NuttyProfessor

R33 GTR, my fave car of all time.

and that's why your drifter has poor runtime, 13.5t brushless with a 5000mah 2s will last you 30-40 minutes easily.

first job I do with any RTR is check everything over from the shocks, diffs to camber/toe adjustment. My Hobao Hyper MT has a few degrees toe in on the rear and slight toe out on the front with a degree or 2 of negative camber all round. Stopped the grip roll too. Just make sure after checking everything you tighten everything up, not too tight though. You will feel the drag on the screw when its spot on.

you could of replaced like with like? There are many 370 motors out there that could go in it, just make sure the esc can handle it or upspec the esc and motor together. Its your call at the end of the day fella.

who woke the Kraken?

sorry mods, better lock this one. Might get ugly.

check the cell quality, do a few cycles on them to see what they take from storage and to balance, ive had packs charged for 6 months and they have run flawlessly.

shows the person has determination to go against the grain and make something work from a pile of mismatched parts, if I could shake this persons hand I would mate. Ive taken toy grade and made good little runners from them like the top gear GTR, toy grade but 4wd, just put a 6v pack in there I made from an old heli pack and it flew AND handled the power. Don't go slating someone that has the initiative to do what this person has done. The achievement level is worthy of any RC lover wether you play with £10 toys or a mega expensive machine, we all get creative if we have any passion for the hobby. A lot of RCers class HiMoto as toy grade so there is no need to come on this persons thread just to tell them to buy a decent RC when you have bought into just as much trouble fella. If it weren't for people like this, as Clarkson said 'we would all be still living in caves going "its alright this!"

id also suggest stripping the drivetrain to check the bearings etc to make sure nothing is binding causing excessive current draw.

up to you chap but like everyone has said, Himoto are poop. High priced generic rc vehicle when you could get something a bit better quality.

could of got a brushed FTX Holligan RTR for around the £100 mark, ive got one and love it. Plenty of ground clearance, parts are cheap and plentiful too. All I've done is bung a brushless system in there as I had bits laying around and its spot on. Quick, handles well and isn't too brittle really. Had an argument with a transit van wheel, busted the lower arm and steering link. £3 posted for the link, drilled 2 holes in the broken arm and used zipties. Still going strong as it is.

if the steering is working, its getting a signal so it has to be the signal line on ch2 as the power is coming in from the esc obviously to power the steering. Can you reset the failsafe on the Rx if it has one? Just thought, could it be the LVC had cut in?

think red and green is no signal. I had that with an acoms RX, just bin it and get another.

open the Rx and see if any of the tracks have burnt out or if there I any loose slugs of solder in there.

ebay, think it was wireless madness or something like that, I paid £180 for mine then found it on there for £99.........bar stewards! Haha

Robin flinging his hyper off the ramp in a flaming fireball was the highlight of the weekend then the fireworks going off at 8am! Trying to sleep in my fiat 500 was surprisingly comfy.

yeah, ive seen it Noj long time ago though at the monster bash at Alton.

you can get a brushed RTR for £100, come with oil shocks and ballraced as standard, only thing you need are preload spacers for the shocks as Vaterra don't supply them so they sit too low hence why I went for Chinese ally ones.

once you do the upgrades on the Vaterra I mentioned, not a lot goes wrong with them as they are built like tanks, ive replaced nothing in 2 years and its been bashed hard. All ive done is do the diff and shock oils once in a while to freshen them up. Ive had drifters using it to get all positive feedback on how balanced it was but I use a Futaba G190 gyro which is pukka for speed drifting on hard slicks.

this is the chap that took the toy grade with a mish mash of parts with the thread 'help me buy some parts'

think of it this way, its like having a gearbox with no oil in, will wear quicker, generate massive heat and will either seize or smash the teeth on the gears to bits. Not all spur/pinion gears spin perfectly centred so you have to leave a slight gap to accommodate this hence meshing the gears round the entire circumference, not just one point as it might pinch on one side and be out mesh on the other.

problem with mobility products, they are massively expensive for what they are because they are a niche market. I wanted to get the programmer to modify mums scooters, one uses a Rhino controller and one uses a CTM which superceded the Rhino, £500+ for the dongle and laptop software and £300+ for the handheld one. If they made them cheaper, would be so much better but I guess its to keep Joe public from messing around with their wheelchairs/scooters. Only way I can see is to replace the controller with something off an eScooter or eBike to remove the restrictions. Seen a 5000w one for around £200 which would light up the rear wheels, couple that with 4x6s lipo's replacing the SLA's and it would go like a rocket.

timing advances the rotor, like advancing the distributor on a car, each motor has a sweetspot too. I always run 0 timing so the motor is less stressed so lasts longer. If you ask the manufacturer of the motor, they should give you the sweetspot for the motor to run at its most efficiency. My team epic duo in my hooligan says 15 degrees is its perfect timing but you can adjust the endbell to fine tune it. Think of TDCI,CTDI etc diesel engines, they run 0 degrees of timing so they are more efficient but have more power with a smaller lump as opposed to diesels of old running 15-20 degrees of timing but needing a bigger engine to get the same performance.

hobbykings one is called exactly that btw.

a leopard 3674 2650kv posted is around £50 from chinky land. Trust me mond, 2650kv in a buggy is spot on especially the leopard 4 poles, more than enough power to propel it hard and fast but tame enough on a 3s to be enjoyable. Ive had 3 buggies running 2650kv and never had a problem with temps or reliability. My XT2E was built like a tank and weighed a fair bit but the motor and esc rarely went about 35-40 degrees. Losi buggies/truggies are race bred machines and weigh less than the XT2E so will be a nice drive but like I said, gear according and keep your temp gun to hand.