SmugR

Good to see this thread on the first page, I may be late to the mt4 party, but am enjoying the truck so far! New to me, never been run outside Bash shell on Stripped it prepped diffs and usual mt4 checklist courtesy of wonder tiger forum, ready to go Broke it first time out, at a skate park, fixed it, bashed it a bit and its held up I know there are still quite a few of these on the forum so would be great to keep the mt4 love alive Oh and has anyone converted theirs to 23mm hubs?

Have a look at these.... http://losiforums.net/showthread.php?t=113 http://losiforums.net/showthread.php?t=85 The grind huh!! Yeah never seems to work that way either... Glad you kept the best ones though!!

Alright J, all good with me. Life does throw up some interesting stuff, whilst your making other plans!!! You all good though. Had an rc spell back in 2013, when I got into truggies and buggies a bit, but still an mt guy at heart. Had a bad run with the e-xxl and put some heavy damage on it and a few other trucks, chucked them on they`re stands and left em be for a bit. Been into mtb for most of 2014, but had a bad spill and injured my neck and back, and been using the opportunity of extra downtime to sort out some of them, plus a little treat here and there. Plus I believe I finally know why I was smashing diffs way back! Have a look in the monsters thread for some recent e-lst work. Matt I`ll link you a guide for re building diffs, and a top end build by one of the lst forum, hdrcvideo forum og`s. Personally I`d probably not do it the way that guy has, for a few reasons, but for you it`ll be simpler if you leave the chassis alone, and it won`t compromise your build. I`ll post up some pics soon when I mount my new batt tray and the new rx box. Plus there are a few very nice ideas in the build thread I`ll link for you, so just take the ideas you like best from all the different ones. Just go 1 step at a time and it`ll come together no problem.

mattmatt, have a little look in the monsters thread linked in my signature, there is some leccy lst info in there with pics, from early on and recent rebuild, not completed, with changed layout. If JayJ is about a bit these days, he`s a good guy to ask for info, I can help out a bit, but rusty these days :0, the dude does ship to the uk, I run his stuff on mine, along with JJ and I`m sure a few others and its properly the best. That combo will be fine, as mentioned 4s with a decent c rating, 30 min with a good burst rate will give you a good punch. Plus being an lst, not lst2, your truck has a few more weak spots, but you`ll soon work out what they are. Order up a pr losi 8t hd diff cases losb3258, and get some shims losb3951, and build your diffs with these. Good luck, keep asking the questions and throw up a thread.

cheers for the reply, its weird, I can paste on other forums I use, just not here, and I used to do it no probs.... been editing my posts and adding pics using my phone, but its a right pita to be honest.

So I found I had the right program card to speak to the esc. Stripped it a checked the diffs, prepped them with oil 300k c, 50k f, 30k r. Got it back together, ready to go nice and fresh, never to be the same again Took it to the skate park and christened it within a pack Fixed it, using lst2 hinge pins, added an extra front hinge pin brace and went again, with some dirt this time Enjoying it so far, needs a bit more punch, or my hardcase 4s packs have lost a bit of their oompf, also seems quite keen to drop the nose in the air, without adding any brake, have some minor goodies on the way and looking forward to getting some more pack through it.

Great to see some lst action, and JayJ its been a while mate.

A lovely truck sized box

Sound, yeah its a great place to be, cycling, kayaking, great beaches and countryside, a pint of Amstel and a Lasagne and chips outside The Duke in the sunshine is a fave! We`re a bit short of bmx tracks to bash rc`s on, but plenty of other places, and hwest has a skate park now, not taken any rc`s there yet, but sooon, very soon they`re just no forgiving places, all the damage above was from half a pack on some skate ramps in Johnston park. Got a lipo tray to adapt, I think I'll need to add a plate under it as the mounting holes are on the outside. Plus Been excited about a new arrival Pre owned but unused Some mods already added Going to get this body on there to save the oe one got a few bits to do before it gets run, check all the metal to metal screws for loctite, prob do the diffs, may change the steering servo straight away and it needs a deans on the battery connector. First impressions are its a tank and I'm excited to get out with it.

Yeah, used to be good fun, how long ago were you down here? Got a hpi vorza flux rx box in the post and its going to be a great fit for the lst, pics to follow.......

Cheers mate more to come Haha, not really going strong these days and has been through some different hands and names, not been in there for a whiiiiile, but def had some fun in there back in the day!!! The v12 motorbike is gone, no longer suspended from the ceiling.

Cheers for the info, I didn`t know they did custom trays, but I`d like an off the shelf solution, as I`ve bust a few bashing and would want replacements to be easily available.

Next thing to sort is the battery tray. Have tried the generic turnigy type one from a buggy conversion kit, but its too wide for the gap. The old novak one I was using is a good size, but doesn`t mount how I want it and it uses a bar to secure the lipo, which is broken and I`d rather Velcro straps. So on the hunt for something, a neat drop in something, with Velcro straps and apx 145 x 50mm externally, 140 x 45 int. Options so far are tekno v4, but cant find them in the uk, and some of the mounts will be in fresh air. Also seen a couple of gv ones, rail buggy and xtm ep, on rc willpower, but they don`t have any dimensions.

Hey All, I could use a little help finding a good battery tray. I`m doing some alterations to my bl lst2, including re locating the battery tray. I`ve tried the generic turnigy type one that's bundled with usual buggy conversion kits, but its too wide for the gap. Its getting mounted across the chassis, so I cant use any with the esc plate on the end, without butchering it anyway. Size wise I`m looking for something externally apx 145 x 50mm, internally 140 x 45 that uses Velcro straps to secure the lipo. I`ve been googling plenty and the Tekno v4 tray looks spot on size wise, but I can`t find it in the uk, and the outside 4 mounting lugs would be out over the sides of the chassis, not the end of the world, but no ideal either. Found two gv ones on rc willpower, one for a Rail buggy and one for an xtm ep, but they have no dimensions, so if anyone can help with size info that`d be awesome. Also if anyone has a factory bl buggy or truck with something that`d fit the bill, let me know the details/part no. , or if you`ve done a conversion and found a tidy tray that`d do the trick, I`d really appreciate the info. Cheers

Sorted the steering, going for a single servo this time, not sure if the link I improvised is going to hold up, but I`d rather it lets go than the servo take the hit. The 7995tg runs 333.3 oz-in / 24kg-cm @ 6v. The dual z590`s were 85 oz-in / 6.1 kg-cm each @ 6v so new set up is apx twice as powerful, less weight and easier to set up. The inspiration for this came from the losi forum, I just improvised my link differently, I just shortened the two rod ends that go from the servo savers to the steering crank ball ends, then as I needed a joining rod, threaded at both ends, I just cut down a fastener to the right length and threaded the rod ends on, took the ball end from the other bell crank, and bolted it through the servo arm.

If nothing else has changed, this is what I`d try, Heat the side of the engine block, not so much the cooling head, with the hair drier/heat gun as suggested. Remove the glow plug and light it up with the igniter, then re install the plug, tighten til its snug, then back it out apx 1/4-1/2 a turn. Stick the igniter on the plug Take your air filter off, grab your fuel bottle and drip a few drops of fuel into the carb. Now start it, when it catches gently give it a little throttle, just enough for it to try to pick up a little, it`ll be running on the fuel you dripped into the carb, this should help pull the fuel through if there is a small air lock. Hopefully it`ll stay running, if it does, keep gently blipping it, after 20 odd seconds take the igniter off, then tighten the plug down (with it still running). Just keep it running like this for as long as pos, hopefully the first tank. If you can get it through the first tank, it should start to get easier for you.

Started putting it back together onto a new std lst2 chassis. Then it was time to make some of the changes to the layout. Started in thin card...... But couldn`t help thinking the bent chassis had a bit on one end pretty much the exact size and shape....ish Note cutout on rh side to give clearance for the TDR motor mount Chopped down the fuel tank mounts so they were level with the top plate. Marked and drilled the 6 mounting holes, got it slightly squiffy, but it`ll do And Velcro`d in place. Zip tie on motor wires to stop them pulling on the Velcro adhesive, while the wires get used to being bent round the opposite way.

Hey Guys, Having some trouble with the sr3300t in my erbe, having been sat up for about a 18mths. I plugged in a lipo and put new batteries in the tx, selected the erbe and turned on the esc, but the esc didn`t settle to the ready to go status, just kept beeping with different variations of flashing leds when I tried it a couple of times. Checked the castle faq with the led status explanations and it seemed to suggest an rx or calibration issue. The esc didn`t respond to being calibrated. So thought I`d try re binding the rx. Popped in the bind plug and did the failsafe settings whilst trying to bind it, but no amber led on the rx indicating bind mode, just solid red and solid green. Googled issues with sr3300t`s and nothing similar to my issues came up. I tried both an analogue rx/tx, then another sr300 rx, and the esc responded fine, so its just the sr3300t, but I cant find any reference to the red and green leds and what they are telling me, or why the amber is not responding for the bind process. If anyone has had similar issues let me know if the rx is saveable, or junk!? If its gone its very disappointing, as I bought the dx3s set new, and have less than 10 hrs on the erbe and the sr3300t which was the rx included with the dx3s. I can feel an orange rx order in my future Cheers

No I launched it off a 1/4 pipe and the landing bent the shaft. Click the link in my sig to see the other damage!!

Losi lst2 forward only input shaft, to fix this

So its been a while, but the rc itch is needing a bit of scratching. Unfortunately there is some work to do before that can happen, as since my last post, the following few sessions left some carnage. The hyper st had driveline problems, loud clicking and only 2wd. Simple enough fix, turned out the centre diff had given up, with the planet gears embedding themselves into the diff case. No pics, but ended up swapping the diff and prepping it with 60k wt oil. The LST XXXL is a bit of a different story, have loads of pics, but am having trouble posting them up atm..... Damage, bent chassis, broken chassis rails, broken steering servo, smashed rx box, bent tranny input shaft, broken lipo tray, busted rear diff. Skate parks are bad.. are gooood, are baaaad..... At the moment its fully stripped, with lst bits everywhere, planning on a few changes to help reduce the stresses on the driveline and help it withstand my abusive driving. Considering going back to stock lst2 chassis, as the extra length of the xxl in the middle must be a contributing factor to the chassis bending and the side rails breaking, also it must be putting more stress on the rear diff as there is more length, more grip and weight resisting it when accelerating, focusing those increased forces directly at the rear diff. A downside is the shorter chassis doesn't allow me too mount the esc in the same way, which was neat and worked well.... Looking for a different rx box solution, as I`ve broken a few, have used the traxxas erbe one on the st an the hyper 8, so will try one of those low down on the chassis behind the front top plate. may sneak enough room on the short chassis to get the esc where I want it. Need a better way of mounting the batt tray, as I`ve done two in mounting them where the fuel tank was originally, the two posts that the tank sits on at the front have pulled the fasteners through the bottom, so roughly thinking of some flat cf, or delrin sheet to form a nice flat base to mount it to. Also considering swapping out the combo for a sensored on, esc is sensored, but the motor isn't, I`ve not run any of my combo`s sensored, but hope it`d be smoother and help ease the power into the driveline a bit. plenty to do!! Luckily I`m not short of lst bits so should be able to get it back together, if not finish all the improvements straight away. Bl hyper 8 pro had its pinion nicked for the caster ex1.5, not run that yet either. Bl eb4 s3 was having either radio, or esc glitching..... Add to that all my fuel is out of date and my erbe lipos have died.... I`ll add pics as soon as I can work out what the issue is.....added them using my phone, pita!!

Really like that, took a good hiding too.

Can anyone help me please, I`ve posted plenty of pics on here in the past without trouble, but at the moment I am unable. In the reply box I usually just paste the img code, and its done, but at the moment the cursor just flickers and nothing happens. I`ve allowed the site access to my clipboard, I`ve tried using the image posting icon as well, but once any link is pasted into the box, it freezes and won`t allow me to cancel, or proceed, this has happened every time I`ve tried this way. I`ve logged into another forum I use and checked if I can still paste links on there and its fine, so I`m stumped. I`m sure its something simple, or even stupid on my part, but it something is putting a spanner in the works.....