Marc G60T

I have a pro-line desert rat truck body. The car is totally stripped down at the moment awaiting a full custom/diy drivetrain rebuild. Also, since this thread was started I have passed the Maverick onto my son and have thrown about 4.5K into a Losi 5ive lol.

No need now as i have one.

Get 2 sets of http://vertigoperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=40&products_id=310'>these , no grub screws to worry about whith these.

Hi, Please can any MCD v4 owners tell me the length in .mm of both the front and the rear centre drive shafts/dogbones. I need the measurements from the centre of the pins, from pin to pin, of each one. Many thanks.

A few more pics. Yes the postman has been Turtle Racing v2 pull start. Outerwears filter for Turtle Racing v2 pull start. Unifilter angled foam filter. Hostile orange heat deflector. Copper gaskets. A few clutches. Steel turnbuckles. (for servos) Team Chase carb filter. Team Chase Losi 5ive rear cv protectors. Heavy duty large rear wing and Pitbull flexible mounts. Victory RC "BIGBORE" rear pipe. Lots to do...

Few more pics. New toy: OBR/TR, Zen, Billet, Reed, Full Mod, WT990, 8.2hp, 30.5cc. Cant wait to compare it to my Pro MX 30.5 Zen.

Thats true. Thankfully many parts fit off of other makes or car, and that is part of the fun with this car, finding compatible parts. I went for the Blackout as i wanted something cheap'ish, 4 wheel drive, ok ground clearance, quite wide and stocky with a short wheelbase.

Cheers guys. as for comments: Brakes, more than enough. Stops no problem tho the block that the discs sit on has signs of wear. I have the end point and abs on the futaba set just right so as not to strain the drive train to much or lock the wheels. Reliability, has been good so far. When i bought it the previous owner had only just run it in. I only ran it once in that "bought from the shop" spec. It then had pretty much a full strip down and rebuild using the parts in my 1st post and also had lots of thread lock in the required parts. I did smash the shell on its 1st ever roll which also took out the rear upper arm alloy turnbuckle. All arms then got beefed up a bit. It has since survived a good few end over end and cartwheel rolls with no dramas. Has it seen any dirt, yep, she is built to be used and not sit on a shelf. Had an good outing at a local disused quarry and surrounding area (http://g.co/maps/czkvs) last weekend and she is currently in the back of the my car in a right state. New clutch needed, 1 boot shredded due to a mahoosive rock getting jammed between the rear bottom arm and the dogbone. Bottom of the chassis is peppered with marks as is the gear cover due to the amount of rock being flung up by the front wheels, and its stinking dirty. Few more pics: https://picasaweb.go...126220903076034

The story so

Had this problem too. Remove the gear that is connected to the clutch bell. Remove the gear that is connected to the centre drive / brakes. Remove the square gear drive from both the shafts. Undo and remove the 3 screws under the car that hold the bottom of the gear plate. (if they are still there lol) Undo the 2 screws that hold the centre drive / brakes aluminium top plate to the gear plate. Now you should be able to remove the plastic gear carrier from the chassis. This can be a fiddle but it is possible without removing the whole engine etc. Note how the brakes / brake pins mount as they will need to be refitted when you re assemble the gear plate. Now, There is a metal bearing carrier that is located between the clutch bell and the gear plate. It sits into the rear of the gear plate. This can become dislodged when messing with the gears, and will cause the clutch bell to sit to far back towards the engine causing the clutch to be semi engaged all the time Hope this helps.

1st post on here My Maverick Blackout (modified) http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/15492-/