Bad-Co
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Everything posted by Bad-Co
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I drilled mine
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If I know what I know now, I would have gone kit.... 5 weeks of ownership and I've stripped it down, front back and middle motor in and out etc etc. .
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Got my reply email. To generate a returns number, they needed the maH and C rating of the batteries I use......??? Hmm, not sure what this has to do with it other than, " sorry sir, wrong battery = not covered" I'm sure they'll love the fact I'm using 2s HPI plazma's as recommended on their website.
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Naymo, I've emailed HPI customer services. On first names terms with most of them now... Just to see what my options are. A replacement is likely just to blow again and again I'd rather them repair the fault in my one or at least investigate why they're faulty. Sc8 would be the easy option but at a cost to me....
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Bashed Thursday, no problems..... Plugged battery in today and got stutter when throttle in pushed. Twiddled with wires and get power. Intermittent problem, sometimes works, sometimes dies especially after jumps. Lose wire/connection in the ESC has to be the problem. Is this a sign of ESC failure, cos I want to send it back and let HPI investigate.
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HPI DIsh wheels and ground assault pins..
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An American website says a 225mm wheelbase shell fits the XS... Was wondering if the HPI Datsun 510 shell would port over... Might buy to try...
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Your missing the point. The overall cost to convert a hyper 7 AND get it to the same spec as a vorza is more than buying a vorza in the first place. If you sold a working H7 PBS is good condition for
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That gets you a base version conversion... Great. Original H7 = 289 My Conversion kit = 60 Combo = 160. It's no where near the spec of the Vorza. I've added a new H7 shell (no holes) adjustable shocks. New servos, new wheels n tyres, plus all the other bits, shock towers knuckles etc..
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I think the other way now... If you had no love for running the H7 as nitro it's a lot of money to covert it and still not run it. If its in good condition sell it on and buy something that's pre built as electric ( Vorza, Muni Savage etc etc) I love my hyper but it's cost to convert and spec up is now running into the cost of 2 x Vorzas. I loved building it but it's a costly job.
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Rebuilt tonight, added a 30T pinion to try.
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I put my old shell over the top to give an idea on where the lines are...
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RC monster make another motor mount. It's more money but gives better gearing options.. I've not seen the annsman to compare quality.
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I thought the 8.5 is the ball size.
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I'd go for the HPI mini recon or ion MT for a little un. More robust than a buggy
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Grrr to that nut on the rear of the diff casings. Take the long screw out and the nut goes flying.....
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HPI sending pinion out today. Always worth keeping your order invoice and being nice in emails...
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Agreed, I swapped last week and immediately noticed the difference.
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Try here... http://www.ghhobby.com/products.php?cat=50
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Ordered the HPI wheelie bar. Bashed and the pinion shifted down the motto shaft. Went to retighten and the grub screw stripped. Warentee email sent...
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AJ / Slugs. No problems with backflips etc with one fitted ?
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Wheelie Bar or Not Wheelie bar... HPI offical one. ? One from America with Ali parts.? T-Bone Rear Bumper with Wheelie bar built in ?? NO Wheelie bar ??
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Looking at it again.... As the previous owner hasn't cleaned it and didn't change the motor/esc and the battery would be the same age of the car.. I would , Strip the electrics, Wash the car out and re grease both diffs. Ball race it... (It wouldn't have been done) Rebuild the shocks. Replace the esc and motor. New wheels n tyres, new shell. Go out and smash it into a curb...... /Start again
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I had a tam TA-01 exactly the same with the mechanical speed control. It would have been 20 years old this year... If your one is that old, you might find the red parts have gone brittle. You can still get spares tho..
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Omg my H7e has a twin* *I've gone back to my original shell...
