M1tchy

I use wheel for my scale truck, but a stick (planet T5) for my old Clod stick crawler as its moa, and also has rear steer. I tried a wheel tx for it but the stick was easier. When I raced there were (and still are) plenty of people using sticks, and they are quick drivers. I tried stick on one of my race cars, but didnt get on with it. Oh and wheel tend to be lighter and less bulky.

You can change to GBP in the top right. Seems odd to me that if you use the UK warehouse, the prices are still in dollars. Maybe they will actually wake up and sort it out one day.

Shocks maybe. and be sure to have some spur gears for spares. The rest of mine is stock and not had any problems yet.

They are good fun,just don't expect it to be like a 4 wheel drive. It's better on smoother surfaces. Dirt, gravel, sand are fun. It handles well stock, just be prepared to set the shocks up or change them. And spur gears are weak.

I don't know the controller or esc, but you possibly could limit the end point of the throttle to 50% on the controller, which would be the easiest way. If not, then some esc's can be set to a training mode.

You can get a dual balance board. which works by connecting 2 batteries in series (2s will be seen as 4s). I used to use one when I raced and charged 2 x 2s batteries. This kept the cells better balanced. Like this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Logic-RC-Dual-Pack-Balance-Board-XH-TP-BA2-3XHTP-/370962099667?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item565f106dd3 or just seen this. If you charger is 6s capable it will charge 3 2s at a time but only 2 x 3s. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ansmann-Racing-Multi-Balance-Board-EHR-15500003-C55155003-/370781914038?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item56545303b6

It might be a good idea to get a battery checker that will show the voltage on each cell. That way you can tell if the battery is faulty. Something like this is pretty cheap. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cell-Key-2s-6s-Lipo-Cell-checker-Easy-Simple-to-use-orangeRX-uk-/350746725624?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item51aa224cf8

download manual here http://www.hpiracing.com/assets/manuals/pdf/101707.pdf

I use the small 4 way tool that has fairly low leverage on the 1/10th stuff so it wont strip. Also use aluminium nyloc flanged nuts. If the thread strips it will be easier to replace the nut, rather than the axle thread.

If its the same tx, Is it bound to the rx? it might be worth rebinding.

I have a DX4s now. Previously owned a DX3s and a 3c. I haven't had any problems with range. I think range problems may be due to the way the rx aerial is placed. If its coiled into a receiver box with the end laid flat there might be issues. The telemetry rx is the SR3300T. I had one in a car I bought, but as it didnt have the sensor leads I never used it. Some opinions are that its not accurate, but if you could use it to compare with a hand held temp gun at least you would get a near guide. Dont know about the rpm sensor accuraccy, I guess you would have to trust it.

Caps lock off please!! You might need to calibrate the controller to the esc by the sound of it.

I'm surprised that you didn't have a good time racing. I only started after my nephew wanted to give it a try with his short course truck. Everyone was helpful, and it was a good laugh. An experience like you had would have put me off. Not all drivers are sponsored, and at club level they dont get free stuff, but do get a good discount on cars and parts. The reason for having the latest kit (in most cases), is to be competitive, and also racing is a huge strain on the cars anyway. Most buy a new their car at least every year (sometimes more often) as they are driven hard. However it not just the car, it's the driver as my nephew proved. I think I may have got to much into the club side of things. Being a committeee member, and doing work on the track can be pretty frustratiing as there are always a few ready to complain, but never help out. I might get back into racing in the future, but for now I'm happy building a scale truck and hammering my Glamis around.

I was talking to someone in the local club. His son is sponsored by Losi and just got the new electric 1/8 buggy. As he is sponsored, he gets good discount, but a car like his would cost around a grand with all the tekin esc/motor and tyres. That doesn't mean you have to spend that much to be competitive. My nephews was a damn good driver and beat a few other kids with his Ansmann buggy. He gave up racing as it was costing him too much money.

Good things about racing are learning how to set a car up. All the work on gearing, steering, suspension and geometry will come in handy even for bashing. Meeting like minded people who enjoy competing and some are also into other rc stuff such as boats, planes, heli's etc. The first time I drove on a track It was a strange experience as I wasn't used to being restricted to a certain space unlike bashing where you go where you want. Also don't be bothered by the speed of the regular racers. Some of them have been into it for years, so dont expect to win on your first visit!!

I got into racing about 2 years ago. I just turned up with a stampede vxl and had fun, then got 1/10 4wd buggy, eventually going to 1/8 trophy flux buggy and truggy. The racing was fun, but eventually the amount of time and money needed to get a competitive car put me off. There are good people around who will gladly help out with set up at the track, but also some idiots who think they are the best and know everything. I also got on the club committee which means more time at meetings and organising race days and maintaining the track (a dirt/grass that is sometime going to get astro on it). Eventually it was time to quit the whole scene. I learnt a lot and still in contact with the club, but prefer going out with my scale truck, or bashing with the glamis, foff truck or truggy. I can do that for 2 or 3 hours, then go do something else, rather than spend all day at a track and 2 or 3 days cleaning and repairing for the next weekend. If you do get into racing, give a bit of thought or even help the people who run the club/racing. It's sometimes a thankless task. Some people are only happy when they are moaning.

Try the hobbywing WP80. I had one in a short course truck with a 10.5 turn motor and it ran no problem. Good prices if you shop around http://www.giantshark.co.uk/product/171830/ezrun-wp-80a-sl-brushless-esc-for-1-10-car Lol you beat me to it!

Do you want 3 channels? The orange rx's are ok, but I have had some fall apart and one lost a couple of pins when I removed a lead.

I just get the scale truck out and go for a walk. It's lucky that I work shifts, so today is fiddle with the scaler and might get the old clod stick crawler out as it's not been used for a while. The Glamis is almost back together, but will leave that to the weekend to play with. I used to race, but it took up so much time if I went regularly, that I gave it up.It wasn't fun any more. Only me and my nephew seem to be into scale or crawling round here.

Dont know about the esc on this one, but the esc in the glamis uno is a hobbywing copy. The hobbywing program card works with it, except some of the settings aren't available.. Thinking of getting one of these as an xmas prezzie for myself. it wil be good to know how it holds up.

It looks as if they will work. Make sure you solder them the right way round though..Esc's don't like reverse polarity!!

Just to let you know. I am messing about with the transmission while its apart. I have found that the top shaft from an AX/SCX10 is the same diameter and similar length. The drive gear from the Glamis fits if turned around, but could do with the pin hole on the axial shaft being drilled out to suit the pin for the Glamis top gear. The Axial slipper assembly fits ok. This means that hopefully if all lines up, 32 pitch gears can be used from Associated NTC3 buggy can be used ( I did this with a foff truck I built).

I had a Carson. The same as a Kyosho 201, but with throttle limit on the panel as well. The Maverick 242 rx's work with it. By the sound of it the Absima would be the best bet as the Rx's are cheaper if you have more than 1 car to run.

Coffee that set up sounds crazy. I have thought of running a different esc so I can use 4s, but maybe I need bigger lol. The stock spur is prone to stripping and while I've got the transmission apart I might see if I can find a different top shaft that will fit. I have a stampede or an Axial AX10 that might work, we will see....The reason for this is to fit a 32 pitch spur hopefully-.

Cool, just watch the bearings!. I am ordering new parts, but some are not in stock so could be a while.