KCS

Between an FG Sportline 4WD mini cooper (510 wheelbase) and a MCD Rally X4 competition (536 wheelbase). Which is the better/ stronger car ?

If you do get it and wish to sell on, I would be interested in the roller and shell.

Yes. Its been geared conservatively (15/60) so it can pull from stop with no cogging, wheelie on demand and has topped out at 48mph using 8s 65C. http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/26025-/

Best I start another thread for this.

What Tx are you using ?

Good to know. Also the 235 is a little cheaper, so worth a punt I guess. Sr3300T is rated to 9.6V.

Specs state the 0235 is faster but less torque than the 0236. I don't race- just bashing on grass fields, so I am after more torque. You think the 235 is better because it is faster or do you think it is stronger than the 236? Running DDM HD springs 14.5lb (these are stiffer than Losi own orange set @ 14.2lb) and 300k centre diff- so I have a reasonable amount of help from the rest of the truck to power oversteer.

So, you agree the 0236 is better than the stock steering servo?

I know the stock steering servo on a 5ive is a rebranded Savox 0236. Is it just a different casing, or are there changes in the mechanicals ? Remember seeing a post somewhere where the OP said there was a noticeable difference in the two. If so it will be a cheap upgrade (compared to spending on a dual set up or tonegawa) Been using running 2S lipo on my stock steering and I find it a bit stronger than on 6V. So just wondering if putting an 0236 on 2S would be better or is it

The mounting points are different, so will not fit. The Penta shell on a 5ive would look similar, if not better.

Yes, it

You've got the 2028 is in your MT, is that an MCD as well ? If so are you using the MCD conversion kit and did you have to dremel the cooling fins on motor to make it fit ?

I need to know too. Can you please measure and advise.

Glad its all working. As stated previously, based on your data, problem not related to the caps- but useful to have it on board. Are you using the Castle cap pack ? If you are going to run taller gearing, then you may need something like this: http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/25165-/ You resistor is burning out, because when you plug in, the internal bec powers up immediately (unlike the main controller which needs some time to arm). So your steering servos are going to start drawing current via that wee resistor and burn it out. If you look towards the bottom left corner of my picture, you will see the 22awg red wire for the external bec circuit coming from the battery before the resistor wire (the black and yellow) coming off the main power cable. So the current draw from my servo is not loading the little resistor. You can only do this if you have an external bec, if not the other option is to use a bigger resistor- try a 5 watt 100ohm.

Thanks fellas. Looks like the consensus so far is towards the tonegawa. I have too many time constraints, so it will not be cost effective for me to be hanging around for one to come up on ebay and then spend more time having it serviced and fabricating bits to fit it. For

As per the title, looking at 3 options in escalating price order: Dual servo conversion, using the Area RC kit ( http://www.freeprawnracing.co.uk/area-rc-losi-5ive-t-dual-steering-servo-radio-tray.html ) adding 2 x Savox 236, total price around

Your updated logs seem more representative of the set up you are running. Ripple volts- 2.74 peak is what I would expect given that you don't have a cap bank and your lipo grade. If you ran 8S it may even hit 3. As mentioned before, I was seeing highs of 2.6 without a cap bank on a much heavier set up. Incidentally, I am now running the XL2 and 2028 in a lighter set up (16kg with batteries) and the last log I pulled showed a peak ripple of 0.81 on 8s with the external cap bank. So whilst the cap bank offers useful protection for your electrics, not having one is not the cause of your cogging. Minimum voltage of 23V is not so bad. I think you are getting mixed up with maximum traction voltage and volts recorded off load with your voltmeter. Cell voltage will sag under load. What the ESC is logging is what the total voltage had dipped under full traction. Even top grade lipos will sag under load, perhaps not to the extent yours did. Having seen your voltage sag and ripple, whilst you could do with better packs, I do not think your current lipos are to blame for the cogging. Maximum current draw and watts seem reasonable for the gearing and assuming your truck weighs in around 12 to 14 kg. RPMs- your reading is incorrect, but don

You are right to an extent. A new logging event should start at every power up and reset event- at least that is what is stated in the manual somewhere. There is a sessions tab on graph viewer for you to view a particular run. Once I had run 6s and then upped it to 8s, but when I went into the sessions tab to look for the 8s run, it was no where to be found. Maybe I hit the wrong button, but ever since, I only given consideration to fresh data stored after old logs are deleted.

PH1, before i add my 2pence worth to your data, sorry to ask the obvious, but are these "your" data logs ? Correct me if I am wrong, but my XL2 will only store single runs, or better put, I only know how to store single runs. I need to delete that before it will store subsequent runs. You said this is a second hand unit. Is this the first time you are downloading the data? Chances are this is the stored data from the previous owner's use.

Same can size but a different wind. XO1 is a little faster at 1650kv 1717 has a little more torque at 1580kv and its discontinued.

That's what I like about this hobby. Anyway just a thought, I am using an older version of the hobbywing 150a esc- the casing is rather bulky. This one is smaller and might just fit the usual position https://www.rcgeeks.co.uk/Hobbywing-XERUN-150A-Pro-Black-2-6S-Lipo-Sensored-Brushless?gclid=CNiA8Ivn_bkCFQTHtAodEzkAHg

I could not get Castle's MM nor the hobbywing to fit the normal position, so screwed it to the rear mounting post as this was a simple solution that was ready for me to use. Its served me well. Truck has taken many tumbles and not suffered a broken post or dislodged ESC......yet. Though I am mindful that it could happen, I am just too lazy to fabricate a more secure mounting solution. http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/24613-/ You Revo will not have a similar rear post, but I am sure if you looked at your chassis long enough you should be able to come up with some ideas.

It should look like this once fitted http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/24612-/ The standard diffs are pretty strong, but of course at some point they will go. I have run this set up for a couple of years on the heavier Summit and the rear diffs only just blew a few of months ago. Mind you the diffs on the E revo is less complicated without the locking mechanism and could last longer. Also I have been bashing mine on 6S. You would probably get more mileage out of your diffs if you ran 4S or 5S.

Yup, http://kershawdesigns.com/MotorMounts-Summit.html I have used this with the 1717 on my Summit for 2 years. Its good and will fit the Revo