Rhum51

i'm looking at selling my vantage if anyone is interested. i'll take some pictures and mail me if you're interested and i'll mail you some pictures then you can make me an offer! ) there will be lots of spares!

these any good? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M3-GWR-Colourfast-Stainless-Countersunk-Screws-5Pk-Black-Blue-Red-Green-Copper-/280751047946?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=580048473013&hash=item415e11050a

i get all mine stainless from ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/m3-3mm-a2-stainless-steel-socket-csk-countersunk-allen-bolts-screws-/261018721589?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=560118853993&hash=item3cc5ed9d35 this is only 1 example... there are plenty more.

you got some pictures you can post to show us?

ohhhh... mine did that pretty much out of the box!!! at the time i took it back to modelzone and the guy fixed it. that was my first rc so i did tinker with the servo. get a spare 1 coz i think the gears are chewed! for the saddle, you can reconvert it to saddle config but you will need to move the esc around. Personally i would not use saddle pack since they seem a bit more expensive.

the ESC has the voltage cut off built in but will need to be anabled via a program card. since on your picture you seem to have an NiMh pack. Lipo is well worth it on this car! huge difference!

this on as shown in the pictures is a BSD 1/10th. not quite the ftx though it shares the same parts. for spares, go to CenturyUK http://www.centuryuk.com/Spares/Car-Spares/BSD-Car-Spares/Electric-Compression-10th or blacksmith products. the ftx has a saddle pack config for the battery and the bsd takes a stick. it can take std 2s lipo.... i have turnigy hard case 5Ah sticks in mine. in general it's a good care but be prepared to unbend the blue aluminium plate on a regular basis if you take jumps. they retail for

ftx brushless is dean connectors.... i use dean in ftx and bullet in my other cars. if i need to swap batteries, i made up a connector from dean to bullet.

there is tynemet college on monday night for touring 1/10 and buggy 1/10 there is seaham on sunday night 1/10 buggy summer time you will have dynamix on sunday 1/10 buggies and tuesdays(i think) check oople for further info

Steer away from tamyia connectors. you are better off changing the connector on the esc and stick with bullets on lipo. bullets are a lot easier to change than tamyias'. i switched to bullet when my tamyias were melting on the nimh batteries.

yup! definitely otherwise you wont be able to balance the battery.

i agree with the 5s conversion! you would need to find an identical cell and ideally with a similar count of cycles. if you doant, it will remain unbalanced.

what i've done in the past is to strip the elecrtics and used the hose to remove the salty water. if you have a compressor then you can dry it straight away. this will remove most of the sand. once it was all dry, i used a brush and a bit of wd40 everywhere where there is metal! makes plastics look nice too! during that time of cleaning you will have had the battery on charge and then you can have a good spin in the street to dry it off properly (provided the weather is fairly dry! good luck with that 1 ! lol) then.... back on the shelf till next run!

have a look at this site, they give some good info on making packs... http://cellpacksolutions.com/battery-pack-engineering/index.asp

personally i would go for a little bit heavier than that. 6kg would be better. you also need to keep an eye on the speed of the servo. from memory, you need to look at something like 11-13ms this mamba is a very good system but it seems a bit of an overkill for the vantage. you would be better of getting a cheaper system but sensored.

I've raced mine and i wasnt too ridiculous considering my driving skills! However you will need the following: lower turn motor than stock: i have 9t different servo: stock one is too slow steering setup to achieve tighter turns (see 1 of my post in this thread http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/138437-ftx-vantagecarnage-owners-thread/page__st__360#entry1439691) tyres adapted to your surface:stock ones are only good for bashing. if you can afford the carbon fibre top deck and suspension tower, it will break less! Also, depending on surface, lowering chassis can be a challenge with stock suspensions. for 3s.... yes it is very fast and hard to handle but since it is not allowed for racing in brca 1/10th, i wouldn't bother.

Nice one! i'm definitely gonna keep an eye on your updates. Sorry i didnt look but did you check out the northeast bashers section? plenty guys there bashing at the gilesgate/belmont park! i'm sure they will be interested in another spot!

That's a very nice video! good find! very nice touch on the video editing as well as the choregraphy!

mine for the vantage came with everything

i agree!!!

giv me your email adress and i'll mail u both carnage and vantage manual. i'll let you do the comparison work!

As far as my car (vantage) is concerned, i have the slipper clutch tight. i never noticed any slippage. Do i need some? i mainly run it in racing mode so i'm not sure i need to distribute the power. even then, i dont like the idea of using friction like that for distributing the power. with the friction, i believe it would not be a smooth transition between the slipping and not slipping movement. i think the vantage is light enough to have a locked slipping clutch. the diffs do a decent job! regerding servo, i havent broken 1 yet.... only the servo arm got stripped once. i replaced it by one of the servo arm that came with the spare servo i bought!

another link for a cheap servo... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200653215859?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_2444wt_1271 i havent got one personally but could be handy as a spare to keep in the toolbox.... i bought stuff from this seller; ie http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-in-1-Hex-Screw-Driver-Tools-Set-1-5-2-2-5-3mm-for-RC-Helicopter-Car-/200698376962?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item2eba8e3302 and its still doing a decent job!

For wheels, look for a more general threads in MSUK there are a few. Everybody suffers ballooning with stock wheels. i've seen a lot of ppl mentioning the gorilla tape inside the tyre as being the best to prevent it. as for your overheating problem, you might want to go back to basics with pinion and spur and check the gearing guide and follow the rules for esc or motor or both running too hot.

I wouldnt repair the servo. they are cheap enough (less than