NuttyProfessor

standard leccy bits in most RTR's aren't up to much, a nice metal geared savox will last you for years. Could take the standard one out and test I off the car. Also check there are no stones blocking its path.

each wheel manufacturer has a different way they measure it based on how deep the dish is and how deep the hex is. What car is it for? my tourer has a trackwidth of 185mm, to get full width I would need 7.5mm offset per side on a 200mm shell and 2.5mm per side for a 190mm shell. I ran 10mm offset on my Venom T10 shell but a few mm camber to pull the top of the tyres inside the arches.

the dial is like using the wheel or a stick to turn the servo basically to test its angles.

ive wreaked my pinion and spur, full power on 6s, lost brakes so thought ah well, pinion has spun off but no, new pinion and spur needed.

£125 for an FTX Hooligan brushed, even as low as £95 RTR. Brilliant all purpose rally car. Ive got one on brushless, evil car. Parts are plentiful and cheap too as it shares its chassis with the Carnage/Vantage. Or go for a Tamiya kit, fun to build and are quite robust, TT01 is my fave. Go onto MS and search by price low to high, something will tug your rug I'm sure.

hobbyking used to sell one. Micro rad and a pump.

blimey, haven't used ohms law for years! Get a buck puck with a few 1W leds! Will blind anything that comes near it!

or you can buy a dedicated servo tester.

longer shocks would be your best bet but the dogbones might come up short. Just enjoy it as it is.

even with the new pads, they are still glazing over fast. Ive got the slipper pad ring from my old slash 2wd, might have to modify the spur to use it, spur has 3 holes in it, might screw straight to the spur. Pads that traxxas use are like brake pads so will be a lot grippier.

they need to be resistored ideally to keep the voltage draw down. Some LED'S are only 3v so you need the resistors in there to keep them happy. Only ones ive used without them are 12v ones.

used to get any parts from Hobbystores.

need a pic of the wiring to check polarity fella.

if you have a different Rx in another vehicle, unplug its steering then plug the servo from the jackal in the other vehicles Rx. Unless you have a dedicated servo tester or another Tx and Rx, you wont know. Could try plugging the ESC into the steering channel in the jackel to see if the motor spins up using the wheel and plugging in the servo on the throttle channel to see if the trigger turns the servo.

did you hold the INC button until the bottom LED went red? Can you move the servo when everything is powered up? Have you got another controller on another vehicle to plug the servo in to see if it powers up? Could be a failed servo, ive had a Core RC one that was dead on arrival.

take a pic of how you have the controller setup on the dials. Straighten the wheels and see which way the wheels turn when you power up.

have you got the plugs in the right way and got the steering plugged into ch1/ST? Does the RX light up?

mate, you have 4 dials, top 2 are steering EPA left and right, turn them both to the right to give max steering throw then hold the top button of the 2 where it says ST D/R near your thumb when you hold the controller. 2 led's between the RF test and F/S buttons, bottom led is for the ST D/R, it will go red when it maxes out after you hold the button.

check the steering EPA and the dual rate and make sure you have the switch in the right direction. The little buttons by your thumb, hold the top one until the bottom of the 2 LED's goes red.

ive never had a delamination but depends on the quality of the kit. Just keep a spare bit just incase. Only other thing to do is use tiny nuts and bolts then countersink them from underneath to clamp the fibreglass to stop it splitting.

Touring car has to be a Vaterra V100, had mine for 3 years nearly, once I upgraded the drivetrain to the Hälix metal gears and full camber adjustment, spot on. Ive let competition drifters try it on 7900kv with hard slicks and a gyro, they loved the balance of it. 1:8 buggy was my XTM XT2E, 2650kv on 6s, hit a tree, £8 worth of damage. Was just a brick solid animal but fun to drive, again, had mine for years and it never went wrong. 1:10 Rally as ive only had an FTX Hooligan, ace little car for the money, quick on 5200kv but easy to handle 1:8 truck, Hobao Hyper MT, only MT ive owned but its a bit of fun as I'm used to handling, this thing is bonkers on 6s. will always love the Tamiya TT01 for its reliable chassis and cheap parts but more for its versatility. Got a few more but this is a good baseline.

id say use flexible CA but a thinner one. Should still flex.

Honda Civic, loads of converted real ones to RWD. On the TT02, you could do the reverse and make FWD by taking the dogbones out the rear or as I said, for RWD, pop the front dogbones out as well as the centre shaft.

plenty of people out there have converted the 1:1 to RWD for drifting, pop the front dogbones and the centre shaft out, boom, RWD.

ive used a Gool motor before, pretty solid. Don't know about the ESC though.