danb1974

You can control them using extra channels of your remote (if your radio has more than 2 channels), using a "receiver controlled switch" or "rc switch" or whatever it's called - it's a little electronic thingie that is connected between a free rx channel and the controlled device (lights) Or you can use a more expensive light control unit that also monitors throttle and steering to control brake and turn lights

On newer receivers the batt socket is just a regular socket with no signal channel on it - used to power lights, fans, transponder etc. On old receivers with internal bec is another story, you would power the receiver on the batt channel with full battery voltage and not from esc - you would usually pair such a receiver with a no-bec esc (like, tamiya 101-104bk) and the receiver would send 5v to esc Yes a Y connector will help you, on any channel (throttle or steering) and the lights should not interfere

Best (collective pitch) sim is a tamed down mcpx over tall grass

There should be the cheaper DIB ver. RS with more plastic parts and the standard expensive carbon and alu DIB Read somewhere that even the cheaper (cheaper relative to it's brother) RS is a good drifter.

If you afford go yokomo, if not mst. If on really tight budget and don't mind fixing a few weak spots, try the d3.

If you want to fly blade bnf micros, you need spektrum radio dx6i is the entry level programmable tx, dx7 is better, dx8 even better, it's down to how much money you want to spend

This is rwd drifting. Insane steering angle, gyro (at least at start), carefully choosing tires (may need different compound front vs. rear) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BA_qNvX5LsA

Riiight, that's what they said about mcpx brushed, while they were clearing stocks at half price Watch the price, when it drops significantly, then it's about to get discontinued

As atom3624 said wrong paint type (abs vs lexan)? I painted only one shell no previous experience with only prep being washing with dishwashing liquid, drying and not touching afterwards. Badly painted, too thick in some places, painted in low temps (basement, not heated). Pieces flex at 90 degrees and paint did not even crack not even a tiny one. I'm still amazed, really good paint (tamiya).

Try to sell the 450 on specialized hobby forums with heli sections, not on ebay. Bonus no ridiculous ebay fees and buyers that destroy it than get a refund and you get a broken heli back. Also make it very clear once it's in the air, no refunds. Even new helis have only doa warranty, the second it has been spooled up, goodbye. Best would be to sell with buyer picking it up, to show him it's working. A noob with no cp flying experience will destroy it in a matter of seconds and then yell defective defective

I would get some hardcase lipo batteries. Check the size (especially height, to avoid hitting the belt) but I expect 2S 5000mAh to fit, will give you over an hour on one charge. The ones from which the cables exit on one end of the top plate are better because the way the battery mount is made. The brushless esc I expect it has lipo cutoff (just make sure it's activated from esc setup), but the lipo alarm certainly does not hurt Good choice of charger. To avoid stressing the balance connector on the charger, get a 2s balance lead extension and leave it plugged in the charger. Will also ease up hooking the battery to the charger. We usually solder the connector of choice (for example deans) on battery / esc / charging cable to avoid adapters, but that's for convenience, drifting does not require high amperage so no harm in using adapters, if you're not into soldering. Get at least two sets of different drift tires, softer and harder (for example mst red dot 101024 and silver dot 101026), and enough rims for all of them. When playing choose the one that feels best depending on surface and temperature. Practice, practice, practice.

I found out that after a while I wanted more wheel speed and went up on the pinion. Also not afraid to use full throttle. Yes I can initiate a drift at very low throttle but it got boring fast. Depends on how much traction you have (given by surface and chosen tires), you can go anywhere between very slippery surface + slow drift to higher bite surface + aggressive higher speed drift, lots of throttle mst has a really big selection of drift tires from very soft to very hard. Good thing is, once you know which one is good for you, you can order the exact same one the next time. Two most important things imho are correct selection of tires (depending on the surface and temperature) and chassis setup - not to perfection, just to the point it does what you tell it, not what it wants - the point at which you cannot spin out, just overthrow the back but catch it On hard sufaces (asphalt and alike) the easiest way to mess up is to set different camber for front and back, this makes the car uncontrollable. Just leave 0 all around and play with rear suspension until the car behaves. Also if you diff out (a usually front wheel stops spinning during the drift) you will spin out the car. On dedicated drift cars they use locked diff in the rear and one way in the front so they don't have this issue.

I never calibrate such a beast on it's wheels. Also when I switch on (I have a rival, 6kg on "just" 4S and not even able to do backflips due to center diff), I hold it by the roll bar, wheels in the air, until the esc has armed.

I wouldn't call an all-plastic drivetrain robust. Light, yes. Efficient? With bushings coming as stock? Nope.

For drift, if you want brushless, around 10.5T sensored

Probably a slight mistranslation or engrish Quote from tamiya site: Drive type: shaft Drive line: dog bone Differential type: gear

Better how than a TC4?

If you want a tt, get the tt-02 type s, it contains a lot of needed upgrades (including oil shocks, metal cups, turnbuckles)

The video memory is not in the radeon chip but as separate memory chips around it.

You can try with coating the electronic board with some protective spray. At work I have some called plastik 70, here is a quote from the description. Probably there are better options. I'd do like 3 coats to be sure, just keep the connectors covered so they do not get sprayed. PLASTIK 70 is a fast drying, transparent, acrylic coating, with good dielectric properties. It shields printed circuit boards or other parts from corrosive (atmospheric) influences. This film protects printed circuit boards from leakage currents and short circuits. But yeah a wp box is best

Only throttle acting up, or does the steering act too? Receiver antenna intact?

How did you fit the 4S? I use a 6600 2S and it only fits through the windshield, with the interior removed

If you like to build, a tb-04 kit may be nice and not completely wipe out your wallet (sadly not many kits nowadays) If you want a good looking entry level rtr, vaterra v100 or kyosho fazer ve series have very nice body shells

+1 You used a 1/10 combo in a 1/8 offroad car (that is twice as heavy as the cars the combo was intended for) You need something on the lines of 4S (2x2S) setup with a 2000kV-ish big can (4074 or around) motor and an 120Amps 1/8 esc

Check modelsport site to get an idea of the price