Slugsie

Hmm, I wonder what hardware the vet used? Hex heads maybe, what size? Do they have a supplier of quality parts that won't rust? Oh, and poor kitty, but I think the skinhead (skinass???) look suits, pulling the ladies in no time.

If you read the description, making the terminals swap sides is actually the point. If for some reason you need +ve on the left then use the batteries one way, if you need +ve on the right just flip the battery over. Not really sure how often that sort of thing is an issue, but that's the reasoning behind it.

Another Summit owner here, mine is definitely my go-to RC. If I want fast I have a Hyper 7e, or a Slash 4x4, or a Savage XS, or a Hyper 10 TT - great cars all, but none of them bring a smile to my face quite as much as a Summit squatting under acceleration, or doing a front roll on hard braking, or rolling onto 2 wheels on hard turns. At low speed it goes over pretty much everything that my Wraith goes over. I've even had it on the skate park jumping stuff with ease. It's just a great all-rounder. I have done a BL conversion using an XeRun 150amp ESC with a Sky RC Toro 4pole sensored 2000kv motor with 16t pinion. It's got the low speed control of brushed, just way more power. I can climb a 45degree slope in high gear at low speed with no cogging, very impressive. I've also fitted a Dusty Motors cover to keep the crap out, and grabbed a set of Trencher Xs. Other than that it's stock. Only breakages so far have been bits of the front diff. I snapped an output shaft, and lunched the diff gears. Nothing major, just a bit of a ball-ache to fix as you have to disassemble most of the front end to get the diff out. Still trying to work out a reliable method of mounting a GoPro to get good video without it wobbling all over the place. If anyone has any suggestions I'd love to hear them. At the end of the day, if I decided that I had to sell up and only have one RC, the Summit would stay - no hesitations.

Same, here. I had a Dusty Motors cover for my original Slash chassis, and liked it so when I did the LCG conversion I bought the LCG cover to go with it. Makes the cleaning up process afterwards so much easier.

I haven't used mine that much recently unfortunately, and yes it does seem to use a fair bit of battery power. The supplied batteries are only 1000mah which is dreadful, so I'm using some Eneloops that are 2400mah iirc, so much better. I'm not really sure of the advantages of using a lipo anyway, a 1300mah lipo only provides 30% more capacity than the 1000mah AAs, and because it's at a higher voltage you'll lose more from heat in the voltage regulator.

The hard case pack is 60c not 40c, there is an error in the description as it says 60c in the pic and in two parts of the description.

The difference in price is due to the Nano-tech being Turnigys premium brand name (with A Spec Nanotech their super premium). They are better made, higher quality. blah blah blah. The difference in C ratings is minimal, 60c vs 65c (300amp vs 325amp continuous discharge). If you're hard-core racing, you might notice/value the extra, but otherwise you probably won't.

Thanks for the pointers, looking forward to good weather over the next few days so I can practise.

Astro file manager (one of the best file managers on Android) with the Astro Bluetooth add-on that's what I use when things like Google Drive or Dropbox etc aren't available - like in the field with no wifi connection. Or you could try the Astro SMB addon to use wifi if you create an adhock wifi network between the devices, although I haven't actually tried that method.

Thanks for the response, and the pointers. However, for the vast majority of the flight I had it in 'idiot pilot' mode where the computer works most of the stuff out for you. I.e. the throttle isn't really a throttle, it's a height setting - you set the stick to middle, and it hovers to roughly 20m and stays there. You set to max and it goes to 40m and stays there. The right stick, if you move it left/right the quad flies in a left/right circle around the start location. Forward/backward moves it away and towards the start. All this happens irrespective of which way the quad is facing. It really makes it dead easy to fly, although it does take away any skill. I did do a second flight (without camera) half of which was more under more normal control, whereby I did increase throttle while pitching, and I did fly circles (not figure 8s) getting the heading more or less correct. I've been thinking of plenty of local spots I'd like to 'survey' when I have more skill, so there is definitely an incentive to get better. One spot is a local park with a full size model Spitfire on a pole, that should be interesting. But it's right next to a lake, so one wrong move and I'll have a sub-quad.

Get one then. So far I'm very happy with mine, and planning some interesting places to fly and film when I get a bit more confident with the controls. There is a copper backed board standing up on the right of the battery tray which I presume is the GPS receiver. So I guess that means I have the v2 model, just not the v2 firmware despite that being mentioned quite prominently on the box.

According to Hobbywing the 4000kv 3656 motor is rated for 3S, but the 4700kv 3656 motor isn't: http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=277 That suggests that the maximum rated speed is probably around 50,000rpm (4000kv x 12.6v = 50,400 rpm, 4700kv x 12.6v = 59,220rpm). However, once it's all mounted up to a car, and turning stuff, there is no way a motor will reach actual maximum revs. I reckon if you dial back maximum throttle by 5-10% you are probably safe enough.

Picked up a Blade 350QX yesterday, and managed to get out today for a first flight. Never flown a quad before, and this is super easy. One problem though. This was sold and labelled on the box as the new v2 firmware model. However it doesn't respond to the v2 startup sequence (both sticks to inner bottom), but it does respond to the v1 sequence (left stick to bottom left then right). I've spoken to the shop I got it from and they said to bring it in and they can check and update if necessary, so that's not too bad. However it's just far enough away that the cost of getting there and back plus an hour of my time isn't far off the cost of buying the upgrade interface and doing it myself. Plus if there is ever a v3 firmware I'll need the interface anyway.

Would you consider splitting the axles? I'm after a complete front axle if possible.

Surely a 2x2 is a motorcycle? A 4x2 is a car with 4 wheels, 2 of which are powered. So given the options definitely a 4x4 (4 wheels, all 4 of which are powered).

I can see what you mean, but if you look at the first picture and the video it does seem like they have set the camera to point down a bit. Point it back up and it'll probably be a lot better.

I'll be in the area again in a couple weeks (I was camping over the weekend so not local), and I'll have another look. The spot is very off the beaten track so highly unlikely that anyone else will come across it, it'll likely be there for years if I can't find it. It was the Hubsan FPV Helicopter http://www.hubsan.com/products/FPV/H102F.htm an early one that has the FPV camera, but not recording capability. I didn't pay full price as I got it second hand off ebay, but it still wasn't cheap. This has really put me off air r/c now. I've had several of the toy dual rotors that I found uncontrollable. I had the Hubsan mini quad that was also uncontrollable. I bought a fixed wing supposed RTF that needed so much done to it before I would even slightly consider trying to fly it that I never did. Now this. I think I'll stick to ground vehicles for now.

Took my Hubsan FPV helicopter out for only the second time today. Sheltered spot, no wind, and plenty of space. Great for me to learn how to fly it I thought. Got it just off the ground, and trimmed up, then took it a little higher. At which point it seemed to stop responding to any attitude adjustment and just kept climbing. Backed off the throttle a bit, still climbing. By this time it's maybe 50ft in the air, and 100ft+ away. Killed the throttle, and it came down ... somewhere. In long grass and amongst some trees. Spent a good half hour searching, as did my daughter. Never found it. Lost a good chunk of change there. Looks like I have a Hubsan FPV transmitter going spare now.

The only problem with going out tomorrow is that it's Spring, and a school holiday, so will be really busy with people just lounging around getting ****** when an RC runs over their cucumber sandwiches on their picnic rug.

Cut them off.

No problem. I think it's a little unfair to just label them as 'copies'. They are fully licensed clones, with a few minor differences (Carson also do a clone version). One difference that I am aware of is that the CR4T definitely has the option of using the older AFDHS receivers, whereas the FlySky might not (they're specifically mentioned as not compatible on the FlySky website). I chose the Absima version as I don't like the looks of the FlySky FS-iT4, it's a bit too gaudy for my tastes. Is you get a CR3P or FS-GT3B/C I'm pretty confident that you will be very happy with your purchase.

It depends what you want from the transmitter. I have a CR4T (clone of the FlySky FS-IT4) and a FlySky FS-GT3B (the CR3P is a clone of this), and they're both great handsets. If you just want to control up to 10 models with 3 channels (how many models use more than 2 channels?) with plenty of adjustments then the GT3B/CR3T is a superb transmitter. However if you think you'll need the extra channel (say for 4 wheel steer and dig on a crawler for instance) or you think the telemetry is useful (forget the speed telemetry, it's unreliable at best from my tests, but voltage and temperature feedback in realtime is nice), or you have more than 10 models then you may find the extra expense worthwhile. The FS-GT3B/Cs can be had for around

I was a fan of Ultimate Warrior back in the day, much better and more entertaining that Hulk Hogan. Glad he got in the Hall of Fame.

Bunch of GR-3C receivers on eBay for under a fiver delivered: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=gr-3c&_sop=15

Yes, there is an option that you can set for each model memory so you can switch between the newer AFSDH2 and older AFSDH receivers. Works just fine.