upgrade

I use a 2s Li-on pack in my nitro's with a BEC its a little over complicated but it's what I had lying around. If I had nothing and wanted to buy something it would be a Li-fe pack because it will only slightly over volt the servos so will give them a nice kick. You will however need to buy a Li-Po charger if you don't already have one

Have a look on yell/ google, I have a sound and lighting shop near me that rents out "stuff" you could hire just the bits you need? A pair of speakers, amp, a disco light? You would still have the quality issue with a iPod aux connection or laptop but will have plenty of volume available to add any lost bass/treble with a equaliser

Did you use one pea size blob to do the whole 'van??

I have a small person in my house that would love to help out by emptying one ???? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Too much hard work for me! Can you design a simpler one for us non-technical folk?

Has your rear brake rotor been moved to the front? I've been adjusting my brakes to be rear biased so I can handbrake it around the corners!

So your charger has a max output of 50w? Let's do some calculations.... You haven't said at what input voltage it requires to deliver 50w? If it's rated at 12v 50w then a 2s pack requires 8.4v to fully charge it 50/8.4 = 5.95 so has a max charge rate of 5.95A (6A) A 3s pack is 12.6v so that's 50/12.6= 3.97 so the max charge rate at 3s is 3.79A If your charger says 15v 50w then the charge rates will be even lower as it requires the input voltage to be at its max rating to get the max output

DeadMeatUK - Losi 5ive, Peterborough, East Mids