NuttyProfessor

with foams, you need to get the perfect shore rating for the carpet type but as you run mardaves, they should be running on foams so you can gauge what works best.Contact RC do a wide range of 1:10 foams for a fairly decent price.

you need yellow mini pins to run on carpet but they wear stupidly fast so suggest you and the other racers stock up and rotate them often to even the wear out. Fastrax rally blocks might also work nicely. Schumacher rally tyres are also perfect for carpet but again, wear really fast.

in my XT2E, I had a Hobbyking 150a esc and a leopard 3674 2650kv. Could run 6s and never got above 50 degrees on said voltage. Just keep a temp gun to hand to dial it in.

3674 sized 2650kv on buggy wheels, id suggest a leopard. Had mine geared 46/18 and it can take 6s even though its rated at 4-5s max. Hooking lipo's up in series is literally pos neg pos neg, parallel is both pos together and both neg together to double runtime.

I'll tell you how to do it now, if using bullets, one LiPo positive to esc, other lipo negative to esc, join the 2 lipo's together with the pos neg leads, job done.

I had my Kyosho inferno VE running 3s on 2650kv and it was still fast enough, bung some nanda blocks on and adjust the gearing. Golden.

time tunnel models, Asia tees.......quite a few places as its a popular kit. Only upgrades id do is the ally centre prop and cups, TT01 diffs and a camber/toe adjustment kit. Bodyshells are 190mm but you can run 200mm shells with 6-9mm offset wheels. Good old eBay is your friend too.

id go for the TT02 but using TT01 diffs for longevity. Hard wearing vehicles that can take a knock and parts are cheap and plentiful. Its a beginner car really but are brilliant. Could look at the Vaterra V100, basically a Tamiya on steroids for around the same price. Bang the Hälix diffs in, get the camber adjustable kit and your set. Had mine running on 4s at one point and it took it with ease.

for future reference chap, hobbyking normally keep documents online on their site, normally under a files tab with the reviews etc

exactly that twist, if ive had multiple questions, ive kept it to a single thread and just revive it now and again if I need help as by then, the people that have replied to the thread previous will get a notification that the thread has woken up again. As for the wheels, if you want concrete/tarmac tyres, look at JConcept Smoothies or Schumacher Venom's, designed for onroad use. Even look at the GRP range. I'm not offended, just keep it all to one thread if its for the same vehicle.

geezer, I suggest you stop putting up posts as trivial as this before admin boot you. Not being nasty but you keep asking questions because you are too lazy to look the info up. I spend hours googling things, if I turn up nothing, I ask a question. You do multiple posts for the same vehicle.

look at the Evo Powerboards, I bought a 1600w brushless one, got it running on 14s (58.8v fully charged) hit 18mph on eco mode and 29 on turbo bearing in mind I'm nearly 16 stone. It tries to throw me off as now its using LiPo, instant power instead of the SLA's it came with, also saves 16kg in weight. Add me on Facebook, name is Luigi Macari, all the pics are on there of both of mums scooters. Bald bloke with glasses on.

I had that with a Core RC servo, turned out to be dodgy connections where the wires are soldered onto the board,

better dig out some 4mm bullets then. Was going to just solder one side of the resistor to the controller and leave the other end bare to touch on the positive bullet from the battery then connect it, is this wise?

12s spark is bad enough but 14s will be proper scary. Got the resistor, just need to solder it to the positive line of the controller. Thing is, some people leave the resistor plugged in and some don't, what's your thoughts on this Noj?

don't worry Clive, after routing around online, ive ordered a 100 ohm 10w resistor for the anti spark. Just connect one side of the resistor to the positive on the esc then connect the negative first and use the resistor on the positive side first then connect the main battery positive. Ive actually thought of using a smaller battery to charge the caps then connect the proper packs up after, 14s will be a hell of a spark!

all depends really on a few things. Its a 0.6mod pinion, think the standard Is either 17t or 23t. Whichever one it is, go up one tooth, max 2 teeth as a first test then measure the temps, if it goes over 70 degrees, drop a tooth.

I run a hooligan, on a 5200kv motor with an 18t pinion, I hit 41 mph. Now its on around 4000kv, its hitting around 35. Cheapest route is up the pinion but if you volt up, you need to gear down anyway. If you have a temp gun, use it to tune it in.

got an Evo Powerboard, converted it over to 12s instead of the SLA batteries that come with it to knock 16kg off the weight of it. The spark is scaring me so I need to know what I need to do an anti spark on it. Any help would be spot on Nutty P

id go for a Leopard or a Team Epic/Trinity, the latter are dyno'd upto 4s so plenty of scope but gear accordingly obviously.

everyone has their own choice of oils. Ive used different weights front and rear before to tune how the diff spins up. I normally use heavier weight oil up front on my vehicles to even up the power as most of the time, the front normally balloons its tires as the weight of the vehicle is biased to the middle or the back. Most people run 50k+ in the centre diff to semi lock it so front and back get even power. I normally run 3-5k in the rear, 7-10k front and 50k in the middle but like I said, its personal to each person.

ive used leccy tape or PTFE tape wrapped round the dog bones to pack them into the drive cups. Id also suggest getting some new diff oil, if a diff starts to click, its an early warning to rebuild them before they strip.

I actually play around mobility scooters, ive had both of mums going double the speed they were intended to. Days ST1 doing 10 mph from 4mph max and her biggun doing 15 mph from a standard 7.5 mph by using a cheap PWM controller off ebay. Also used 2x 6s lipo's in parallel to bring the battery box weight right down from 18kg down to 4kg in the ST1

bought one and just waiting for it to turn up. Ordered some mirrors and will be ordering an all in one lightboard for indicators and brake lights as its already supplied with front and rear lights. Anyone had/got one? What are/were your thoughts on it?

I ended up changing to a Hyper 7 hub, £6.69 for a pair of hubs, wheel nuts, grubs and axle pins or £10 for 4 nuts...........