OldVWMK1

Yeah i will upload soon, works a bit of a nightmare atm. Cheers for the info tho 👍

Ah i have the full bladders, without the hole in the middle, so if i get the metal top caps, then i could just cut the middle out of the full bladders i have and then bleed the shock? Cheers for the confirmation!

Cheers bud! Thats appreciated 👍 Does anyone know what shells will work on this? Or is it a case of getting the measuring tape out, buying the nearest size and cutting to fit?

Just finished putting it together! I have cut the power wires and soldered the connector for the battery i have on. I used shrink wrap and electrical tape as well so any nasty knocks shouldnt do too much damage. I needed to use a bit of wd40, some big pliers and some foam insulator to protect the wiring on the motor connectors, they did not want to go in! The lid really doesnt like going on. So i would like to find a different shell and possibly a dust bag to protect the innards, but thats not too important at the moment. Despite the torrential downpour we had less than an hour ago, i couldnt resist 😃 I programmed it, put the initial burst speed up to max and took it out the front, absolutely nuts!! Massive wheelies when it hooked up, sliding in the puddles, so fast... Massive ear to ear grin 😁 I came in before i broke something on the kerbs lol Now i just need somewhere fun to run it 🙄

Im a bit ashamed but i quite like this body style, I hated the picture when i first saw it but after the video im quite liking it. $550 on the website for sale mid may. Will prob be the same over here £550

Agreed, i like the K10, and F150. Not too sure about the creep.

Very nice truck! I cant wait to see the finished shell, and a video of it running 👌

Yeah thats what i have been trying to do. I am not too good at the Imperial? Metric? weird screws lol, whatever the Americans use 😄 I will check out kaysfasterners, thanks! Excellent!! Very good to know, thank you! I do have a short list of stuff i need, i will contact you over the next week or two 👍 I think i am on the road to completion, i have some screws coming for the guard strip, that will then mean the battery tray can be attached, although only with two screws, so i need to drill some more holes for my piece of mind, at least 1 more i think, maybe 2. It has the battery forward mod done, and the motor wires wont reach the esc in the standard layout. I didnt want to chop the power wires on the esc, so bought the adapters to match the battery, but got the wrong size, so it looks like my soldering will be put to the test using the attachment on the old esc, or buy the right attachment. My thinking is i want to use 4s, but will i get longer run times from 2 x 2s or would i be better staying with 1 x 4s brick. I wanted to keep the cables until i knew. I have cleaned and rebuilt the shocks, but one of them is leaking. I couldnt figure out how to build these properly, i watched loads of videos and did my best, there were no washers, bladders or any seals on the caps, so i bought bladders and new red seals for the shafts and 35wt shock oil. The little screws in the cap dont have seals and they are all chewed plastic so im going to get metal shock caps and do the job properly next time, im not sure about the bladders but didnt want them all to leak from the bleed screw, and it also kind of makes sense that you wouldnt want air in the oil, to me any way. As far as running it goes, there is a park near me but that gets boring quickly. I have been searching for a bash site as the club nearest me is open 2 days a week and is all about racing, its also closed when not being used by the club. I have been using google maps satellite view, wish me luck! 😄

Damn thats a good looking vehicle!

Hey guys, Thought i would start a little thread about my buggy. I bought it a year or two ago second hand off here, think it was second hand for the dude i bought it off, and at some point in its life it was a parts bin, there are a lot of screws missing 😄 It was set up for 6s with mixed motor and esc. I had loads of fun with it for a while then the diffs made a nasty grinding noise when running and i lost 4wd, and around the same time covid struck. I got it out of storage a month or two ago and rebuilt the diffs, i also noticed the wires coming out of the motor were frayed and showing metal, and the set button on the power switch was broken so i couldnt change any settings. I have purchased a hobby wing ezrun max 8 esc and 2200kv motor combo. I have also got really annoyed with the screws on the buggy, they are all stripping, or missing 🙄 I have managed to get a few screws that work using codes off the online manuals, but my buggy seems to be a mix and match of losi parts (most likely upgrades i guess) and some are the wrong thread or wrong size completely. The motor mount wont let you attach the motor and adapter, i have had to put washers between the adapter and motor to give a tiny bit of clearance to allow the adapter to slide up and down the mount. The most recent fail is the side guard screws stripping so i cant attach the guard or battery tray. But this is all part of the fun and i cant wait to finish it! I have been looking for a stainless screw kit, but losi stuff in the uk is almost non existent at the moment. Especially 2.0 and 3.0. Once this is done i have a SC5M short course that i want to get running again with some mods. I will upload some pics at some point. Have a nice day 👍

I will pm you now bud.

I have a fair few pleasant memories of this little car, so im leaning towards keeping it. I have no idea about where to begin doing a brushless conversion, but am nowhere near ready to start looking yet. Im thinking this could be a fun project as i doubt there are any kits that would simply bolt on, there is also a massive tarmac carpark at work and i still havent found any where decent to run my off road vehicles.

Hi, More years than I care to admit ago I bought a GS Racing Vision RTR touring car, nitro, 4x4, belt driven that I bought spur of the moment for more than i care to admit. 😅 https://www.rcscrapyard.net/gs-racing-vision.htm Went like stink, drifted before I even knew what the sport of drifting was. Loved it, but only used it 15 - 20 times over the course of a year. Then life happened and it got put away and never used again. Its looking a bit sorry for itself but nothing a clean and refresh wouldnt fix. Im not sure what to do with it, I dont use nitro anymore and have no idea what its worth. Should i clean it up and try to sell it? Convert it to electric and upgrade it, keep it for carpark bashes? See if anyone wants to swap? Im just mulling things over for the moment whilst refurbing a buggy and thought i would see what the touring car crowd thought. Have a nice evening .

Hi, I am nearly finished building my SC5M, 1/10 scale short course truck. I have the hobbywing EZRUN 3660 4000KW motor and MAX10 ESC The motor can accept 2 or 3s batterys, however the truck chassis is really thin and will only accept a shorty pack. I can find 2s packs in the uk, but no 3s. There are 3s packs in the US but the postage is like $75 due to hazmat shipping. Im not paying that. Does anyone know of any 3s shorty packs for sale in the UK? Cheers 👍

Thank you very much, I really appreciate your help! I have just purchased from 19 - 21t 3.2mm 48p pinions 👌 I am currently trying to tidy a space that i can keep clear for a week or so so I can build the truck. I am really excited about this 😎

Hi, I am completely new to electric RC, I saw a kit advertised for a Team Associated SC5M, having always wanted to build an RC kit and being fed up of nitro I bought it. It comes without ESC and Motor, so I bought a Hobbywing EZRUN 3660 4000kv MAX10SCT combo and an Absima CR3P to monitor temps. I knew I had to organise pinion and spur gears from some of the 'light' reading I had done, but I think I have read too much and I am now fried. The truck is 2wd, will be a proper all rounder, local track rare occasion, car parks, road outside and off road being the main areas used. So I am thinking 48p gears. What im really stuck with is what pinion and spur gear to choose??? I dont mind buying a few pinion gears to fine tune if someone can give me a number range to try. I have read that its best to buy a spur gear and interchange pinions. Your help is much appreciated, this is more indepth than I thought lol

Hi everyone, Not had a chance to update on the car since i came on last, work and stuff has been a bit mental. The problem i had was a leaky carb, the rubber wouldnt seal and fuel was not making it into the engine. On the pic below you can see where its all wet from the leak. I ended up replacing the carb and will look at fixing the broken one and keeping it as a spare. Took the car into the garden in the hope of seeing it run and it started very briefly..... it went into full on scream mode for a few seconds then died, despite being on a little more than idle. I kept trying to start it and it got close a few times but thats it. When it started the first time and when it got close the time after i noticed that the fuel in the line kind of turned to bubbles. Not just a couple of bubbles but almost like honeycomb or the head on a pint. As ive never had a clear fuel line beofre im not too sure if this is supposed to happen, i doubt it personally, so i have ordered some more fuel line as its pretty cheap and while i was shopping i ordered a fuel filter, exhaust gaskets and an exhaust gas cooler as it wasnt very much. Is the engine supposed to be able to hold its own weight with its compression? Hold the engine horizontal and turn the flywheel until piston starts to compress and then let go of the engine and just hold the fly wheel, the compression on my truggy engine will hold it up Doing exactly the same test this is how far it gets before stopping. i know they are different engines but just want to know if this means there is going to be a loss of power or it is completely normal for this type of engine. Cheers Martin

http://www.bigsquidrc.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/RC4wd-Predator-Track-Fitting-Kit-for-HPI-WR8-Flux-2.jpg This looks awesome!

Hi J.A.Son, When i was working on my truggys engine, Deafty asked me to test the engines compression by holding the head parallel to the floor and moving the flywheel to get the piston to start to compress, then hold the flywheel and let go of the head and see if the compression could hold the engines weight. Now im not expecting the same sort of compression as the 4.6 is a bigger engine. But i was expecting to feel some firmness and for the engine to hold its own weight, as the piston approaches TDC with me holding the flywheel i thought it would stop moving but it doesnt, it goes through its full cycle. There is some compression there, it does have some resistance, just not as much as i expected. Yeah i tested it again later that day just to make sure and it is the carb thats leaking. I will definitely fix the carb and ebays a good place for cheap parts. I was just curious to see if anyones put a faster engine or one with more torque in. Thanks for replying, its appreciated

Has anyone put a different engine in the wr8? Ive taken this one out and the compression of the engine wont support its own weight. This i have been told is bad and requires a rebuild to fix. So i was thinking this is a perfect opportunity to put a better engine in the car and use the original to learn how to do a full rebuild and keep it as a spare.

I have the alienware tactx keyboard and think its the best ive had so far for comfort and the feel and pressure of the keys. The fact it lights up and you can change the colours is awesome as it means on a long gaming session i can turn the main lights off in the room and still see the keys. I just have my whole keyboard set to a boring red, its not too bright and doesnt keep me awake when i leave my pc on overnight.

I think i have found my problem a lot quicker than i was expecting. Fuel reaches the carb and then leaks out of the rubber sleeve instead of going into the engine. It actually comes out quite fast if you fill the carb and then squeeze and release the trigger several times, you can see a few bubbles and a trickle. Ive never taken a carb apart yet, this should be interesting, im guessing its just the sleeve i need to replace but ill take the whole thing apart for fun

Hi J.A.Son, I havent got a manual so put the settings flush and was going to work from there once it had warmed up. However i have noticed some brown liquid leaking from somewhere in the vicinity of the engine, possibly the exhaust gasket. I cant say exactly where atm as i only noticed once it had leaked a fair bit and i havent taken it apart to have a look yet. The stool i was using to support the car had a puddle on it, it was coming through the screws used to hold the engine and had pooled on the chassis. I am not knowledgeable about nitro rc cars compared to some but i quite enjoy learning and fiddling, possibly more than running them lol. My old trophy exhaust sat in a box for a while when i replaced it, that had some brown liquid in it that came out when i moved it. Im wondering if exhaust residue collected and moved around during the postage process, i wont know until i have a look. I saw the fuel move through the lines when i primed it, but i did question whether fuel was getting through a couple of times. I thought i had flooded the engine twice yet when i removed the glow plug and turned the car upside down nothing came out. The leak im getting could be the fuel not reaching the engine? With my trophy even when its not starting or having tuning issues i can smell burnt fuel from the fuel contacting the glow plug, but im not getting that with this. I got one cough and beginnings of a start but that was after i took the fuel line off the exhaust and blew down it, which i do not like doing, i usually just plug the exhaust and pull the starter 3 or 4 times. Nitro cars are a PITA but make up for it x100 when you get them going!! I think the sound and smell of them beats electric everytime, but Im considering getting a brushless just for messing around with when im bored and have a few minutes and keeping the nitro's for days out as i do acknowledge the ease of electric.

Hi guys, I recently bought sidewaysjim's nitro WR8, i havent had time to run it since i bought it but took it out an hour ago and am having a pig of a time trying to start it. It was minus 2 outside earlier and doesnt seem to have got any warmer so i tried to preheat the engine near the heater as it seems ive killed my lipo for my engine heater so cant use that. It almost caught once and then nothing. Batteries all charged, 20% fuel, two working glow plugs, ive tried both, a 3 and a 4. The joys of nitro cars once my glow charger is charged again im going to try once more.