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I have a Savage XS Flux, barely used. I bought it off ebay about a year ago, drove it for a few minutes (not even one battery pack) but found it wouldn't handle quite right (turned better one way than the other). I found that there's an odd lower shock cap on it, making it sit slightly skewed so have ordered a parts kit. The previous owner bought it from the original owner, he seemed to like to buy and collect things, said he used it once or twice but preferred his hpi vorza. It's got minor scuffs on the roof/ bonnet/ rear edge of the shell (no holes) - (spare sticker set included too) as well as on the centre roll bar and a minor graze on the rear bumper. That's all the wear it has that I can see. I literally bought it, noticed the funny steering angle, thought "I'll order some bits and sort it next week". That was about a year ago, I just came across it again and thought "I'll order some bits now", hence me being on here. I'm not really looking to sell it, but realistically I'll use it for maybe one day next weekend, get bored of RC cars again and go back to my Xbox. So if you want it;

Hello, I've not been on here for a while as I lost intrest in RC cars shortly after getting back into them, not really had the time to do anything with them so rather than them sitting round and gathering dust I'm selling everything except the charger (that was a nuisance to get hold of and I'll no doubt get back into it at some point so I'll hang onto that for now!) I have the following; Traxxas Stampede VXL with Velineon motor and ESC upgraded RPM front tower, rear tower, front castor blocks, bumper and a few other bits. Full bearing race set (never fitted as most of the originals seem ok) 3x 5000mAh 30C 2s LiPo's (last about half an hour each from memory) Spare Traxxas Rustler that I've used a few parts from, could be a rolling chassis again with about £10 worth of parts (comes with a servo and receiver too) Traxxas pistol type controller (may have two, one has a faulty aerial connection I think) There's a load of other things I could mention but have just plain forgot as it's been so long since I even touched it. I have checked the battery packs a couple of times and found them to be fine. I will have a proper look at it this weekend and clean it up, etc, take more pics if requested. The current pics makes it look a mess as the shell is knackered, it will need a new shell if you want it to look pretty, function over form for me personally though! and in the second pic I've undone the shock tower, hence the funny angle. Any questions please feel free to ask. Cash or paypal only please, cash preferably. I'd also prefer pickup as it's a bit of a pain to try and pack up and post, but could do at buyers cost, may even meet/ deliver for the right money. I live near Worcester, WR10 £200 ono seems about right to me. If it doesn't sell soon then I'll most likely stick it on ebay once I've cleaned it up and listed everything correctly, I'll update this thread too.

I just decided I'm gonna leave it for now. I got too many other things to try and concentrate on and RC cars are gonna go on the back burner for a bit. That one I found for

lol, there's plenty of new ones, cheapest I've found is

Ah good, saved me asking. I spotted that too, should have asked them when I was at the gadget show! Has anyone seen a used (current model) one for sale? I don't even know where to start looking, I've just spent an hour on google with no luck!

I've not seen any for sale second hand, please PM me if you have one for sale, or if you know of one, please PM me the link to it. Thanks.

Bump

I didn't realise there were so many replies until I got an email a minute ago! lol. Thanks for the sarcy "land on the wheels" comments, lol. I don't treat my car like a tarts purse. It is a monster truck and will be used accordingly! if this entails jumping 20ft down an embankment at 20mph then so be it. If it involves racing my mate downhill whilst he's on his mountain board, I will. I'm interested in having fun with it, so things will get smashed, I'm looking for ways to prevent this happening or increase the lifespan of the shell, unfortunately I haven't quite mastered landing properly a lot of the time, although a lot of that is due to the uneven landing areas (so, Im not helping my self in that respect- I know, but Godamn it's good fun!). I didn't mention the shells were already in a used (but acceptable) condition before-hand, hence getting destroyed quicker. They just seem to be a little thinner/ less robust than my mates Revo and I'm sure my old Tamiya Nissan King Cab from about 1992 used to land pretty well on its roof, I was about 10 or something though so most probably have that warped sense of perspective you get as you grow older. It's not only jumping but rolling (to be fair, probably the rolling that does it) as it gets driven in a kind of partially quarried bit on a hill it's a mix of soft short grass grown over rocks lay on the ground, making it look soft and smooth but once you hit certain speeds the truck will flip in an instant, or just get grip where it doesn't normally and wheelie/ flip and at 20-30 mph a little nick in the body can suddenly become a big gash, so within a couple of mins the shell can end up flapping about and falling apart. As the grass dies off towards the edges of the bowled bit it turns to rock, shale and loose stones and then at the top (anything up to about 30ft up) there's the drop off point that brings you into this area, so it's not like I'm taking it down the park and managing to smash it up on a piece of grass, it's a pretty hard environment. I've snapped 2 front arms on the MTA-4 within 5 minutes and ended up going back to the Stampede, as well as my mates Revo pulling a hub off (something to do with a ball joint) and his BSD EP-8 snapping the rear wing, 2 hubs and a suspension strut (within half hours use in total). All in all I think I'm doing pretty well to have only broke 2 bodies, 2 castor blocks and a rear post (as well as the odd bent pin, etc). I've got a load of RPM parts now too, so they should help spread shock throughout as they seem to be made of a softer compound from what I can figure out, as well as being designed to dissipate shock better too (again, from what I've read somewhere). Another improvement came when I landed upside down at a funny angle and pulled the R.L shock apart, losing the oil in the process, it handled a hell of a lot better, wasn't hopping, etc as it went along so I've now put some 15w oil in instead of the original 30 and am going to give that a try, Another thing I've done is gone from 86t gear to 90t so I have less acceleration = less wheelie opportunity. Gone off on a bit of a ramble there, but all good stuff for other newcomers to read! Oh, and thanks for the suggestions! I'll take a look at them this evening!

I'll respectfully decline that offer thanks. I can knock a little off if you bought multiple packs but there's no point in me selling them if I lose money, I'd rather just sling them in a box and use them for one of my many inventions one day. I'm not going to try and trick anyone, You can buy them cheaper elsewhere but that means waiting for delivery from China, which is a bit of a lottery taking anywhere from 8-20 days and then it may get held up in customs, then you may have to pay import tax, I'd also advise paying for postal insurance which also bumps the price up, as well as paying on a credit card, again incurring a charge!

Hello, I bought a bunch of 2s LiPo's a few weeks back, I have 7 left over for sale if anyone's interested? They are brand new. I bought 10 in total thinking I was going to be running twin packs (wasn't sure what car I was going to get) meaning I'd have 5 sets. I only need one pack at a time in my Stampede Velineon and they last 30-45 mins each with me going flat out, jumping, hill climbing, etc. so seem to last pretty well to me! * Softcase *2s *7.4v *Lithium Polymer *30c (I do not know if that's burst or continuous- someone tell me how to measure it and I'll do it if poss!) *5000mAh *Can charge @ 5a (I set my turnigy to 5A and my mates Ripmax Sigma II Eq to 5A- both charged fully under an hour with no noticable effects. They don't even get warm). You may be able to charge at a higher rate but I'm happy at that level so see no need to try 6A (my charger's max output). *They do require a connector.

Empyfree; (is that meant to be MP3 or Empathy, or neither?) I can't find any pics of your stuff anywhere? I searched your username over the whole forum and in the gallery section, couldn't see a thread you'd created though? I'm interested to see this paint tray idea! Function over form when it comes to replacing £30 shells! Joe of loath; Do you know what shells they do for it? I found an 80's looking pickup shell and a kinda morris minor-esque pickup shell, are there any more? If I were to buy a new one that cost that much I'd want it to look good, lol. Again, prices seem to be round £30. What makes them better, are they thicker/ thinner/ reinforced/ a different material? Another Idea I had was to use 2 shells, thought it might act like anything else you layer, ie strengthen it, yet still allow enough flex for absorbing bumps/ landing on its roof from a 20 ft jump. Is there anywhere that specialises in just buying old shells and flogging them on cheap? This was also something I thought of, not sure on what it'd cost to buy said shells though. If anyone's reading this with a shell that'll fit and is cheap (or a load of shells) then PM me with what you got and how much.

Anyone got any links to a website or somewhere that does bodyshells that don't smash to bits? I know there's only so much grief a piece of cheap thin plastic can take but I absolutely annihilated both of mine over the course of 3 hours or so, the second one within minutes (both were old and a bit battered to begin with). Or, does anyone have any tips about how to mount it better? I used to use (and still do) sticky velcro for everything (holds batteries, Rx, ESC, etc) but am struggling to see a way to do it with the stampede as the shell floats over everything else. My mate has a few various rollcages he's working his way through for his Revo 3.3 and I did consider getting one of them for myself, however I'm not so sure a rollcage would be a good idea as it'd add weight and I'm not sure about where it'd mount (probably the shock towers) causing other problems (ie transferring the shock to a weaker point). Basically I'm at the stage where I could possibly make a temporary alright-ish one out of the two and It'll be getting bashed as it should again at the weekend, so I'm keen to have some sort of backup in place. In case anyone else gets into the same position as me, I put some heatshrink diagonally across the body posts and they seemed to fair pretty well, however the truck wouldn't roll over v.well anymore so I cable tied a TG MTA4 Front lower arm on the front bodypost support. went alright after that just looked like it had a rhino horn, lol

From what I've gathered it does help if you spend a bit more on the charger, although this isn't always a necessary sign of increased quality and workmanship, I think it generally is with a charger. It seems cheaper chargers use cheaper components. So for example a £20 charger (lets say a Chinese B6 for example) may use components that are accurate to within 10% of a target value, so if you take all those percentages and work it all out,you'd most probably find that what that charger says and what is actually happening is potentially quite different. It may say each cell is within 0.1v, but this is only what it's able to deduce from the information it's given and the poor tolerances to work with. So it thinks it's correct, when in reality it can be quite different. If you bought the equivalent charger (lets take a 'proper' B6 for example- I know there's many types but these seem most popular) from a reputable dealer that cost, say £40, then it may display identical information to the cheaper one, but you'd most probably find that it is actually on the mark (or as close to as possible). Don't forget that you can't compare everything on price, as with everything it depends on what your specific CHARGING needs are and what chargers will meet these needs. Then it's time to look at prices, etc afterwards. Price isn't always a measure of quality either, different products are priced differently to take into account the dealer bulk buying stuff, how many features the product has (so you may find a £90 charger that's worse quality than the £40 one, but it has all sorts of fantastic features) and so on... btw.... I read this thread through (takes a while, about 13 pages) and this helped explain it. What I said is a rough summary of the thread. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=746574

I want to do a little research. I've heard lots of people saying you shouldn't use soft-cell LiPo's in an RC car, esp. if you're bashing as they will get damaged. What I'd like to know is who here has actually experienced this? Not "I heard off a mate of a mate who's brothers uncle's..........." Or anyone that has witnessed this. If so, could you tell me what caused it? If you don't know what caused it then what would be your prediction as to what caused it? 1.Do you think it's a hard shock (ie a dead landing off a high object), lots of smaller ones (i.e. driving down a large set of steps), vibrations (i.e. don't know really, can't think of a scaled situation, in a real car I'd say same as driving on the white lines on the edge of a motorway), the pack being pierced, or something else? 2. How was the pack mounted in your car. was it lay flat, on its side, front to back, left to right, etc. 3. What layout was the pack? ie. did the cables come out the end of the pack, or were they coming out near the top, but on one of the larger faces? 4. What is the pack spec (manufacturer, capacity, burst and constant delivery rates, 1s, 2s, 3s) 5. What vehicle was it in, (more to the point, the set-up. i.e. motor and esc) The reason for all my questions is I'm trying to decide whether or not this is another LiPo fairytale and I'm not going to listen to people that say something unless they can back it up with evidence. I've just bought a load of softcell packs, having been informed by the manufacturer that they'll be fine, so thought it'd be interesting to see what it is that causes it and whether or not something has been done to prevent it from happening to mine. I'm also an extremely inquisitive person and if I don't know the answer to something I'll research it until I do! Thanks.

You'll probably read this in the other thread but; -Turnigy Accucell 6- £38 or so, UK seller. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140392156758&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1365wt_939 -12v 5A DC mains converter lead- £6.50, UK seller. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270541182531&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_3008wt_1165 Charges/ Discharges just about anything and everything, LiLo, LiFe, LiPo, NimH, NiCad, Pb Does lack connector leads (you get XT60 connector or croc clips to connect to your RC battery) but if you look about you may find a better deal with everything included in the one sale. Think it's out of stock in a lot of places. Haven't really heard a bad thing about it, except 5 battery memory isn't big enough for some. Although I did read you could upgrade the software on it? So maybe that can be increased with an update, not looked into it.