n_d_fox

Marine grease everything that could and will corrode with the salt water... I was going to take my SCX10 on holiday to Cornwall with me, i didnt in the end and although there were lots of awesome places to use it, im glad i didnt cause salt will destroy everything. Sand is also a PITA to clean out of everything properly and ive not long done a full strip, clean and rebuild on it. This is the stuff i use... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Marine-Waterproof-Grease-Aquaslip-500g-PREVENTS-CORROSION-RESISTANCE-TO-SALT-/301274076833?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item46255596a1 You might also want to make sure you waterproof as much of the electrics as you can, just in case. You can use balloons for the ECS and Rx but will need plastidip or similar for the servo unless you go with a waterproof one.

Thanks for the info... i'll check those out.

Not sure why but have never seen this thread before... its mental to see what some people are capable of with their RCs... awesome stuff !

Wasnt sure if this or General Electric was the right place... Anyway, im sure this has come up a number of times but a search wasnt giving any responses so i'll ask again if thats ok. Budget is up to

and thats better because !?!?.... only joking... nice new paint on the Landy

Havent touched this thread for a while... realised that i've made a few changes to the truck since. So, rather than spend money on the JR battery plate i decided to try and make one. After a cardboard template and a version 1 made out of a baking tray (which worked perfectly but was a little flimsy) we (me and my engineer - a.k.a Dad) came up with this version 2 made from stainless. Also picked up a box from Maplins to house all the electronics. Mounted this on the stock battery plate, i still need to bung the holes around the cables with silicon or something but im not planning on completely submerging the truck in water, this is more to be safe if i did get into water / mud etc. I've also changed out the shocks for TopCad piggy back items. These are chunky units compared to the stock shocks and have fully functional piggy backs. They are buttery smooth and with the preload adjusted, they sit the truck really nicely. They are long though, 105mm so i have flipped the RadShape lift kit over to mount the shocks higher than the stock hoops so lowering the chassis a little to keep the ride height sensible. I have had to cut a bit more of the body away from around the arches though, still trying to follow the lines of the body so it doesnt look too chopped up. Also changed the front bumper for a JK version. Oh, couldnt remember if i mentioned the JunFac shafts ? - the TopCad ones disintegrated after 2 runs... cant recommend them at all Still a nice amount of flex and stability after playing with the shocks / mounting / "lowering kit"... Now all i need to do it get using it again, notice the dust !? We're on holiday in Cornwall soon so im planning on taking it with me, the site we're at is surrounded by dunes and fields...

Mirror the trans on the SCX10, flipping it rounds makes little to no difference... been there, done it, now have it mirrored, its very very simple and there are lots of videos on youtube to help you. You can also take advantage of having the trans apart and marine grease everything to help with waterproofing

Looks cool as... its bound to be top heavy... i know the rack and lights look cool but with those and the accessories your going to need a decent amount of low down weight to counter act it. I'm running a rack and light bar on the roof of the silverado pickup shell on the SCX10 and that fell over all over the place until i weighted the wheels. If you havent already, try and get the battery down low too, that will help a lot.

Or as an alternative, do what i did... by 2nd hand off ebay, strip it down to parts for cleaning, servicing and greasing, then rebuild as you would with a kit and you have a fully running truck for less than a kit and all the bits you need to get it going. Depends if you have to have new or not. It didnt bother me as ive changed the truck so much it may as well have been my own from the start.

Nice work... like the look of this. something a bit different. Ive seen a lot of rigs running the front tyres backwards... on some tyres / setups it supposed to give better grip

yes, lower turn generally means more speed - in brushed motors

Depends on your budget i suppose, the choices are almost endless without knowing... I run a Novak brushed / 35t combo in my SCX10 and love it. Only advice i would give is to get a rebuildable motor, they cost a bit more from the outset but by rebuilding save you in the long run. The likes of igbandy is the source for that sort of thing

Last 3 pics... made me think "you wait for 1 honcho and 3 come along at once" ! Nice pics and lovely locations... always loved the lake district

I was going to throw up a link to a RCSparks video where he plasti dips his AE-2 ESC... the sealed box idea is probably better. I'm currently looking at water / weather proof boxes to house all of my electronics in, with looking at relocating the lipo to the front lower section of the chassis i should have enough room to house something big enough to put everything in and still run the body as is. One idea i did have was to use a lipo hard case - the actual hard shell but i dont know how safe / unsafe opening one of them up would be... i havent been able to find anywhere online where you can just buy a hard case for a 2S softpack !?

I ran one on mine for a little while... the previous owner had notched out the front of the body under the front bumper so the shell sat down onto the chassis rails I cut down 2 body posts, screwed them to the front chassis brace then drilled 2 holes in the front of the body (under the bumper) so i could use body pins to secure it. At the rear the previous owner had glued some round spacers into the roof of the shell and then used the high level body posts and this slotted into the spacers... is wasnt completely secure in the rear and would pop off if you rolled. With the front completely secure though it wasnt too bad. Here you can see the "spacers" in the rear roof of the shell that the high level posts fitted into Here you can see the notches and holes in the front under the bumper / bull bar thing The body in place - you cant see the pins behind the chopped down Honcho bumper HTH, Nige

Any ideas for an alternative to these? http://www.jevneracing.com/recon-brick-plate.html

Picked up some scale number plates for a laugh... dad also knocked a pit stand together for me too.

Ah yes... did read that, just forgot ! Shame... i've only ever heard good things about them, typical that all the best stuff has to be imported with high delivery charges eh !

Got my new foams from Crawler Innovations on Wednesday... really impressed with the speed of delivery, quoted 3-5 weeks on ordering (wasnt in a rush anyway) but ordered on the 10th April, shipped on the 15th and arrived here on the 23rd... bonus that they slipped through customs too Anyway, i went for the Lil Nova 2 stage foams in a 4.50T with the soft outer foam - http://www.crawlerinnovations.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=356&category_id=10&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=64 I'd seen mention of these working best with the Rock Beast tyres i am running and also a lot of recommendation to vent the tyres (even from Eddie at CI) but for now i have decided to leave them sealed and see how things work out. First impressions, the side wall strength of these foams compared to the Pit Bull foams is vastly increased... like double the stiffness in the walls of the tyres... im hoping this improves side hilling and control under big articulation. The actual tread "face" on the tyre is nice and soft and pliable so grip levels should still be high. I havent had chance to get out with the truck since fitting them but will report back on how i get on. If anyone has any thoughts on the venting thing then let me know, i wasnt keen on just jumping into it as i didnt want to wreck a set of fairly expensive tyres that you cant buy in the UK ! Thanks, Nige

Awesome... not sure if i missed it, but what happened to the HH motor ? i thought they were nigh on bullet proof !?

If you haven't already, check the Wraith build that AJ has done on this section... its probably the most thorough and detailed Wraith i have seen.

Cool

Mine wasn't no... Radshape kit... I have mine installed conventionally and it works well... will have to look more into that method above, see if i can see how it works.

When i installed mine i noticed it snagged a tiny bit on the chassis brace just above the servo... a tiny trim of that brace sorted it out. I've also since installed a lift kit which on the middle setting isnt too high but means zero binding anywhere and a nice articulation.

Looks perfect... really impressed with how the stretched Honcho has worked on there...