Rich8

Most people flying fpv are doing it illegally simply due to the vtx. Anyone can use power up to 25mw if using 5.8ghz, that's fine. NO-ONE can legally use a vtx on a quad/rotorcraft/UVA/whatever pushing out any more than that. A ham licence (even an intermediate licence) lets you transmit on 5.8ghz at way more power than that, but licence conditions specifically prohibit transmitting from an airborne craft (cars, boats, fields all ok. Anything airborne - nope).

I think savage springs fit. They are longer than s50 springs so act like its got lots of preload.

In parallel will still work, just more chance of it causing running problems that's all. In any case, fixing the second tank to the chassis is the time consuming bit. Re-routing some fuel pipe is the work of moments, so you could switch it in minutes if you wanted.

Exhaust to inlet of tank 1, outlet of tank 1 to inlet of tank 2, outlet of tank 2 into carb. No t-junctions anywhere.

Hi, been on hols so a bit late in on this thread. About time the MTA4 population increased a bit! In case I'm not too late and it's already been done, whoever was doing twin tank mods, I'd recommend running the tanks in series (rather than parallel with a t-junction). Simpler pipework, less chance of air leaks developing as less junctions. Also if in parallel and one of the two tanks runs out before the other it just starts introducing bubbles into the fuel line and buggering your tune. Rig them in series is the way forward. It is generally accepted that the thunder tiger manuals are terrible and say all kinds of crap. The favourite is the fact that the MSN is marked as the LSN in one or two of the pictures. If anyone having trouble tuning and hasn't been told or figured it out, hsn is big copper screw, MSN is the large silver screw that's easily accessible on the side of the carb (don't touch it), and the LSN is the little back screw in the grommet on the opposite side of the carb to the MSN, where the throttle linkage attaches to the carb - right under the air filter so hard to get at. Lots of people start off merrily tuning away on the MSN thinking its the LSN and not understanding why things arnt having the effect they should.

Non braked? How does that work on a nitro? I don't understand. I can't help you at all, but really want to see a picture of your car to sate my own curiosity.

S50 has tougher internals than the s28 to cope with the bigger torque of the engine. You'll need to upgrade more than just the engine if you looking at putting an s50 engine in a s28 - otherwise it will just shred itself to bits.. Spur gear and some of the gearbox internals steel rather than plastic on the s50, also updated brakes, bigger wheel hexes and a few other little things. To do something that will last its quite an in-depth operation, and if you looking at just getting a whole s50 gearbox they ain't cheap (

I'd have to agree with fatboyneil. That sounds like symptom of too big a carb gap masking too rich LSN. Lean your LSN slightly, then take for a run and bring it back in. You should find it takes a bit longer to settle into the lower rev 4 stroke idle. Keep doing that leaning the LSN a small bit at a time until when you bring it in the revs don't drop at all and just stay at that higher revs. That's your true idle. Now reduce your carb gap down to reduce the revs to a reasonable speed for zero throttle and your sorted.

I made mine by going to vgracing.com and giving them my credit card details. Worked out about

The leaning back of the towers is caller caster (often spoken about in conjunction with camber and toe-in). Helps steering to self-centre. That's why it only has it on the front and not the back.

I'm increasingly finding myself going on US sites for TA MGT8.0 bits. Modelsport always used to stock the basics, but the last few times they have been out of stock on the things I need and I have waited over three months on one occassion for stock to come in (drive cup screws. I now have loads due to ordering from several places out of frustration in the hope someone would get stock in sooner. At least I'll never be laid up waiting for drive cup screws again!).

I'll second anthoop. If revs rising its because its lean, not rich. If its doing it at idle, then the LSN needs to be richened out (HSN might need richening too, but LSN controls fuel flow at idle so that needs richening first before you do anything else). Also possible that its an air leak somewhere. Start with richening LSN tho.

If you've had the carb off and twiddled all the screws your best bet will be to set all needles back to factory and retune from there. If you have turned all needles by undetermined amounts you have virtually no chance of working from there back to a good tune, only real option is to reset everything and start over. Taking the carb off and putting it back on again would prompt me to retune from factory settings in any case, even if i hadn't played with any of the needles.

If the revs are rising on their own at idle without you touching anything its because the low end mixture is too lean. Trims on the tx won't help that. You need to richen your LSN a touch. If the revs start to rise it means something is changing. theres on,y two options: either increasingly more air is being added to the mix; or decreasingly less fuel. For increasingly more air to be added, something needs to be slowly increasing your carb gap without you touching anything, aside from a freak electrics glitch I can't think of anything that would do that. Other option is the amount of fuel in the low end mix is being reduced - I.e. the LSN is too lean and each time the piston fires there is a little less unburnt fuel left in the system for the next cycle so the next time the piston fires its a little leaner, then so on. The mixture gets leaner and leaner and the revs start to rise before eventually flaming out and stalling. Option b is a million times more likely than option a.

You not maybe just underestimating the strength of your servo? It does take a hell of a lot of force to move one by hand and the servo saver is supposed to give out before enough force is transmitted to it to turn it against its will. The steering upgrade won't help what you are after. I have both the steering upgrade and the stock servo saver on mine (thought why not leave the stock one on there too when I installed steering upgrade - better safe than sorry eh?) and the stock is the stiffer of the two - the coil spring setup in the steering upgrade gives out first. Unless you crank it right up to the max, and then it just doesn't do the job its intended to do so is pointless. The dudes draglink is a better (and cheaper) option to increase your steering lock, but with a MT that heavy with high cofg and relatively spongy shock setup, acceleration will put all that weight over the rear wheels and none over the front so no traction to turn it at high speed. Big mt tyres with flexible side walls don't help. Neither does the gyroscopic effect of the big wheels. Truck like this is just not really designed for high speed cornering and as a result doesn't do it too well. Come sharp off the throttle for an instant or dab the brakes and send some of that weight back to the front wheels and you'll get a lot more response from your steering at higher speeds/acceleration. So much so its quite easy to just roll it if you overdo it.

Does the se come with the factory team alloy steering setup with the built in servo saver spring? If so you can tighten the bolt on it to compress the coil spring more and give more resistance. Bolt is not easy to get at without removing a few parts unless you have tiny fingers. Pretty easy to see tho if you have a look at the steering assembly. If its just the plastic steering setup with no saver in it like the bog standard s50, and just has the three metal curved plates around the plastic bit (torsion spring?) that just pushes straight onto the servo spindle, then I'd be surprised if that was moving enough to give you full lock, they are tough and just don't budge that much unless they are bust.

How and when is it cutting out? Just on idle? When trying to pull away? Mid acceleration? During wot runs? Are the revs rising and it just puffing out? Or is it getting groggy and spluttering out? Or is it more of a instant mechanical stop. Stopping dead as though something has physically stopped the piston or other part of the drivetrain?

Some parts just harder to get hold of than others. Gearbox is one of them, and I've only ever seen them for

Got my cage from vgracing.com Its heavy and does bend with enough heavy hits. But bending tendency reduced by a couple of cable ties attaching roll hoop where it touches the roof of the cage (didn't remove roll hoop to fit the cage) and bent cage easily sorted out at the end of the day with some choice clouts with a rubber mallet. It has done its job perfectly over last three years as no matter the punishment I am yet to damage anything that sits within the cage.

Also check your forward and reverse shifter is hitting the gears home properly. Push it home by hand to make sure it is engaging properly and try it - could just need some adjustment to the linkage. Check the slipper clutch isn't too loose and just spinning. Checking those two things doesn't require taking it to bits too much so eliminate them first. Assuming its the same setup as the s50, which I'm sure it is, you won't need to take the engine out to get the clutch bell off and get to the shoes - you should be able to manage just by taking the spur gear and braket off.

Yep, I run byrons 25% - good. Started off trying to run it on the modeltechnics stuff they sell in modelzone - not good.

Where did you get a new gearbox from so quick? And may I ask how much it cost? :-)

Don't put second tank on until you have broken in your engine. You will have a frustrating time as it is with break in so don't add potential problems for yourself with air leaks etc until its done and out of the way. Shock springs and caps will be handy from the get go. Don't have a cage on when doing break in either. Extra strain on the engine not good.(Be aware also that the cage does blunt performance noticeably, my priority was making as tuff as possible coz I like to punish it, so was happy to sacrifice a bit of acceleration (and braking, and jumping). Its a lot to spend if that's not your aim).

If its 5 mins or less its still probably a bit on the rich side (no bad thing if its still a fairly new engine). Mine is a well worn in engine and I def get more than 5 mins a tank, I've never really timed it but it must be about 10. But yeah, twin tank is on my list. Got as far as ordering second tank to do it, and then whilst waiting for it to come through the post the filler lid slipped out of my hand whilst filling up and snapped back and split the neck of my original tank (I didn't notice the damage til I saw a fountain of nitro pissing out the side as I throttled away after filling up). So when it arrived in the post about 4 days later it just replaced the original - still just got one :-( That was last summer. Still not got round to ordering another. Might do it now.

Agree 100% - I would always recommend paying the extra for the s50. Everyone who buys an s28 then seems to spend four times the difference in cost upgrading it to s50 spec! (Minus the monster engine). Cage didn't solve the shock tower/body post problem completely in itself. Towers were protected, but still bends up the body posts when it goes on its roof. Solved that by attaching the shell to the cage and doing away with body posts altogether. Dudes draglink - yep, get one. Fail safe - comes with one. Hump pack - yep, get one. Beefy steering servo - I'm still running the stock one and I'm happy with it. Never had a need to improve it. Not a cheap upgrade either so see how you go with that one. You might be content as is.