HATZY

time for another update given up alltogether on turnigy cars, waste of money. the little st i made myself has a stripped back end atm waitin to be put back together, i just need to get another toki .05 owb to try an idea out. ive also been busy building an nb16, which then turned into an nb16t and is now turning into an nb16sct. just need to order the bumpers from hobbyking to finish the conversion. it still has issues like the stock plastic exhaust and only having a single speed gearbox and the engine can be a bit fussy about running when its cold and when its warmed up but hopefully gettin an xray .08 for it or im hoping a decent pipe will make some difference but ive not run it since modifying the stock plastic exhaust so we shall see. the stock servos were poo so i replaced the throttle with a low profile 1:10 servo which required the battery tray being moved back on the chassis. the steering is now done by a lansu mini servo but will probs change that to an identicle servo as the throttle. battery box needs finishing and generally just tidy it up. im still nersing stab wounds in my left arm atm from stopping a drunk bloke beatin his girlfriend up in the street so progress has been pretty slow of late but this is how it started and progressed, i got it without the front and back ends which came from the turnigy brushless buggy

running musak digitiser

amstrad cpc 6128. the computer is fully functioning with a repaired drive belt. has master discs and copies. software includes mini office which works and is loaded up in the pic. printer is untested but has all cables and spare ribbon. collection from bridgwater town center ta6 3eg,

yeah, ive never needed more than quater of a turn. you do need a good solid jubilee clip though

yours is the buggy, i can tell from the plastic side pods. mine started life as a cross between the buggy and turnigy brushless buggy from hobbyking as they are both cloned from the same car. although, mine is now converted to the truggy chassis and ive fit my turnigy brushless sct body to it. im gonna offer up the bumpers at some point but overdone it a bit on my arm today so sufferin now lol. the truggy is a bit longer than the buggy and uses a longer central driveshaft and torque rod. the truggy is also slightly wider. i should have a thread in the mini section that needs updating on its build

get yourself an imax b6 or turnigy accucell, both good chargers thatl do just about anything and cheap too

i dont really have the time or money for it so i make alot of what i need or repurpose parts. optimix rtr smokes loads so can be misleading as it appears rich, the race blend is alot better, the 16% is spot on, im running big bang 20% but my engine is alot older. first i would look at the ally tuned pipe for it. from what ive been told by others who have had it, it really brings the engine to life and gets rid of alot fo that bottom end bog which the 2speed conversion might do a good job at as well umm, 2.4ghz or a failsafe as its a nitro. im not a big fan of having AA batteries power the electrics and AAAs are even worse, so maybe look into modifying the battery box to hold a hump pack

around 30mph ish, same as any other rtr out of the box ive been busy since takin those pics just gotta figure out how im fittin the bumpers and when my arm has recovered more from an injury, i can get on with tidying up the shell and finishing up what needs doin on the car itself. i plan on gettin an ally tuned pipe, 2 speed conversion and possibly port the engine liner. im just about to put a 12mm hex conversion on it so i can run a better choice of tyres

as said mate, you run the very real chance of killing the liner all-together with a jubilee clip but, it can be done. if you are not confident enough then deffinately get the proper tools. even if you are confident enough, the proper tools will do the job properly without having to worry that you could bodge it. i use a piston or simillar to keep the shape

here's mine before fitting the .07 1:10 low profile servo for throttle and brake which required new holes drilled in the chassis to move the radio tray back, which im also modifying to hold a hump pack and my rx rather than AAA batts and a micro rx steering is done with a lansu true 1:16 scale servo although that will probs become a 1:10 low profile servo too i replaced the puny stock couple with a bit of heater core hose and used clamps to hold it in place, drilled and filed the manifold sections so i can use nuts and bolts instead of just bolts where my hsn was last time i ran it, plus more of the exhaust mods my lsn is slightly on the rich side to pull the idle down, but once set, the lsn dont really need to be touched

you are almost there with the run in, just give it a couple more tanks as you are. ive the truggy version which ive been building from parts. firstly the stock plastic exhaust is useless, leaks like a sieve (ive had to modify my exhaust substantially to stop this) the stock servos are a waste of space tbh. the engine is tiny so it does tend to bog a little bit before pickin up but this could also be from the exhaust leaking. there is about half a mm - 1mm of end play in the flywheel and clutchbell. a good indicator of the lsn bein dialled in is to pinch the fuel line about an inch from the inlet, the rpms should rise then stall out within 3-5 seconds. the hsn you wont be able to tell till the car is driveable, but if you can get a consitant high rpm without stalling or bogging, a good amount of smoke and not much oil out the exhaust then its pretty much there. tbh its not the best car for a beginner. anything else ive missed?

ive elongated 1 liner using a jubilee that was too big and by applying too much preasure

you can do it yourself with a jubilee clip and a cooker but you run the very real risk of killing the liner

yeah me, se eyou in a bit lol

was just about to say the same remove the backplate and give the bottom of the liner a few taps, its worked for me in the past. only do it with a dead liner though because it will damage it

is the piston on the right way round? i had 1 engine brought to me doin the same. stripped it down and the piston had been put in back to front and the little plastic end stop that sits inside the gudgeon pin was sliding out and snagging the exhaust port

me too, im usin with credit to disco dave

i would think that the sensor timing is way off for the motor, so the esc is telling it to fire at the wrong times (frequency?) and the motor just couldnt take it. i know on the bigger industrial 3 phase motors, if the frequency is wrong, the motor will just get very hot very fast and probs wont spin

take the roto off and using a spanner or simillar, crank the own and engine by hand and feel for any snags as the piston travels. are you sure the back plate is on the right way round? if its upside down itl cause the gears to keep stripping because the piston will hit the inside of the backplate. they typically have a groove cut out of 1 side to allow the piston to clear

have you got the esc set to forward only and the channel reversed on the radio? not sure what difference that could make