GorillaZilla

Wow that Sugru is really bloody expensive, £14 and you only get like 40 Grams of the stuff, Yikes!

like bits of spare plastic that you have cut off during the build, Don't worry, Someone professionally making custom shock towers for the Hyper 7 once told me that the stock shock towers were made of steel, and he used magnet. I asked him what is this Mag-Net you used? is this some kind or engineering info network/net that you can use to find out what any manufacturer makes specific parts out of? Then It hit me how stupid I'd made myself sound

Some Ideas for you..... Maybe hotglue the middle of a couple of nice big 7mm wide automotive cable ties down there, then fill the space up with plastic cutoff and hot glue and flatten it out, so there's a flat grippy shelf of hot glue for the bottom of the servo to lay on, Just be careful there's no bending force on the chassis as you do that, as the heat may soften the plastic and cause it to warp.... Doing it in layers and letting each layer cool might help there, so it's not just one huge lake of hot glue letting all it's heat into theplastic at once.... Then you can put the servo down on that hardened shelf of cooled down hotglue shelf with just a small blob of fresh hotglue, enough to secure it, but not enough to put too much heat into the servo casing and warp it when you put pressure on it as you fit it... then you pull the cable ties closed over the servo and tighten them down a bit, maybe a bit of thin rubber sheet between the cable ties and the servo for grip... Will let the servo move around a bit in impacts and absorb shocks better, Since you removed the servo saver that normally absorbed shocks, and just using a straight direct connection with a servo arm. That should help stop the servo getting the gears stripped.

Yeah, best keeping that nitro, Put a nice engine quality engine in there, one that's a pleasure to work with and you'll have a nice time. And have a something else brushless, It's nice to have both, sometimes you want the convience of brushless, sometimes you will want to tinker with nitro. If I was to go brushless now, it would have to be a Corally, AJ's having a great experience with his, great chap running that company and it shows, they even gave him the option of a free selection of V2 parts or like 77% off all the improved V2 parts, like they are doing for everyone who already owns one.

Yeah, did the battery get left plugged in the car at any point? Even without throttle the electrics are using power from the BEC, the ESC may have a Low voltage cutoff, but the BEC which supplies the lower voltage to the receiver and servo may not. Either way, don't store that lipo indoors or near anything flammable, Lipos have gone up from being damaged from overdischarge Here's what happened to a Two cell 8.4v lipo that was overdischarged and sitting at 5 volts total. Wasn't charging or anything. Get yourself an ammo can and remove the rubber seal, then have the ammo can on a paving slab or something. Seems to be the best solution as they are cheap and everywhere. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AMMO-BOX-Army-50-Cal-Pre-Used-Ammo-Can-Military-Surplus-Storage-Box-Tool-Box/124162396055?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1ce8a7cf97:g:q0oAAOSw3dRen-Bp&enc=AQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkp2NA0WuhQytmt4dbStg00JtPnRefRxa4sFYnclD%2FKsMpWZ8Nbe3ziNGel4A4cPYeohgnNwFI9UyQsD2Xx%2B9No8GoMyXEtPB812bFAz9mkSoNe%2BM9g%2BoHSi4MyzAcQRbR6i9K7jb5tS31kok6yYesBKSe1SqqkDL%2FsdL3l8i%2BwOlPv%2Bi9GhkD6ABZtU82UCu6zu7zoesmFNZlfl%2B6N1eTT5GJ8O%2FsMvOGmrFWp%2F31TxvwNl2yoWHzdfcJvcT%2Fgjp3SuDCjaUlEB0bAB86BPfTEhWSBdzjZO3YaX99syg9iyBF8S1zmnzfANOsLQkJJDfdGYeJS%2ByH3zCOPRSex6%2FhChRpAawbX7Ub%2FYRvn%2Byf8EdhJ99qxBPN5TNAD2LbBKTsfWhv7fsKVFP893bB9niiEva3UAHTwI6ZBccSDXt7PhTJy%2F7MKi4kNfNFPAh%2Br3%2Ffc8iDqd8WysokphfJdRyirg9Y%2BTMgdHEzQNtvnX7JSLnomVMCu70PMuoUKCvJTqaymVXO0dFK4mneZMh7R4xr6OczYEizD85kSU47F%2Bn2BlTJqIGuARflRCMyl%2FgX%2ByJheLCMGW1wVopNfF02WvXsa8hLZOWoDpPaDba8nuK7kGRtjoXD9oA57i5SyfkTkjRHrnN%2FnR7j%2Bu8tagYIFLVa5EkIV0FY9qELgTFSHmnFilWr%2FCvgBIoqHCIZlzCUH8nQ02yylnI0ioqFaQ%2F0fBmuK3VeaAx2xnv%2FPj70P8Ncg2fnRQohtqKM65INAUFLJj5H&checksum=1241623960550e5c469faedc40e68d3d2768d4035a09

Also, once your Transmitter and receiver are bound, the ESC may need calibrating, PAGE 6 here: https://www.ftx-rc.com/manuals/Carnage Brushless Manual.pdf Oh and you also will want to set the failsafe on the receiver too after binding the radio to the Receiver as that looses the failsafe setting... So the car does not run out of control should you go out of range or have the transmitter cut off for any reason Page 6 here https://www.etronix-rc.com/manuals/ET1060.pdf

Damaged Lipos are dangerous. And voltage that low will have damaged the Li-Po. So keep it outdoors away from anything flammable. I take it that the measurement of the battery at the discharge terminals is 2.31V, and not per individual cell?

Also, I'd completely discharge that battery down to 0 volts outside and then dispose of it safely.

Not clearly enough though, should have been in the Important warnings boxes on the first page IMO

I think a lot of the fault here is them advertising the car as waterproof, when in actuality it is only splash resistant. They should have atleast made it clear in the instructions that if the car becomes submerged to immediately unplug the batteries and carefully dry off the car's electronic parts with a hair drier ensuring not to hold the drier too close and overheat/burn the parts (aka not to make them too hot to touch for 6 seconds or more) then leave the car for a few days to ensure all moisture is evaporated before running the car again..... Also, do this with the transmitter and receiver to pair them together, PAGE 5 of https://www.etronix-rc.com/manuals/ET1060.pdf Could consider dipping your electronics in corrosion-X and really swilling it around to get it in all the nooks and crannies between the heatsink and the FET chips on the board as that offers some protection for when things like this happen. http://www.corrosion-x.co.uk/product/corrosionx/

Be careful with the hot glue, I've found it's hot enough to soften plastic... Found that out when I was converting my Old Futaba 3GR 40mhz radio to 2.4ghz with a FRsky hack module, I was hot glueing in the bind button board onto the radio casing, over a hole already in the casing, between two pins. When I surrounded them with glue they began to bend and melt a little. Have any pics showing what's going on with the screw that's slipping out?

just make sure you don't swap the polarity by mistake, I take it the wires coming out of the car are marked red and black too?

About the Nimh battery and charger I I gave you in that supply drop. The charger puts out 0.35 amps (350 mili amps, aka thousandth's of an amp), the battery is about 3.3 Amp Hours so 3.3 divided by 0.35 gives 9.4, that's roughly how many hours it will take to charge.... But about 30% of the energy is lost as heat, so tack another third on makes that about 12 hours realistically, is that correct? Either way it's an overnight jobbie. Which is fine to get you started.... For getting your pinion off the old motor onto the supply drop motor.... Brass pinions are usually heat fitted, they expand when heated so they just slide on then contract when they cool so they grip the shaft. Try holding it with a pair of pliers (just not too tight as you don't want to deform the teeth) and heating it up with a lighter, not actually getting it in the flame and covered with soot but just above in the hot air so it gets really hot... Or use a heat gun if you have one. Then see if it will go on with some gentle tapping from the end onto the motor shaft while you hold the sides of the pinion with the pliers. Do this indoors above a surface that can handle the hot pinion falling on it without melting if you drop it at any point, and somewhere where it won't ping away and get lost somewhere... Though, if that does not work, if you feel and inspect the Shaft on the motor it has some slight protrusions on it, where the shaft has been pulled out into sharp flaps to better grip the inside of a plastic part. Might need flattening first by squeezing it with pliers, or carefully grinding it down with a grindstone bit in a drill.... As for the yellow bit on the servo, just unscrew the bolt with allen keys and pull the servo arm off, any other questions just ask em here and someone with da knowledges in the headmeats will help ya out And for more info on this chaps first RC project, here's the thread where it started

Yeah, the Hyper ST is great, but that wing mount on the V2 Kronos 6s, with that beefyness and the extra brace to the shock tower makes the equivient on the ST look like those things you used to make in school with glue and toothpicks... With a nice flexible wing should hold up well

I really want one of these now, with the V2 they have finally made a car that pips the Hyper ST Pro for bashing..... Can you ask him to consider a Kit option for the new V2's? As that's coming back into fashion as you can see with Traxxas offering kits for their Slash.... I'm not buying any new RCs unless they are a kit with tamiya/Lego quality build instructions so my kids can have the experience of building the kit themselves with supervision and guidance. Just a case of throwing all the RTR parts into a box, the hardest part is making the instructions to a good quality and sorting the parts into Stage by Stage bags... Lego style Stage by stage instructions that kids can understand, and splitting the parts into little stage baggies..... So all the parts for each stage are in each bag for that stage. Basically that's what I want, Kit experience that's like building a Lego model, Please make it happen, and take my money!

Exactly, I'm not buying any new RCs unless they are a kit with tamiya quality build instructions so my kids can have the experience of building the kit themselves with supervision and guidance.

Has that box of bits arrived yet? I sent it Saturday morning second class, should be here either today or tomorrow.

Yeah you can do both, I did on my nephews Hyper 7.

yeah. 5 minute job once you have the tamiya plastic bits. got any throwing darts? or large needles? they make pushing in the locking flaps on the connector pins easy. you can see what I'm on about in that pic I posted, the bits sticking out of either side just behind the pointy ends of the pins

these are tamiya connectors Similar pin connectors to what's in yours, hence why it's an easy swap if you get the plastic parts Can you take a photo of where the battery plugs into the car?

I loose the backplate for the motor and use these instead https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-Hose-Clips-Pipe-Clamps-W4-Jubilee-Type-Up-To-360mm-Diameter/123694833790?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=424288753572&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Bit of CPU thermal paste and really clamp down the pressure, VERY good thermal connection. I prefer those types of hose clamp because they have holes in, so let air flow through where they cover the heatsink, and act like a slight bit of extra heatsinking too because I use a little thermal paste on them too around their inside..

If you just want to top up the diff oils, you could unscrew the little grub screw on the side of the diff casing and inject the oil into there, without having to take the diff apart.

And once straight, you can do the extra chassis braces mod to stop that happening again... I couldn't find the exact pic but it looks kinda like this where you use a brace between the upper plate and the center diff. I did this mod on my Nephews hyper 7. Next time he brings it round I'll take pics and get the exact parts, Far as I remember you use two center diff plates (with longer screws to compensate for the extra thickness) facing opposite directions so there's a mounting hole either end. then you use stock hyper 7 braces, with the plastic end parts from Hyper ST upper arms on one end... So you have extra end to end chassis bracing

You can convert that to Tamiya connector really easily, you can use something small and narrow like a tiny flathead screwdriver to push in the little metal flaps either side of the power connector pins and they will slide backwards right out of that plastic housing... Then you lever the flaps back out again with a needle or exacto blade point then push them into a plastic Tamiya connector housing, then the flips will click out inside the connector and lock it into place again How does the battery connect to the car? If the car has a lead with a similar connector you can conver that to tamiya to match the battery If it's a socket moulded into the car that the battery plugs into you will have to make an adaptor with the same same connection as the battery on one end and tamiya on the other

There's a decent 380 motor in that care package with the radio gear and esc + servo I sent you that should be plenty, but not too much power for the drivetrain, I'd wait for that to arrive before ordering anything.