bogg

Aren't there 2 G40 classes? junior and senior. I know a g40 driver, and he wouldn`t pass for -18 !!

I've got a full set. I'm planning to strip them off my slash and sell them. But apart from 2nd hand you can't get them in the UK, or couldn't when I got mine

I'll take the 2 dells at 24v

I actually thought I did the same as revorocks, but couldn't find my emails confirming that's what I'd done. Only mike explaining why the costs were high.

I emailed rcmonster about their high charges when i ordered my mount. They say they only post with a signature on delivery, bumps the price a lot. They had too many international customers with parcels going missing, costly for a small business no doubt. He was most helpful with value though :-)

Nice one keep me in the loop and I`ll pay whoever whenever :-)

would it make it any cheaper to add a third one to the order? ive been meaning to order for a while. Shipping jumps $6, reducing your postage by $2 each. so i'll understand if you dont want me :-(

I use this - http://rclazy.com/shop/lazy-things/lazy-goo/ I try and stay out of water anyway, but it gives peace of mind

If you're a basher, it's gotta be worth doing imo. It does add quite a bit of weight to the shell, and isn't that cheap. 1 big tube should be enough, 2 big tubes will do a great job. But compared to smashing a shell on every bash, it's worth it :-) There's a guide on youtube. If you can get a friend to help it makes it a lot easier. He can measure and cut the tape the size, while you smear the goo around with your fingers. Spread a load of goo on, stick the tape on, spread more goo over the top and layer as necessary. This isn't for looks though. The mesh and goo can show through the paint a little, and is bound to get on the outside in places. But looks aren't important to me. Here's a pic of my truggy shell for inspiration :-) It was cracked through from the single rear body post, but the goo has made it stronger than new.

I bought a fibre glass shell for my savage. I thought it was amazing and would offer great protection. But on a very hard landing a body post snapped and the shell crashed into my engine and smashed the hell out of it. Only put a little crack in the shell though. Fibre glass shells are very hard and stiff, with no flex at all. Now I use shoe goo (from ebay) and mesh fibre glass tape. I've used it to repair badly damaged shells to good effect, but using it on a new shell is best. If used well it can make an incredibly strong flexible shell that protects, but doesn't break easily. Infact it makes it very hard to break the shell at all ! You can layer it up as thick as you want, depending on how strong you want the shell to be. It's sticky, but as long as you don't mind getting your hands dirty, it's easy enough to work with. I love it, and wouldn't take a shell out without being goo'd these days.

I got my hobbywing 150a and leopard from this seller on ebay - http://stores.ebay.co.uk/rcmodelnet Great service, he'll reduce the declared value if you ask, so no tax problems. Mine arrived in a week ! Better than wheelspin :-) I'd go for the 4282 2000kv - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Car-4282-2000Kv-4Poles-Brushless-Motor-LEOPARD-IM152-/250823399127?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a663d56d7 I didn't see it until I'd ordered my 4082 1600kv. Same can size, just no ribs. I have to run 6s to really get the motor flying.

My CRT x2. RC monster motor and battery mount, Hobbywing 150a, Leopard 1600kv, Savox 1258 & shiny new Badlands 3.8 :-)

I`ll take these off your hands for the asking price,

Problem is getting a Psu for these big chargers. It's either spend hundreds, or make your own and cross your fingers :-)

What exactly are you using? Reading your posts it looked like x1 diffs, but 46t spur? x1 is usually 62t isn`t it? 18t pinion, 2200kv & 5s. If thats it, and it is 46t spur, its geared for 80mph with 5.5inch wheels. think that would be why its getting toasty.