Evo tuning

Nice 1 Richard you will love it, I drove our proto car last weekend and really thought it was good

You need a few thickness of solder as you can get up to 1.3mm of squish is some standard engines, you won't damage anything as long as you make sure that any of the solder breaks off which if your carefull is highly unlikely For a tuned engine .6 is about the limit of squish with supporting mods, if you do drop your cylinder to increase squish remember you are also changing the port timing of the engine.

Can of worms lol. What I will say is when you run out get the venom max and go with my recommendations but when you change the oil remember to run the engine for 1 full tank as if you where running a new engine in just nice and gentle with no stress, to get rid of the old film of oil inside the engine. Hope this helps :-)

Depends on the oil and engine, my engines are really tight and the tolerances are very tight, and I have tested various ratios, the ratio I recomend with the venom max oil is 32-1 which is just over 31ml oil per litre or to be exact 156.5ml in 5 litres any more and it's a waste and will carbon the engine up very quickly. If its a standard engine with this oil then I would go with 30-1 which is 33.3 ml per litre or 166.5ml per 5 litres I always use a 59p measuring jug from Asda or tesco as this is by far more actuate than a mixing bottle or you could use a syringe which is even better.

The oil posted in the link is ok but it has to many cleaners in it hence the recommended oil of xr77 which has less, the other oil I recommended is king cobra venom max which is a fully synthetic oil with hardly any detergents or cleaners, this was chosen by me and tested for 12 months running on various engines around 40-1 with hardly any wear inside the engines, it is largely based on a kart oil but made to our spec, any oil will work in 2 stroke engines but I strip hundreds of engines each year and always ask the owner what oil they run on and you would be surprised how much wear there is in some of the engines I see on a daily basis. In highly tuned engines a good oil will really help with keeping the engine alive for longer, but the main thing is to keep the air filter clean all the time (probably more important than the oil itself) regular rebuilds on tuned engines are a must, most of the racers I supply engines too have had there engines 2 Years or more, they are still as good now as they where when new due to good clean air filters and good oil not to mention reg maintaince! If you increase the engines power 2 fold then be prepaid to shorten the life of the engine or at least change the ring every 15 tanks and full rebuilds around 25 tanks, some people will argue that's too much but trust me it's not, once an engine gets past a certain point of wear and tear it will never be as good as it was. Regarding horsepower of engines, I regularly Put some of my engines on a dyno to which I can see if the graph matches how the engine runs in real time and believe me there not always that accurate, but Iam not going to get in to pub talk figures as thats what they really are, the engine I have provided to Ross will make around 6.5hp with the right pipe, not as big as some tuners you say, well this is a stage 2 engine I go up to stage 4, it's not all about horsepower though it's about how it's delived and the drivability of the engine. not to mention I pride myself on reliability. If any one would like any advice on any engine matters then I will do my best to help, but please bare with me as I get a lot of emails everyday and it's hard to get through them all. [email protected] All the best Stevo

yes sorry I should have put the date on the post, it is this weekend the 20th as Mike has posted

NNRC @ preston Welcomes largescale, if your interested in racing or even just having a bash about on a large scale track get your self down to NNRC @ preston this weekend, even if you just fancy a look, I (stevo) and a few other racers will be there, so if you fancy a chat or some advice get your self down details of the track and location can be found here http://www.nnrc.info/

Its ok merlin I didnt take it as a slating lol but when i was selling engines through roger i didnt tune above 26cc or Cy head kits I only used Zenoah so it cant have been one of my engines i never tuned 29cc 2 bolt kits as they are in my opinion unreliable..

Look forward to racing on it this weekend, lets hope the weather holds out

Hello Merlin which Evo tuning engine did you have please let me now the number and date on the engine and which onb engine did you have as most onb engines are 27.2cc or 30.5cc also to compare against each other they would have to be both 26cc, did the engine feel faster or was it faster, these are 2 different things, The stage 3 28.5cc engine will produce 6.5 -7hp with a good tuned pipe on a dyno if you would like to check one also engines come in stage 1 stage 2 and stage 3 so each engine is made to a certain spec or customer so can vary depending on application or customer requirements.

You could always get an Elcon clutch costs about as much as a couple standard clutches but will last much much longer , I have had mine in my mcd for about 3 years lol, There are people on the forum running these clutches and Iam sure they will post to tell you what they think We have sold so many of these the last few months and all very happy customers, they will be back in stock in about 2 weeks. http://www.rossmod.co.uk/store.php?search=6&value=clutch&items=10&subvalue=210&order=5&product_id=22085&return=store.php

He drove really well, I think Dave will do well with the car this year and he even looked like he enjoyed it as well lol Oh and Dave thanks for all your help and support buddy

Elcon rims have a slightly different offset to MCD wheels about 2mm more , The FTX uses the standed offset Fg or old Hormann Wheels. hope this helps Stevo

Ha ha Hob nobs for the tea room sounds good lol I will stick the head in the ultrasonic cleaner so it cleans it up for you paypal is [email protected]

No worries m8 got your pm glad i can help postage will be

Check your air filter buddy and if your using a k&n type filter take it off as I see to many engines ruined by these filters, the best filter to use are good quality foam filters like Elcons new duel stage filter or rn tuning and other types like this. Carbon build up is black on a piston and what I can see in the picture is clearly caked on dirt which is brown in colour , I rebuild in excess of 5-6 engines per week and see this all the time its a commen problem of dirt getting in to the engine, Also make sure you use a good quality 2 stroke oil like castrol a747 or xr77, regarding the score marks on the cylinder, yes it may well run again but once upto operating tempreture, you will get alot of blow by the ring which will cause the engine to not want to rev out as the parts expand. I have some old cylinders with out score marks if you need one for your car, you can have one for free if you dont mind paying the postage.

Defo a faulty or unoiled filter as Hoss said as its caked on dirt that has burned on the piston. if you clean it up it prob would run but not for long

Looks awsome m8 roll on Kort national

If your interested I can convert your 2 bolt engine too a 4 bolt 28.5cc zenoah engine ported or unported pm me for details if interested Stevo

Looking good there buddy. The rpm arms look good on the baja

Ok basically in the heats the cars start of staggerd and its the car to do most laps in the 10 minites allocated (you are not actually racing each other your racing the clock) To get to your final postions its the person who has done the most laps in the allocated time then in your 1/8th 1/4 1/2 finals you race against each other, the top 3 to be bumped up to the next final, once the semi or 1/2 final is run its the top 5 drivers from the 2 semis that go to the final so 10 drivers in the main A final In the finals the race starts just like an f1 race and its the person in the lead after the 30 min is up

Lets hope Steve Haines gets the car together then cos I am looking forward to the next one, Yes my mcd had a good engine and pipe but the car was stock out of the box 5 days before aswell so I know I can be much faster with it than I was, Healthy competition is good and Steve Haines seems like a really nice guy its good to have some competition in the 4x4 class it makes it so much more interesting. But lets not speculate lets see what the results say

Great pics there m8, yes the yellow Mcd is mine and the green Mcd is Richards and the other car (Elcon Cleon) is mine also, you will have to come to kort and get some pics from that national next month

Welcome back m8 glad your on the mend, The mcd was truly awsome on the track and very strong there is much more to come from the car so let the results speak for them selves lol I was also testing the new 28.5cc 4 bolt zenoah head kit with my big power tune and I have to say it had so much power it was awsome and very smooth, The way you change tow in and camber etc on the car is very easy and you can not get it wrong so most people can have a simler setup that works, The car is truly awsome and its night and day between the old one, well done to MCD