HATZY

all the pb batts ive seen from maplins are bad in some way, mostly that they are only half to 3/4 filled with conductive material so are generally quite a bit lighter than a good quality cell, especially in their booster packs. cheers for the advice tam mate, i didnt think i would be able to boost it volt wise but considering the way the leccys are mapped out in this thing, it wouldnt be too hard for me to get a couple of better start caps and better wires throughout. from what i can see of it (ive had it all apart cleaning it and getting it workin as got it used with intermittant power) there is no really SC, just an all or nothing on/off switch with a reverser, 2 start caps and thats about it

tamiya my sons is a 6v jeep, would i need to do anything to the circuitry to add another 6v battery in or just hook another batt up in series? can get a pic of the leccys in it if that helps. im normally savvy with these sorts of things but dont want to blow it up lol. i was toyin with the idea of makin it rc with a brushed esc and a jumbo servo on the front

i was just lookin at them posts and thinkin, lipo? really!?! tamiya, how do you work out what a pb should be charged at? i normally do them at between half an amp and 1amp

pocket bike batteries tend to work. search your local area for a battery shop or electrical wholesaler, failing that there is always ebay. the PB stands for lead acid so will need to be trickle charged. i do my sons on my imax. you can use a 12v instead of 2 6v but thats if there is enough space. i doubt the amplifier on the mp3 player has any protection against shorts so thats probs why that wont work any more, i wouldnt have thaught it would kill the batt, although, leaving it connected for that amount of time will

the jamming throttle could also be from a dirty slider. remove the linkage from the throttle and move the throttle by hand. if its smooth and free and doesnt jam then check your end points (Although end points is worth checking anyway), if it jams then strip it and clean it looking for wear

something i found interesting about the hobbyking comparison between the real imax and the fake is the fake has no reverse polarity protection, yet my fakey, although it doesnt have the component show in the vid, if i plug a battery in back to front, it sounds an alarm and says reverse polarity and locks the unit up till the battery is removed. my case is the same colour (fakes are more dull) but inside the componants are clearly hand soldered, although, not as bad quality as their example. ive been runnin mine for a couple of years now without fault but i would still recomend a real over a fakey because, although mine was good, thats not to say, another fakey will be as good. so get real if you dont want to risk it, or get fakey if you want to save a few quid and run the risk like myself and many others have successfully

that looks ok, whats the pinch bolt like?

atleast the seller was good about it, not enough sellers like that these days. chin up mate, things that are fun are generally worth waitin for

update again. ive gone back to the linksys because the signal is a million times better. i had the netgear less than 4m away from me and only had 1 bar of signal, the linksys is currently in my kitchen and i am in the front room (about 7 or 8 m with walls between) and am able to watch youtube vids in HQ on my tab. now back to the router. this time it worked first time, i setup the wireless to use a less common frequency round here and secured it etc which my tab connected to instantly. but my test rig connected via ethernet couldnt go online. so i clicked on diagnose connection which enabled me to go online on my test rig, but it also reverted the ip from 192.168.1.1 back to 192.168.137.1 . this is ok i guess, its doing what i wanted which is to get tinterwebs on my tab without having to stand in the window. but i would like to be able to access the setup page. if i cant - i cant, its not the end of the world. i just cant believe that a netgear has such a huge drop out over such a short distance. the netgear is dg834g v2 ive got the linksys in the back room window which is where i wanted it so i can get wifi out in my drive bay (still need to go out and check it out there, about 20ish m with a clear line of sight). but the signal is nice and strong in my front room. i tried the netgear aerial on the linksys to see if it would boost the signal at all and all it done was cut the signal right down, so looks like the netgears problem is a faulty aerial. but atleast i can access the wifi which is now secure and i can run ethernet off it. thanks for your help stretch, sometimes it helps just typing the problem out to give yourself time to figure it out lol now i just gotta hid the wire goin from my front room to the back room lol. my tv is my puter monitor and sits ontop of the puter

that sucks, i got lucky with mine, expecting it to be fake but its got the qc hologram on the back etc. you got the link to what you orderd?

take the carb out and have a look

have you overtightened the carb bolt and collapsed the neck of the carb?

i googled that ip and found this: That IP address is the default for the Windows Hosted Wireless Network (HWN). Details here and here. It's a more modern version of Internet Connection Sharing. By enabling HWN, you can connect to a gateway and have the same Wireless adapter act as an Access Point too. It's a virtual interface rather than a physical ive not loaded any other firmware on it setting it up and trying to access the setup page with just my test rig connected via ethernet the signal on this netgear is shocking. im half tempted to factory reset the linksys and go back to that, just making sure to secure the wireless first lol

update. after a second reset, i am now able to connect on ethernet and wireless. the routers ip has again changed to 192.168.137.1 which i can ping and get 0 packet loss but still cant access the stup page without resetting the router again

i must be doing something wrong because the netgear is doing it too. dhcp disabled so its just routing the ethernet signal. i can get internet out of the ethernets but its changed its ip to 192.168.137.1 but my tab just says saved and wont actually connect.i enter in the default gateway 192.168.0.1 - not recognised, so i enter 192.168.137.1 (aquired from ipconfig) and it just hangs on the loading page as before ipconfig from my test rig running xp which i used to set it up: connection-specific dns... :mshome.net ip address :192.168.137.63 subnet :255.255.255.0 default gateway :192.168.137.1 the puter its gettin its feed from running 7 ultimate ipv4 address :192.168.1.65 (my puters static ip) subnet :255.255.255.0 default gateway :192.168.1.254

are you sure the nut aint tightenin up and not just takin up the slack? thunder tiger in my experience have needed their own pullstart. does the center of the back plate come out to a point pushing the hex further out? if it does then you will need a TT pullstart

hey everybody, i am in need of advice for my setup. i am using the above linksys router as a repeater off my desktop so i can connect to tinterwebs on my tab without having to stand in the window (my neighbour lets me use his wifi). the way i have it configured is wifi dongle - my computer - ethernet - linksys. i can connect to the internet through the linksys over wifi and the ethernet ports perfectly fine. the trouble is, the routers ip page of 192.168.1.1 changed itself to 192.168.137.1 immediately after setting it up as a relay before i could setup the wireless settings. but when i try to connect to the ip page, it wont load up. the stock ip is un recognised and the new ip times out. no ips clash or anything, i made sure of that. the only way i can get onto the ip page is to 30-30-30 the linksys which reverts it back to factory. ive googled this as much as i can and tried everything i could find on there but nothing is giving me the result i want so iwas wondering if there are any buffs on here that could help me out. im gettin a netgear off a mate over the next couple of days so its not a massive issue, but it would be nice if i can secure the wifi on the linksys in the mean time without having to 30-30-30 again and start afresh. would flashing it to tomato help. the router is pretty old now and if its switched off, it has to be switched off and on a few times before itl boot properly so it is on its way out, or the firmware is atleast. ive explained it best i can but if anybody can help and wants more info either pm me or ask on here and i'll fill in the blanks the best i can

i have no idea what the rules are in turkey or for missing persons, but the minimum required time here to force a divorce is 4 years of seperation

sweet that helps alot. open up the hsn till you can prime. if you still cant prime or it wont prime within a few pulls then remove the hsn and clean the chamber out . the hsn body should just unscrew from the carby

make sure your exhaust and head is tight and sealed. what youve describes is a lack of fuel preasure if the needles are ok