-BEZ-

added to the list

While I appreciate the desire for some members to increase their post count, but....... Id much prefer to see quality over quantity. This thread serves no real purpose and could have simply been put on the "what the postie brought me topic" ohhh and

Hyper SS (buggy) side guards bolt straight on

Ive just started a new job recently and my time has been utterly murdered but on the good side its at gokart track so as and when its quiet I will get a bit of testing in and report back

6s on a 1512 will be fine as long as the gearing isn't too silly 15-17t pinion to a 48t spur kind of setup. The higher the tooth count on the pinion the more amps and higher temps will be generated. On 8s the GT was pulling around 250-300A with the 1515 with 26:48 gearing. and generating high temps on the ESC and motor ........ so I will be reducing the gearing a lot I think i will fit a 17t pinny for bashing. I will also keep my eyes open for a cheap traxxas spec 1717. Drive shaft wise the GRP tyres are small and light so I don't expect a huge amount of twisting, that said the rear dog bones in particular are pretty skinny. I Think I will see higher levels of wear and tear when I put heavier oils in the diffs and its torturing the tyres more lol I wont be happy till I can do full on tyre smoking burnouts/donuts, so watch this space

IKR body scrapes and It was bouncing off the power limit, but not bad for a shake down. Well when im not using it for speed runs I want to make it light up the tyres on demand lol I left a lot of the settings stock including diffs just to see how they would cope ....... and the result is they didnt so it drove like a FWD lol. Plastic mount worked but I got carried away and ran it for too long (>10 mins) and melted it and cracked it somehow lol So I will be setting up the cnc v.soon to cut a 10mm thick ally version, then its going to be fettling the diffs, trimming the front of the body, perhaps sourcing some stiffer front springs as they are at full preload now and still compress to much under breaking. Give it a few days and I should be ready for round 2 of testing

Soooooooo...... I took her out for a little test run this evening in the local car park. Diffs are too lose, so first off I will be slapping some super think gunk in the center and see how that effects the over all performance, I need to tune in the ESC and drop the gearing for car park fun as it was spiking at 500A/5.2KW and lets face it the motor got rather hot after thrashing about for 10 mins, I should have gone easy on it but I found it too much fun haha. I even managed to light up the tyres, see 55secs on the video below for some tyre burning action (If i mess with the diffs some more I will be doing more of that haha) Oh and the servo arm bolt fell out so I kept having to stop and pop it back on, temps were high but I expected that when running 8s through a 6s motor and gearing it 26t pinion to 48t spur. But for first impressions ......... this car has buckets of potential https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-n6jotadBE&feature=youtu.be

well the simplest solution is to use a longer dog bone, so id suggest measuring a front and rear of what you have fitted atm and see how they tie up to the data you have just discovered. If the longer ones are already fitted I'm a bit stumped to what exactly is the cause of the bones popping out.

At a guess do you have a rear CV in the front as in some cases they are a couple of mm shorter than the fronts. I know this is the case with Hong Nors (the fronts tend to be marked with a band so you can tell by eye. Edit: Looking back at the last ST I built the chrome bones are on the rear and the black ones are fitted up front

Just for reference here was the original chassis: And now the 8s High speed converted Version:

The other day I was thinking ...........I know its a dangerous situation to be in lol ........... and I have decided to have a go at making the printed motor mount more of a permanent part of the build. I beefed up the design a fair bit and printed a solid 15mm thick mount out of colorfabs XT material. I can safely say when I try and move the motor its the chassis that flexes not the mount lol. The only test now is to see how it deals with the heat generated from the motor and bearings on the diff, it should be fine as the melting temp is 240c. I'm walking into the unknown a bit here but its always good to try new solutions As you can see below the mount is a fair bit thicker thicker +50% on the old version, I have also made the brace wider to accept larger pinions (26T fitted currently) I finally got around to soldering and trimming excess wire on the ESC, I fitted 6mm MPJets all round to make sure that there is as little resistance as possible when it comes to flowing large amounts of amps. While I was routing the wires I also decided to make a little wire clamp that mounts directly to the rear chassis brace support to keep the wires out of harms way and to keep them tidy. I then designed and printed a simple Receiver antenna holder for the twin ariel Spectrum MR3000 (The same one I use on chaser and get a crazy long range from 250M+ easy). Once I had mounted that up I think its safe to say the building stage is over now All that is left for me to do now is pad out the front bumper when I find My stash of sticky back foam and calibrate the ESC. One hiccup I do have is the radio gear. I will have to borrow the rx from chaser for now as the one I had set aside for this build is dead So fingers crossed I can send that away for repair and get it back in working order .......... nothing is ever simple lol The good news however is I should be able to take her for a tyre ripping test run tomorrow, I will do my best to get some video of the testing too Edit: Oh yeah I forgot to mention that the whole car comes in at 4.75Kg RTR, which is around 2.5kg lighter than my previous on road speed car.

These kind of things always turn into a huge mess. You need to check the fine print of there services and make sure that it was properly insured. At the same point the company says they delivered it so its just as likely the person could be telling porkies about a delivery not arriving. Moral of the story is cheap shipping always bites you in the arse. Always make sure your parcels are properly insured against this type of problem. Yes it costs more to ship but that's down to the buyer then if they want to pay the price or risk it.

So I was stumbling around youtube (asyoudo) and I discovered a new series for robot fighting There are 2 eps currently both linked below ............. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZgANhDABAc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sm7NTtzRdW0 Enjoy

would you consider selling it without the spur gear (as I have one already)?

Looking for a vorza centre diff in good condition, spur can be worn/damaged but internals must be in VGC.

I took a dirty under skirt pic earlier to show how the body is supported: I will be padding the front out a bit but I havent decided whather to re cut a chunk of HD foam of just layer up some 1-2mm thick sheet ......... I need to sort out a small amount of soldering and then I can do a quick test, then it will be time to CNC a motor mount and she will be ready to run

I got some paint and decals laid down on the body over the last couple of days I don't think it will be hard to spot on the drag strip lol

This is the next "meet" http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/209297-rc-festival-of-speed-2015-event-details/ The previous Jams made huge losses despite the fun so in an attempt to bring the community an opportunity for a long weekend of rc and camping meetup I have joined forces with my other interest ROSSA. See link above for more information.

Nerf bars are finished now, wohooooo. I still need toof the car a bit and im considering some kind of very basic diffuser for the rear sort some kind of solution to pad the nose cone out a bit and some kind of basic diffuser for the rear, but at least i feel like I'm starting to win with this project now Oh and then there is some wiring to tackle but nothing too major. As normal painting the body is always nail biting so im hoping my new idea looks good lol

Nerf bar design is done

I have that issue with EDS drivers atm, snapped or twisted several tips and ruined handles. Even snapped power tips on some stubborn 8th scale engine bolts. I fancy some MIP drivers but they are rather expensive.