Slugsie

In case you weren't aware the Absima CR4T is a clone and is available from ModelSport. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/absima-cr4t-afhds-2.4ghz-4-channel-radio-system/rc-car-products/373631 Got one, and it's very good.

I probably won't know if I can make Thursday until Thursday. Got a bit of work on Wednesday that may well spill over, plus I also have a big delivery due.

You should dismantle the diff first before buying a new one, just in case that isn't the problem. Even if it is chances are you've just broken the internal diff gears which are about

I have a couple of AA battery holders, 2, 4, and 6, that have clips similar to a 9v battery on them. I also have a lead that ends in the same clip that goes into my charger. Charges no problem, but as suicideneil said, don't try and charge at anything over 500mah because they don't tend to like it much. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-AA-Battery-Holder-Box-Pack-of-2-/121130352913

A broken diff is a likely cause. If you lock all the diffs you shouldn't be able to spin any of the wheels by hand independently. If you can then the diff is likely not happy.

The motor is 120amp peak, not constant. If it was constant 120amp you would struggle to get 2.5minutes of run time out of a 5000mah battery. Most of the time even high powered setups are coasting along at 10amps or less. If you can get 20 minutes run-time out of a 5000mah battery you are averaging about 16amps. If you consider that hard acceleration is what gives you peaks around the 100amp+ mark then most of the time it's a lot less. End of the day, the 30C are a great match for the motor and the XS.

There is a spring mechanism which presses the selector, so unless the mechanism is in the right place it won't 'snap' in, it should also keep the stress on the servo low when it can't engage. It also tends not to snap in under power, so I find a bit of gentle throttle or coasting works best. If you want to be really adventurous you can drive along in low gear, keeping the throttle planted, switch to high gear which won't engage, until you blip the throttle and then take off at high speed. Probably not the best idea to do that too often though.

Unlikely at the moment, I have to wait in for an important delivery, and as usual all I know is that it'll be between 9am and 5pm.

This is how well a BL sensored Summit crawls With that combo I can pull wheelies and stoppies without much difficulty.

The dual rate should be set at whatever you want it set to. Mostly leave it at 100 unless you need to change it. Dual rate is for limiting the overall range of motion of a servo within the limits set by the endpoints. So you set everything to 100%. Then adjust the endpoints so they max out at where the servos finish (to stop them over turning the servo or pushing steering parts past their end). Then if you need to dial back the steering you would dial the dual rate down from there.

Set the end points and dual rate to 100% for testing. Also try the steering servo in another channel like the throttle channel.

That's a shame, if it's setup correctly the little servos are under virtually no stress and should last forever. Was it new or second hand? If you think changing the servo is awkward, look into changing the front diff, that's a real pig unfortunately. Still the grin you get when driving more than makes up for it.

I've had mine a while now, and it's probably my most used RC. It's also the one I've probably broken the least on. So far all I've broken is a front diff output shaft, and front diff gears. Mines converted to a middling BL setup, so not too stressed. I reckon the Summit is reasonably strong, but not indestructible. It's like anything, occasionally someone will get a bad one, or push it beyond it's limits, then shout to the whole world about it. But everyone else who has a good experience tends to just gets on with it. If you want a Summit, get a Summit. Nothing else quite like it, and you will enjoy it.

Cool, nice meter. Still, those Gens Ace batteries are rated for 159amp continuous, with probably double that burst, and your motor is rated for about 120amp. The batteries are well suited for the motor.

Quick Googling suggests the motor has a burst amp draw of around 120amps. The SC8 is rated for 120amp continuous. The Gens Ace are rated for 159amp continuous (5300 * 30 / 1000), so you have plenty of headroom there. It'd be a pretty hefty millimetre to measure the current draw of an RC car. Most are rated to 10amp, maybe 20amp. Not even slightly close to the 120amp here. Plus the max amp draw will be very short and unless you have a peak hold you'd probably not spot it anyway.

That sounds like you're getting the well known 'issue' with HW ESCs being a little too aggressive with their LV cutoff. Try lowering the cutoff point, maybe as low as 3v, and see what happens. If you have a lipo alarm then disable the LV on the esc and use that. Basically, under load, the voltage in the LIPO drops - this is normal. But if the ESC is a little too eager, and the LV is set too high, the ESC will think you've hit cut off and then stop - exactly as it should. A few seconds later (before you could manually check) the LIPO has recovered, is giving enough volts, so the ESC gets back to full power again.

Well, first lesson learned. I was testing out the telemetry sensors. Plugged the voltage sensor in, then plugged the leads into two points on the balance plug on the LIPO. Seconds later the sensor leads are red hot, and I'm desperately trying to remove them without burning myself badly - I failed. After a couple moments, as I was sucking on a very sore and burned finger I realised what I had done wrong. Because on this car (my Hyper 7) I regularly change between 3S and 5S I had decided to set the voltage alarms based on a 1S reading. I then plugged into the *last* cell on the battery instead of the *first*, which when I thought about it almost certainly resulted in a short circuit and a 3S 8400mah battery trying to discharge though roughly 24gauge wire. There is no explicit indication in the manual as to which points on the balance plug you should connect to, so that possibility hadn't occurred to me at first. A quick inspection of the sensor module showed that it was probably just the wires that had burned, everything else looked fine. Five minutes to solder in some new wires and it was working as it should do. I've also tried the optical speed sensor, and I can't get it to work at all. It says that the sensor should be within 2mm of the surface - check, and there should be a mark (black on a white wheel it suggests) as wide as the sensor head - check. But nothing. I suspect that I have a dodgy sensor though. I have one of the magnetic sensors on order, we'll see if that's any better. Of course the real world usefulness of a speed sensor is questionable, especially in comparison to temperature and voltage which are genuinely useful.

Today I received my new radio system, the Absima CR4T+. This is the updated version of the CR4T (there is no external labelling of the '+', but it is mentioned on the box), which is a clone of the FlySky FS-iT4, and Carson do a variant too I believe. I chose the Absima variant as to me it's by far the better looking one. Here is my initial review - from a bashers perspective. The main change in the CR4T+ over the older CR4T is that it can bind to multiple R4FS receivers (should also be compatible with the FlySky version - FS-iR4, I have one on order but not received yet), these are the 4 channel receivers with telemetry. The initial release of these radios could only bind to a single telemetry receiver at a time, which to me is a bit of a pain. This has now been fixed, but from reading around it's required a hardware change, so older models possibly won't get this fix. In addition to this it can also be set to bind with the FS-GR3C line of receivers from the FlySky GT3B/C line of transmitters of which I have several (I've seen mention that this might be a feature only the Absima has). The FS-iR4 receivers can be had for a little over

Weather forecast for tomorrow isn't looking too clever, plus my Summit is still broken - waiting for the diff seals to come back in stock. Unless it changes a lot I can't see me being out tomorrow.

It's probably an M2.5x3 counter sunk, at least that's what is on my EzRun 3000kv motor.

Just finished stripping down the Summit and the Slash. The Slash was just a couple of loose grub screws on a rear driveshaft, so easy enough. The Summit however managed to grenade the front diff, so I'm going to have to replace most of the internals for it. Bits ordered from MS, but one part is out of stock, so the Summit may not be ready for next week.

Nope, big at the front.

Quick video of Leon's XS jumping the fence...

A good bit of playing today, with damage all round! My Slash lost rear wheel drive, and the Summit was down to 3 wheel drive by the end. It's not a good bash unless something gets broken.

Sorry, no 3S with deans.