GorillaZilla

If you do take a hammer to it, stick a bolt or something down the middle and hit that so you don't mess up that nice diff cup, and definitely replace the bearing afterwards as it will be brinelled to buggery

The yeah racing heatsink is actually pretty good, Screws together to clamp onto the motor. A Little thermal paste or a large thermal pad and it's not too far off being as good as a solid metal connection to the the heat source. Best on a can slightly larger than 40mm though, otherwise it's too loose. If you're going to use it on a smooth 40mm can, best to loose the back plate that clamps it on, and use small thin Hose clips to really clamp down the pressure on it. These types are best because they have holes to let the air pass through, and even act as a little extra heatsink. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-Hose-Clips-Pipe-Clamps-W4-Jubilee-Type-Up-To-360mm-Diameter/123694833790?hash=item1cccc9607e:g:fQgAAOSwa59aroQN

Not the best time to be buying an RC because the prices are kind of high right now... Buf if you want one now, Maverick Strada MT is a good choice. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/maverick-strada-mt-1-10-rtr-electric-monster-truck/rc-car-products/405658 usually that is more around £119 but is £135 because of all the sillyness going on right now with the Scamdemic going on. Jang did a review on this chassis a while back. The strada is basically the same thing with a few tweaks and different bodyshell / wheels

Yeah, https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/profile/43432-paul-busby/ I'm having some sets made for Hyper ST/7

There's a fella on the forum making bumpers out of Kydex, Made for the Aviation industry. Highest impact rated material in the sector.

Yup, throttle signal has to be pretty much dead on 0% for the ESC to start, and also needs throttle to be at at 0% to unlock reverse after braking. Could be your ESC needs re-calibrating or your Transmitter is wandering around....

Here's a bit of info for yah matey " If an engine runs well for around 5min then acts up that could be worn out piston sleeve once hot and metals expand the compression falls. Once the engine is cool again it will have compression again and act ok till warmed up. " Would explain the behavior of your engine, sounds worn out.

Yeah, this setup should be able to run the motor already in there, as this speed controller can drive pretty much any brushed motor long as it's not too big and amp hungry or requires too high a voltage to get enough power.... Though you may not get the speed you're looking for with the current motor, as that is tuned for running at a higher voltage, 12v, 10 cell nimh, where I've only ever known this speed controller to run on 7.2v, 6 cell nimh. 7 cell, 8.4v at a stretch. I'll throw in the motor I had hooked up to it for the wasp nest agitator, as that was a 380 Boat motor intended for 6 cell use, and had plenty of poke.

Power up tests all good, was holding a torch in my mouth so good luck understanding anything I say haha! Reverse was actually forward on the ESC here because the throttle channel was reversed, hence why reverse on the transmitter had a lot more power, fixed that now, just a switch to reverse the channel on the Transmitter. Servo and radio working well enough for what you want it for alright aye! Now you need to figure out how you are going to bodge job connect this up to the car Biggest problem will be how to hook the motor up... Here's some measurements. Motor Diameter is 36mm Length is 50mm Theres two points for M3 screws to mount it up from the front and the spacing is about 25mm Motor shaft is 3.17mm with a flat spot for securing a pinion to the shaft. Have a rummage around how the current motor mounts to our car and figure out if this will fit....

Just been looking through modelsport and this looks pretty attractive, https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-carnage-1-10-4wd-brushed-truggy-2-4ghz-waterproof-with-lipo-pre-owned-/rc-car-products/1331771 Comes with a 5000MAH lipo and an Overland Li-Po charger

Did some more digging and unearthed an Old black can motor, Servo and Battery, Pretty much an entire set of old Skool RC gear. Motor will need the prop taken off with a pinion puller as I epoxied it on for messing around with, I'll do that later. Dimensions on the battery is H23mm W47mm L137mm Not including Wires. Not much speed or torque on the servo, only like 3kg/cm and .20s for 60 degrees at 6v, but should work well enough... Old skool 27mhz AM transmitter and receiver I'll charge up the battery and plug it all together and test it to make sure it's running properly before I box it up for ya.

Crikey, this is like going through the Vaults of the Fabricator General of the earth mars colonies.... Found an old speedo, from my Remote controlled Wasp nest project.... Not as nefarious as it sounds, I assure you. Was used to get a wasp nest In my compost heap frame become accustomed to vibrations before doing some work near it involving jack hammers and circular saws. And I didn't want to have the nest exterminated because I like to see the little buggers come and go actually and they help keep down the numbers of harmful plant wrecking pest bugs in the garden down. So hooked it up to a motor with a Nut Cable tied to the shaft to make a good vibrator then set it running with random and erratic RPM from a controller... Worked quite well, I had it sealed in an Icecream tub so they couldn't get to the workings and get themselves mashed up... The wasps swarmed at first, but calmed down pretty quickly and pretty soon ignored it, and the banging and vibrations from the work I had done later, So it's done its job.

I'll get em boxed up for you and let you know how much postage is when I get around to going out into Scamdemic land, need to pickup an appropriate Muzzle So I don't get Merked by "Communist Lives Matter" While I'm out there.... Then you will just need a Brushed ESC and a battery + charger. I'll have a dig to see if I have any tucked away somewhere.

Those brushed ESCs still knocking about? Could use one for a project.

I've got some old 27mhz Kyosho Radio Gear you can have for the cost of postage, and some old servos knocking about somewhere too. would be a start. 👍

Don't suppose you make T-bone style Basher bumpers do you? Used to be someone here who made better Bumpers than T-Bone racing, Tuffest Plastic and thicc. Were pretty simple and quick to make as they were just cut out the bumper from the sheet, and add a bend..... Drill your own holes jobbie.

You need to add a 0.5mm thick M4 washer on top of the thick washer that's already there, just so you get that extra 1.5mm of thread in the knuckles without poking out far enough to rub on the Universal joint driveshaft.

Another thing you can do, is replace the 2 main 12mm M4 Cap head bolts that hold the Steering Knuckles in the C-Hubs with slightly longer 14mm ones, and threadlock em in good. Just to use every last mm of thread in the Aluminium Steering knuckles for Maximum bash powah.

No reason why you can't charge them outside on the patio, using a reel type extensin cord that you can plug the charger into... And store your Li-Pos in Breeze Blocks with Ziplock Bags full of sand on top, where in the unlikely event of something going wrong with them smoke and fumes could escape outside easily without getting to your family and pets. check the link in my Signature.

What is the Nitro car you had that you could never get running? Depending on what it is, a Brushless conversion could leave you with a MUCH better car for your money than buying a whole new car... Though, might be worth seeing if you could get it running with some help from here, probably would not cost too much and even then if Nitro is a complete bust still have plenty left over in your budget for a solid brushless conversion.

I'll pick this up, what will postage be?

This fella did something along those lines, would be a good place to start

The mac 28 is a powerful engine, Not the easiest to work with but the juice is worth the squeeze. They do tend to run happier on 20% nitro than 25% though

Onroad tires work well on tarmac but If you are going to run on and off tarmac in the same area, driving between the two, then Badlands tires are a good middle ground. They last a LOT longer than the small pin pattern tires on tarmac, but still give you decent grip on grass and dirt. Still, quick and easy enough to swap out wheels between running on different surfaces, only takes a minute, and if you get serrated wheelnuts you won't have to worry about them coming off long as you nip em up tight.

Now you made me think about that touring car shell thing, wondering if I could find a shortcourse truck shell the right size to go on the ST along with some big ass bumpers to fit....