bertberr

So what are the changes between the first SC10 and new version??? I take it there's probably a more rigid chassis if the old one needs a chassis brace???

I like the look of the SC10, but got a feeling that there's a new version about to be released, don't know when, but might wait to see what that's like. Having said that, knowing AE, there's probably loads of upgrades readily available here to fix any known weak points. Hmmm, decisions decisions

What tyres are they / where did you get them? Cheers

Just thought I'd see if anyone else got themselves a Strike since the last post here back in Feb? Price now slashed (!) from

Looks great, love the yellow / black paint job... I'm got some Proline Road Rage tyres on the way, and will either get some RPM Revolvers for them or some AE Spoked, both are black, shouold look nice. I've also ordered the wide RPM bumper and the DP Spur Cover - what do you think of it? Does it completely rule out possibility of crap getting in there? I currently have an ali chassis so think I'll have to rebuild on the original plastic one for the spur cover to fit...

BUMP... Think wire problem may be 'black wire disease' but not sure about charger issue...reading 13v...???? Any ideas???

Having some problems getting a 2nd hand RC18T up & running... bought off the bay, pretty good / lightly used condition. Couldn't charge battery straight away as it looked like the chrager connector had been wired incorrectly, and before I connected it to the battery I needed to buy a volt meter to work out for sure which wire was positive. OK, so done that and this threw up the first question: HPI charger states output 7.2v and 300mah, yet volt meter was reading 13v...????? Any ideas??? Anyway gave it 4.5 hrs (1100mah battery), put it in car, turned on... and nothing.... so, connected volt meter (difficult as it had a mini-t connector so could only just get end of probe in to holes), and it read 0.35v... OK so battery looks ****ed, well might as well cut plug off and use for some soldering practice before fitting deans on a new battery. After doing this I noticed that the copper wire in the negative cable was completely black... all the way down the wire... yet the positive wire was still a nice copper colour... Before I go any further, can anyone suggest what might have happened here??? Could the previous owner have done something stupid with it and fried the esc as well??? :helpsmilie: Thanks

Is this OK for general soldering use like wires & connectors for esc's / batteries / motor etc? Does it contain flux, or is this not really important for general RC electrics? Just got myself a Weller SP40 and just need the solder before I try doing my first connector... Cheers

Yeah, I think I will, was just wondering whether I was right re the black/white wire being the positive????

Just bought a 2nd hand RC18 that came with an HPI Racing AC Charger (300mA). In the past someone (don't think it would have come like this) has cut the original plug off and added the mini plug, but... I always thought the black & white wire was the positive and the solid black the negative on chargers. Whoever soldered the mini plug on has the black & white going to the negative side and the black to the positive side (when mated with the battery pack). Now I think this is wrong, so don't want to connect to my new battery like this, can only assume the previous owner had a better charger that they used instead... Anyway what are your thoughts on this??? Should I remove and re-solder or just try it like this? Cheers

Does the UDC 20 have a battery discharge function? I've read this is very important if you use NiMh packs, but not needed for Lipos - is this correct? If the 20 doesn't have this feature I suppose that's a good reason to stump up for the 30...

Well, assuming its a 7.2v battery, then at 1.3VA and assuming the battery was completely discharged (and ignoring any charging inefficiency) charge time would be around 13 hours, at 21VA it would take about 50 mins. Or so I calculate...

OK, thanks, and does this hobbyking set come with the binding cable or can you just use any cable with the right connectors, whatever they are?

These look good for general bashing. Excuse newbie question but if I bought one complete set + an extra receiver for another car, would it just 'connect' with whatever car I switch on after having turned on the TX? Not sure if binding is what I'm getting at here...

OK, looks like I'll grab meself some deans - is that link for the genuine article or are they copies? How about these cheaper ones on the bay???

Hi, new to the msuk forum. Just got myself a second hand RC18T and wanted to know what connectors most of you use in your mini trucks? I like the idea of APP's, but not sure if they'd be a bit big in a 1:18? Not a lot of room under the body on an RC18... I'm starting from scratch, so apart from the 1100 battery that came with it (which I'll just cut the mini-t connector off) all future batteries can be ordered with whatever I decide on or else I'll order them connectless and pop my own on. So, what are your thoughts?