NuttyProfessor

in my eyes, the bigger packs like 8000mah and 10000mah even with a 30C minimum is more than ample for most esc's. Its when you get a 5000mah pack with a 20-30C rating, its borderline. The packs are running balls out just to keep the esc happy especially under a heavy load as most people run their big RC's offroad so you will get spikes causing the packs to fail. Someone needs to run an ammeter across their packs to see exactly how much true ampage their packs are putting out. Also, a pack still has some juice left in it after a run so if its only taking 90% of its rating after charging, its about right. Ive had Zippy and Turnigy packs borderline on arrival and even dead cells, its the chance you take with Chinese QC.

I need a wheel nut, spun off on 6s, front end lifted then wheel done a Villeneuve........never put the locking screws in..........bugger.

ah ok, I turned my XT2E into an onroad Scooby. Cheap Seben shell but looked alright.

so in theory, its a hyper 7 with an onroad shell?

anything buggy sized on a 17mm hex I spose.

CNC would earn you money, RC costs you money!

Managed to get the grub screw out of a new 18t RW pinion I had laying around. Took a hacksaw and a flathead screwdriver but ive got good mesh with the new CNC spur, buttery smooth with a dab of red and tacky. its a versatile vehicle, can run it as an MT or gear up and run it as a wide buggy or get Truggy wheels.

I was just going to drill through the plates and spur and bung a nut and bolt in there to lock it, or I can just be a bit easier on the throttle. Could do with shimming the diffs too as there is a fair bit of slop. Or I could run a pin type spur and space it so it meshes to the pinion. Few options. Even wondered if my old TT02B centre shaft and cups fit.

ive squeezed a 4s pack in the tray, bows a bit but it does fit. Cheers rich for that CNC spur.

Team Epic/Trinity 540 motors are tested to 4s, I had a 6000kv 7.5t running 4s on a HK150a esc, shame I never clocked it. Also had 7900kv on 2s with a 120a Turnigy Trackstar Turbo esc on full timing and a 15000rpm boost, that was too evil to drive.

slipper pads for the slipper clutch and the steering Ackerman linkage, not much else really. For longer runtime, a 5000mah fits in the tray perfectly.

you should only have 3 pinion size options then hopefully, if a 20t is on there, should be 18-22t mount. Check the grasshopper manual for optional gearing guidelines as that will shed light on your options. How many AA's did it run on? Couldn't you get a lipo pack in there and run an alarm? Id run a new ESC, hobbywing Quicrun 1060 is a nice cheap upgrade with the added bonus of a lipo cut off, around £25.

is the motor mount a fixed pinion size? Some Tamiya vehicles have fixed points like the TL-01 with 19,21 and 23t screw mounts for the motor or is it a free mount?

well don't forget, effectively you have geared up with the bigger wheels by a few teeth so yes, you will have to drop your pinion size by at least 3 teeth so 16-17t is your starting point. If its got the pin drive on the rear, you can pop a 12mm hex on there so you can run standard Tamiya wheels or any with a 12mm hex. Id normally agree with Guns but you have already done the work and its cost you minimal as you had the bits already.

ive only got a Hooligan that can run off road until my new spur turns up for the MT. I'm more of a tarmac basher to get silly speeds.

run 30C minimum. Can get 5000mah packs for around the £20 mark from hobbyking.

not all Zippy's or Turnigy's are spot on, I had a BNIB 3s Zippy that took 5 hours to balance because one of the cells was 0.06v out. Ive noticed that Floureon are mainly manufacturers of power banks for phones and tablets.

I'm in London Colney so it ain't too far away. Literally haven't been out with this lot for god knows how long. Got 3 vehicles to tear up! Well 2 until my spur turns up for the Hyper MT.

I just got some 6mm studding and cut it down to make 2 braces, cost me £2.50 for a metre length with 8 nuts chucked in. I didn't like the height of the standard wheelie bar so made my own mount bolted to the wheelie bar to drop the wheel down by 2 inches. Id rather keep the locked centre gearbox, like having 100k oil in there. Once I get the CNC spur off mydoddy69, ive got a hardened steel pinion, just need to drill the grub screw out but doddy has kindly bunged me an old one to get it running again. Haven't touched the front and rear diffs yet but could do with putting 10k oil in there. Ran it on buggy tyres to get the geometry right and it ran really well, just needed taller gearing.

have you calibrated the esc? Set it to forward/reverse with brakes?

ive had my V100 for a few years, you want the diffs out of the Hälix monster truck, ally propshaft and cups and the camber/toe adjustment kit. All you need to make it a brick solid vehicle.

when are we all going to meet up again and rag the motors? Been far too long.

I did that on my old XT2E, only had CVD's on the front so got rid of the rear bones and bunged a set of fronts on the rear. 3 years of solid running, never let me down.

I second the V100, awesome chassis. Built like a brick poop house. I upgraded mine to an all metal drivetrain from the Hälix monster truck and its been spot on for a good 2 years or more. Had a 15t brushed motor all the way up to 7900kv which clocked 70 mph+ so its versatility is very good. Ive used it as a high speed drifter on hard slicks and a gyro (drift box basically) and it was nuts, 50mph drifts. Very balanced too.

blacksmith products normally have a good selection with sizes for each shell.