Garry

Its a Bycmo which was a partworks magazine build in the late 90s, it was notoriously poor quality in that it came with a soft plastic pinion gear which helped in shredded everything in sight. You've done well for it to last as long as it has, some were reported to be dead after a couple of test runs. I'd put money on the mesh and/or teeth quality being the root of the sound.

Threadlock should never be used on pinions But yes I agree, however your problem is with the tools not the grubscrew material or size. Pinion grubscrews only need to be nipped up by hand so if you're having trouble with them rounding still after that, then you need to be looking at every step in the process. RW grubscrews are steel so already very resistant to rounding off.

Motors don't burn out because of the battery unless its was more voltage than it can handle, but being a 2s pack 7.4v is well within the specs of the motor. Heat is a motor killer though, gearing on the motor can generate a lot of heat if youre either overgeared or under geared. Imagine driving a car on a motorway for miles on end in 1st gear= Undergeared. Imagine driving a car on town for miles on end in 6th gear = Overgeared. Where were you driving and how? The style, the type of driving ? Flat out in a park requires very different gearing to in a garden.

New servo day. SRT BH6015

It looks like an MA Toys vehicle you'd see on sale at seaside markets. I'd guess it runs a 9.6v battery? If it runs fixed frequency (just 27mhz or 40mhz not replaceable frequency crystals) its a toy car.

Kyosho sold it as an electric car for a while so in theory you could find the required parts and swap them over. But they'll be fairly hard to find so a better option would be to sell it as it is and get an electric car from the start. But if you want to convert there's several hurdles to cross. 1. Finding out what pitch spur gear it runs to know what pinions you'll need. 2. Fabricating a motor mount. 3. Fabricating a battery mount. Not terribly difficult but depends on what tools and skill you have. The gear pitch by far will be the most complicated. I recently converted a nitro to electric which was simply a 32dp gear, pinions for those are very common. If its metric them you'll be looking at 0.6mod which is a common Tamiya pitch, or Mod1 which is more common on 1/8th cars so I doubt it's be that aggressive.

Grub screws round off because of poor quality tools. I've used RW pinions exclusively since 1998 and only rounded two grub screws, both times using poor tools one L-shaped Allen key one prototype I was testing for an importer who eventually rejected them). Get a decent 1.5mm hex driver from a reputable brand and you'll have no issues with rounding them. Anything more than that is simple unneeded effort to go the long way round to solving the issue.

No they are great for driving slowly but no good for racing.

but a one-time payment instead of Is anybody on here using Affinity Designer? It seems like a halfway house between Inkscape and Adobe Illustrator. But its a one-off payment instead of subscription like Illustrator. I use Inkscape for basic text SVGs for 3D printing, I find Inkscape difficult to use and complex to learn from Youtube vids if I wanted to make vector graphics. So I began looking for simpler alternatives and discovered Affinity Designer. The trial version is 10 days and I won't be able to dig deep enough in that to figure out if its worth opening my wallet in that time. I've got a free trial of CorelDraw 2020 about to run out too (also pricey), So if I plumped for one I'd be learning it from scratch.

Don't forget the Etsy Alan Sugars 😆

Storage takes the voltage of the pack to the desired voltage level. So if it was fully charged it'll discharge it down to the level. If it was low it'll charge it up to the desired level. You don't need to manually discharge it it. Storage mode does it for you. On my charger I only use 2 functions, charge and storage. I only discharge when the battery is at the end of its usable life.

Mine was a 3s pack. It lasted until the fire service came so...? Don't confuse actual experience with edited youtube videos.

I'd love to know why the delay? Why not today?

Categorically and dangerously wrong there. You're an idiot if you believe that. I've had a LiPo fire so I know that bluntly untrue.

In very simple terms they should never be charged above 4.2v per cell. Never be allowed to run below 3.8v per cell. Most goo chargers will charge to that limit. and store to that limit once you tell it the battery size and voltage. All batteries self discharge so they can't be left unused for month or they may fall below the 3.8v threshold without you knowing. ''Storage mode'' is where the charger takes the battery to a predetermined p point, about 60% charged typically, so they self discharged is not unsafe. New batteries come in storage mode. No need to discharge, I go from my last run straight into storage mode if I'm not racing for a couple of weeks. NiMH on brushless is fine generally but won't work as well as LiPo as modern brushless are pretty much designed arounds the higher voltages of LiPo.

Basically, and broadly speaking, its fairly easy to misuse them and irreversibly damage them. They aren't as resilient to damage like Nickel based cells were. BUT They aren't automatic firecrackers either. Lithium cells are easy to look after, easy to use, they are found in most electronic devices these days. They give plenty of warning something is going wrong. Care for your LiPo and it'll care for you or something like that. They aren't ''charge and forget'' technology just like Ferrari's aren't ''service it once every 5 years cars''.

Pactra fluorescent Orange, I'm not sure how available it is in the UK these days.

It's actually pretty small, about the size of an iPad mini. Its an iCharger 406 Duo.

New charger. Bring on the thermonuclear 40A charges. 😄

Whats the budget?

Flex test passed. It is a bit of a satin finish so might not last well against scratched but if you're painting lexan inside the body that won't matter much. Just like the scratch prone areas with tape?

Vapextech on ebay, Everything else in inferior in the NiMH sector. the length is the limiting factor here though as their 4300s are 138mm. I'd be trying to modify thing thing it's going in to fit 138mm packs.

Its dead sadly, Gears can be replaceable but only on higher end servos where the value is worth it, but not this one unfortunately. Try a metal geared servo with a servo saver next time. It likely broke when it landed with the wheel pointing one way, the weakest link was the output gear.

Thats a shorty 1/10th racing battery, I'd be very skeptical of the 140C claim, Hobbyking notoriously make numbers up. And the case seam being visble under the label it looks cheaply poorly made. But if you still want it yep just solder on the XT60 plug.

Youtube is a great tool bjut the main questions are what issue are you encountering at the moment and what are you hoping to achieve?