cooper_xl

I have a problem: i don't mind starting over when I'm not satisfied Testing the truck exposed a flaw. The pass-through axle likes to destroy gears. In a short time span,destroyed 2 gears. So took a better look to reference photos and realize that the rare 6x6 Unimog don't have pass-through axles but a extra output on the transfer case, so a driveshaft goes from there to a bearing carrier on the 2nd axle and then, another driveshaft goes to the 3rd axle This is the new upgraded transfer case. Same dimensions to fit the same skidplate. Designed around 24t M1 pinions instead of the stock scx10 gearbox gears. The idea was to get rid of the 1:1.7 reduction ratio(truck was painfully slow) . Case printed in PLA+,gears are steel, running on 7x14 bearings and ignore those 5x10 bearings that are only spacers

When I've added the rubber around the windshield, tried the same on the side windows but couldn't glue the tube around that smaller opening and quit. Some time later went back to it with a different approach [B]Paper template and then passed to PVC sheet:[/B] [B]First cuts: [/B] [B]After some sanding:[/B] [B]And painted:[/B]

There's friction somewhere in the rear?

This is worth the extra price over the 2.0?

Wife got some AK weathering pencils and wanted to try them. Saw the mirrors scratched from the trails and decided to apply some rust instead of touching up with OD green This is my first try doing rust Other thing I thought it would be cool to do : miniature barbed wire This stuff looks believable and really hurts 🙂

Thanks! It is really great to see something drive, after being built at all this extent...

First time, driving with the new drivetrain

Someone told me told to paint it black but...all chassis are black... Did the fuel tank mounts in TPU to bend instead of breaking like the old ones... A small detail, the exhaust :It's 3D printed and the bends were done with heat.

A curiosity: 3D printing is a awesome tool but not everything can came out like it should. Sealed Bearings are tricky pieces and demand precision. On the first axles, used the Dremel to proper seat the pinion bearings but was much of a guesswork.To little and the axles halves doesn't close, too much and the bearing gets loose Did this improvised cutter with the right diameter and spacing: Simply fit it and screw the halves while rotating the tool. There's no chance of cutting too much

Assembled: Unfortunately,couldn't find a way to make a torquetube for the 3rd axle. A regular driveshaft will have to do... Fitted a new and stronger 1:5 planetary gearbox because the old one was too slow(1:9) After this, disassembled everything to paint the chassis and mount the spare, fuel tank and exhaust

When prints come as they should: (ASA, 0,2mm height) The milestone: My steering setup was like this: It was to try to make it more scale and also hide the servo. Well, it kind of worked. Even with a 25kg servo, it seemed to lack torque and in bad spots, the servo just won't turn the wheels. Besides, tie-rods hit each other. But I've changed to this: So, simple is better and now the servo is mounted on the bumper. Made 2 brass mounts and the servo is angled to clear the bottom of the cab and also the servo horn(+rod-end) clear the steering rod

Tried something different to improve the front axle. It had regular shock/link mounts but I would need space for the shocks. Besides, these type of mounts are sensible to print orientation:making the rest of the axle stronger, leaves these weak Up is new, down is old. The mount is now a single hole where the shock eyelet bolts directly. This and every threaded hole will take m3 helicoils This kind of mount is way stronger

so insane...I'm following!!!

Also, did these reinforcement rods, like the real one has

Dream RC...always loved this style..

Torquetubes: Printed one at first to confirm the length and if everything worked. Proper, machined in aluminium: This,well made, doesn't need a telescopic driveshaft and tube has to be bigger to even fit one inside(mine measure 14mm diameter) so the diff pinion shaft has to be extended On SCX10 gears, this would be easier: a longer shaft where the pinion fit because they are 2 diferent parts.But the pinion on scx10.2 has the shaft incorporated. So, I had the option of welding a shaft but would have to repeat that if I wanted to change the pinion. Also there was not space inside the torquetube to do something with a grub screw holding the 2 parts So, the idea replaces the grub screw with a 2.5mm metal rod,hammered in the ends, like a rivet. This way, I can replace the pinion shaft and bearings

Skidplate done to mount the transfer box as centered as possible. The torquetubes require that because there's no lateral adjustment in this system . The skidplate sits lower than the older one but I think that wouldn't be a problem Quick mockup: (Bonus: Angry 'mog bumper 😛 ) Missed the torquetube length by a couple of milimeters but the real ones will be machined from aluminium so it's fine The rear trackbar mounts also in place.

Thanks! you're not the only one....Struggled a bit to know how to start. First, did sketches on paper,then a 3D printed jig to verify how the parts interact: Diff with bearings and pinion. With that sorted out, could start designing everything around those positions Would love to use the 2s Helios transfer case but that's so big that I wasn't able to center it and adapting the torquetubes to it would be a PITA so, Plan B,a brand new transfer case: This transfer case has everything integrated and it's small as possible. Uses stock scx10 gears so is easy to repair. Could used smaller gears but the torquetube mounts will always be this size so there was no advantages Here, everything mocked up with the v1 transfer case(above is the v2,not as tall) This transfer case bolts to a new skidplate

That previous axle sparked an old idea of making 100% printed axles based on the real ones. About 4 years ago I worked on that, having housings designed and printed but the big scx10 internals didn't allowed to do them small and nice. Fast forward to the present and adding to my improved 3d skills,we have more choice All of this because seeing links on my truck always bothered because Unimogs have no links. They have axles with torquetubes that don't need links. So torquetubes are the only way to go 🙂 Someone suggested TRX4 diff gears and using lockable diff. Was a great idea but the parts are too expensive.Remember that I need 4 sets to make 3 axles. Went to scx10.2 gears from Ebay and they seem good, nice machining and finish The issue was doing the gear mesh because of the "high pinion" feature but after a few tries, is done My motto is too start by the most difficult. Succeeding that, everything that follows is easier. So I've started prototyping the pass-through axle I'm aiming for this,2 halves:

After some time without driving(1 year actually),took the JK, the M548 and the Unimog to the mountain. Ended driving the Unimog a lot more than the others. So fun Tried an easy line with success and was doing slightly harder lines and the truck was doing great...ended in one that I was positive that will fail...but the truck managed to climb. In 1st gear of course. Printed axle held great

Unfortunately , I didn't went to the army. Regretted that later. Thanks a lot! those license plate were the first I've made. Now, I've improved and even sold a few to those builders who care about a proper license plate in the correct dimensions and even the font. I love these old portuguese plates!

In my opinion, 3D printing is cool but when we only print scale acessories, we're just scratching the surface of it's true potential The Moose portal axles being released free maybe clicked in my brain and came back from an old idea of making a full axle for the Unimog. I like this truck but the ugly scx10 axles seem out of place. Adding to that the front axle is a Frankenstein that i don't know how it never failed So,I've started to design from scratch,heavily influenced by the now discontinued SSD D60 axle housing. This housing will have all the features of the old one like being 20mm narrower to compensate to portal boxes,panhard mount, spring perches,spherical ends, 7° of caster and 3rd link mount. The pumpkin is small as the SCX10 gears allow... Front: Like the Stones said: "I see a bright red axle and I want it painted black" http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif

Looks are important but also has to perform The previous 60mm shocks were a letdown because they weren't made for holding oil inside,so no provision for o-orings Found these for a smaller scale, removed the springs and did custom ball ends for M3 bolts instead of the M2.5 that came. Filled with 1000 oil,they hold the extra weight of the new rear Also added a tow hitch. It's a bought one but added a TPU printed piece sorrounding it

Interesting layout on the e-buggy

I love to see everyone's work so I don't mind to share mine Thank you! New bed: part II Next step is to make the frame to hold the canvas. Did mine in 4 and 5mm stainless steel rod, TIG welded Hooks on the tailgate: And a set of hinges that look the same as the ones on the sides but these ones work! they are a one-piece print