carmst74

Im sorry deafty, but your very much so incorrect there. If your going to fit a new clutch, do it before you tune your engine. A new clutch will affect the engines tune. Your charger doesnt need to be able to discharge the pack unless your running lipo or nicad. I doubt you guys are. Steering servo - Faster is not always better. IMO for bashing you should be looking for something with about 15kg torque and 0.12 speed would do. Ive tried a servo with 0.07 speed and it was too fast. It was useless. When i bought my trophy, none of the diffs had oil in them. For bashing, diff oil isnt necessary at start off, but if you ever re build your diffs, then put oil in.

Blower and lipo sold pending payment Thanks Chris

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Evening all Some EDS tools for sale, along with an RC sytems star and flat head screw driver. -

One Ebay 8mm http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8mm-Wrench-Glow-plug-size-for-1-8th-buggy-truggy-monster-truck-etc-/120981873546?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item1c2b14e38a 17mm http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/17mm-Wrench-for-1-8th-buggy-truggy-monster-truck-etc-/120981868633?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item1c2b14d059 Will sell through forum as well. Thanks Chris

Happy birthday Dave (Roverman) Hope you had a good day

AFAIK timing only works on sensored motors, the idea is that you set the timing up high and the motor essentially revs higher, but gets a lot hotter. A mate has it on his 1/10th buggy, and on the main straight of the track, with out timing, he tops out about halfway down the straight, but with the timing, he doesnt. Thanks Chris

Just watched this and thought id share it with you guys [media=] ! Enjoy

Speaking from experience, i would advise to not bother

Corbs is right, i am mistaken. I had the diff mounted to the side, but josh had it on a different plate, the one pictured above Apologies

Steve, The home made diff plate was knocked up by josh1a1h (think thats right) and you mount the centre diff sideways on the chassis plate. I experimented with having the diff on the bottom but a worry was that a knock on the bottom would upset the mesh. You lose the 2 speed box altogether. The alloy box is a battery tray i had made up by a friend for my brushless lightning stadium, but it wouldnt fit under the shell. I then found out it can fit between the TVPs of the desterboy kit at the back and itll the battery less movement, but only fits 4S afaik. The other plate is an Alza racing XL motor and ESC plate. The drive shaft was made for me to suit the diff by candyman on here and seems to be very beefy. He can do UJs as well. My original plan was to get a new set of TVPs made up for it the same as the DB17 kit and also get some spacers made to widen the chassis a bit. Then have the centre diff installed as low to the bottom as possible, while still being protected. Then have a castle 1717 sliding down the centre with an MGM ESC above the steering servo which would be placed beside the front centre drive shaft, again as close to the bottom, but protected at the same time. Then have the batteries lower in the chassis at the back. Then have it all covered by an MCD monster truck shell (still have it in the shed if your interested, fits like a dream, but needs extended bumpers front and back) along with some nice wheels and tires. I had thought of baja rims and tires, but thought they may be too heavy in a jump. Think i originally settled on some 40 series big joes or similar. All this would be floating on IRC shocks and an HPI suspension conversion kit, along with alloy bulkheads and alloy diff cases with hot bodies lightning hardened internal gears and bullet proof main gears. 4S was to propel it to a nice cruising speed of about 45-50mph with correct gearing. And 6S for when i had a bit of money and wanted to spend it fixing my savage The plan was dropped to allow me to join my dad and mate in a group buying of 3 agama A8 Evo FR buggies with bullitt B218 engines. Was money well spent. I think if i had the time again, i think i would give it another go, but id be doing it properly this time and not taking shortcuts. Good luck with it, however you decide to play it. Thanks Chris

Can easily be changed to a rotostart. That LRP motor will have more than enough power to pop wheelies as and when you want

Why do you want a force 46?? Something like this would provide more power and be much better in most trucks http://www.northernirelandrc.co.uk/shop/article_157/LRP-Nitro-Engine-ZR.30-Spec.2.html?sessid=iUVFeZifS6Z3Ei8jpG4CZ9DPWdJPpXmjPChkonGsDcyY7B2bv40cOO5EvGBziTeN&shop_param=cid%3D45%26aid%3D157%26

More ports and better designed ports mean the engine can get more air and fuel in for one stroke, giving more power. The true art of engine porting is to be able to produce an engine with incredible power and revs stupidly high, with only 3 ports. The bullitt range of engines acomplish this. I know my bullitt B218 is definately faster than my old Go 7 port mill

Im a retailer lol

I can buy stuff from the site

Weirdo lol

Says on wheelspin that its 1/16th

1/16th mate, with a 1/10th system

Some of the new bullit 2060 pipes (theyre lovely ), new savox servo for the agama and a couple of bits for a customer.

I would defo have the bullet over the maverick anyday though . But am getting a savage XS instead lol

You should try one before you right it off