ruffryder

For Crawling, Hamble Marina has a load of rocks along the shore. Also Hurst Castle has a lot of rock. A lot of the coastal beaches now have rock as a sea defence.

Axial have released a 1/18 scale Capra. A fair bit bigger than the scx24 but still smaller than a regular crawler. Dlux have got in quick with the upgrades. https://dluxfab.com/Mini-Capra-UTB18-Axial-c141961034

Stimpy has one. He should be able to give some advice.

As you know, Dlux has been sold, so the recent problems he had with the manufacturers will hopefully be sorted by the new owners. The XR10 needed a lot of money spent on upgraded gears/gearboxes etc to be competitive, the Berg even more so, and the Bully 2 has weak front CVDs that need upgrading to UJs, plus comes with the most useless shocks on the planet, and a weak point in the small bearing. So, if you were to compete, the best crawler you can buy without added expense is the Dlux. Budget wise, and just starting out, the Bully 2 with front UJs, knuckle weights, better shocks, a set of better bearings and it's a good crawler. turok007 has already said he wouldn't use his scale truck for crawling, and wouldn't mind trying MOA, so I'm guessing he knows the type of truck he wants, and what he wants to use it for. Personally, if I wanted to try a comp crawler, I'd put a wanted out on Facebook pages and forums for a used Bully 2, hopped up XR10 etc

As this is in the comp crawler section, then the only truck you won't have to upgrade from stock is a Dlux 2.2 kit. It's expensive, but everything you need to compete can be bought as a complete truck, even high end electrics if you choose them in the options on the site. Next, and which is available from shops, is the RC4WD Bully 2. A few changes and additions and it's capable. You could buy a well tuned, used Berg/XR10 axled truck, but both are getting harder to find.

What ESC's are you using? Not sure if you know, but you need to pull a red power wire from one of the receiver plugs of one the ESC's. You can piggyback the battery leads. Just solder the battery wires from one esc to the battery wires to the other.

Have you set the radio up as in the manual?https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1108877/Airtronics-Mt-S.html?page=37 What esc's are you using? Are they calibrated to the radio? It's best to plug one esc in at a time and calibrate them seperately.

Not had a problem with Pat. He comes across blunt, but I think that's a language thing.

Each esc has a range from 0-100. DIG works by flicking the switch you've dedicated for DIG on the radio, resulting in one esc being set to 0, while the other is still at 100% drive. You can mix the motors to give more or less drive bias front to rear. 5% increments is about right. There are many advantages with overdriving both front and rear. Practicing with both on the same lines will give you the best idea on the different effects. Overdriving the front on climbs will stop the rear getting more grip than it needs and unloading the front end, making the front pull away from the rock. Overdriving the rear can help with 'clod stall', which happens when the weight of the truck is on the rear axle, making the rear motor stall slightly. overdring the rear on a diagonal climb can stop the front from losing grip and 'washing out'. That's just a few examples. On most MOA axles, the rear motor needs the polarity reversing. I think it's only the XR10 axles that need the front motor reversing. If you just swap the motor wires over, the motors may be set with slight advanced timing, which will result in the rear motor to run retarded, and you don't want that. It's fine if both motors are set to zero timing though. Best way is to loosen the two screws in the endbell and turn the endbell 180 degrees.

See Psycho Pat Crawler parts on facebook or dluxfab.com

Yeah I noticed. I had an R1 in my cart on RCMart on Sunday night and it was out of stock when I went to pay Monday morning. Checked their eBay listing and they'd ended that aswell. Made me wonder if there's an R2 coming out soon.

I'm after a Spec-r R1(pro spec preferred), S1, S2 or parts for these if anyone has any they don't want....

No mate, cogging has nothing to do with worm drive. It happens with a sensorless brushless motor, whatever the drivetrain is. With the Losi being worm drive, the cogging effect will be worse than a normal ring and pinion drive.Cogging comes from a sensorless motor not knowing wich way to spin at very low revs, so it stutters. Pretty useless for a crawler. The link given for the ezrun sensorless esc and 1200kv motor is the reason i mentioned cogging. Also, that motor wouldn`t have anywhere near enough power for the LCC, even on 3s. What you`re thinking cogging is, is just the front and rear axle running at different speeds and binding the transmission up. Using Dig will free up the binding. The reason the Night Crawler transmission can run a brushed motor happily is the internal gear ratio is different to the comp crawler. Only problem is there is no Dig on the NC gearbox.

Hey, only giving advice on what i know, and not what i`ve heard Have a read up on cogging, your understanding of it is a little off.

Who was it that comp`d with an ezrun in an LCC?