PRAETORIAN

No mate, it wont ruin anything. Dont worry. Are you sure there is no glow plug? It may already be in the engine when you take off the plastic wrapper.....

Yeah there are a couple of ways. Read through this thread: http://www.msuk-foru...-post-pictures/ I personally use imageshack. Once you have created an online account with an image hosting provider, most of them with give you the direct code to copy and paste into forums. It is normally surrounded by image brackets IE [ img] [ /img] You can also upload photos to your personal MSUK photo album too by visiting http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/ and selecting the "upload" button on the top right of the page. Follow the instructions to create a new album. Once created you can then upload images to it and insert it into posts or link to it. Hope this helps. Cheers.

Mc59 are made by mcoy. Re fuel - not a problem at all but not strictly necessary. No problem if you already bought 20% fuel though. If you havent i would just go straight onto 25%.

Thanks for the info mate. The Team C stuff is way too expensive! If I go this route I will plump for the x8e from Modelsport I think. Also, arent inrunners for boats or something? I have been led to believe that 1700-2000kv is likely to be better in a buggy, but I am still pretty new to buggy BL systems. I used to run the castle MMM kit in my ST Pro - I think that was a 2200kv motor. So who is the best and most affordable for combos? Seems HobbyWing's xerun stuff is mentioned a lot around here.

First off. what kind of scale are you after? 1:10, 1:8, 1:5? What is your budget? What kind of chassis are you after? Petrol cars are almost always 1:5 scale (large scale) and will be big and expensive to buy and maintain. That said they are far more easy to get along with compared to nitro as you can pretty much tune and forget. You also get far higher run times, and more miles to a tank as it were. Nitro cars come in various scales, but the most popular is 1:8 (or 1:10 for monster trucks) - and a good starting point. Any RTR nitro from a respected manufacturer will be suitable starter car for someone new to the hobby. There are a range of chassis types to choose from, buggy, truggy, monster truck etc. Pretty much all manufacturers now bundle their RTR cars with 2.4ghz radio gear, which is also perfect for someone new to the hobby (no messing about with crystals etc). However, nitro has a steep learning curve, and a lot of people lose patience with it as nitro engines can be tempremental and cause headaches if you dont know what you are doing. That said there is a wealth of information freely available online that can teach you what you need to know if you are prepared to spend some time reading (or watching videos). Electric cars have come a very very long way with the advent of Brushless and Lipo being widely available and relatively affordable. However, I think for an RTR brushless package you will be spending more money compared to an RTR nitro package (for a decent model anyway). There are some cheaper brushless set ups but as with most things in life you get what you pay for. I would carefully look at your intended use for the car. Will you be interested in racing at a track? Or just doing your own thing in the local fields/park? Also look at the environment of where you are likely to be running the car. If it is in proximity to houses or anywhere it will likely cause disturbance, electric may be the better option. If noise is not an issue, then nitro and petrol is back on the table. Your budget expectations are also important as there will be a lot of 'extras' you are going to need if you are new to the hobby. For instance, with nitro cars the cost of fuel, glow starters, spare glow blugs, reciever battery and battery charger all add up. In brushless set ups it will be an added cost to buy a decent lipo charger and some lipo batteries. In large scale, it is the cost of fitting a kill switch, and buying 2 stroke oil to mix with the petrol (plus the inflated costs for parts if anything should break). I would expect to be spending

For me it has always boiled down to hex screws - or lack of on HPI stuff. Do HPI still use philips screws in their cars? Maybe it is the snob in me, but if they do it just aint right!

Hi all I am considering investing in an an X8e but have never run BL set ups in a buggy before. I will be bashing only, so Ideally I want something that is more suited to that. I will probably only be running 4S max. Ideally the combo will be waterproof, but that is not essential. I am more interested in reliability and performance for the money. Also with it being a buggy, I will be interested to know what kind of motor sizes will fit (length wise more than anything). I would also welcome recommendations on lipo's. I will most likely be running 2x2s lipos in series. Cheers

Black. All black is far more classy. Or all white with black wheels. Black with white wheels just does not work somehow.

I imagine it is just camber and toe settings mate. Looks like a bit of negative toe to me. I would leave it alone and see how the car runs first. It can normally be adjusted easily enough though if you need to.

Congrats mate, looks a nice motor Now you need to go and get it dirty (PS are those shocks threaded?)

Does anyone know if there is a truggy version widely available? From the build threads I have seen this x8e looks pretty good, and far better quality than expected. Dare I say it, the components look far more meaty and sturdy than the Hyper SS roller. The Hyper SS looks ok, but from the pictures, the shock towers are not as meaty, and the lay out seems unbalanced. That said I am not sure on how safe the x8e will be for the ESC when bashing perched on the centre diff like that. However, the saddle pack style battery trays should provide good balance. The car itself reminds me of some of the more premium models like Losi and Mugen. What kind of motor and ESC combo would be good to use in the x8e kit? (I'm seriously tempted to invest, but would still prefer the truggy though )

Hi has the engine been pinched or replaced, or is it still a bit slack? (Im assuming this is the truck you bought from Carpmart? ) What is your best price collected? Cheers

I totally forgot to mention threadlock - get some! Oh and tyre glue comes in handy as well. If you are bashing hard you might separate your tyres from the rims in crashes etc. It also comes in handy for temporary fixes to plastic stuff It is always handy to have red and blue thread lock, and the thinnest tyre glue you can find. I used to use this stuff and found it very good: http://www.jemodels.com/nitro-models?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=11038&category_id=277&keyword=glue Be careful though because it can and will stick anything it touches together almost instantly - including skin. Handle with care! Cheers

So how did it turn out with the 8ight T? They are a cracking car and have a brilliant engine out of the box I would recommend a screw kit from somewhere too - as they always come in handy Any decent 25% fuel should be fine. Most people tend to run Opti or Byrons. I would get yourself some spare plugs for the running in/initial tuning too - the MC-59 is a great plug for the 454 engine

I'm not sure on the HoBao system but on spektrum systems if you reverse your channels (IE reverse your servo direction) AFTER you have set your failsafe positions, it also applies it to the failsafe system - so when it should be using full brakes to stop a run away, it actually engages wide open throttle. Like I said, it may be different on the HoBao stuff, but worth bearing in mind.

If you are running every day, then ARO is not technically needed. But if you are leaving it a week or more between runs, it is good to use ARO. Air filter oil is only needed as and when really - there are no set rules. Yes, the standard HoBao servos are rubbish. I would upgrade them both as soon a as possible if I were you

Yes they will be fine. Do some searching on the forum / google for how and when to use the ARO. It is 2.4ghz but it looks quite basic - Someone who owns one might be able to help further - but the close up picture on the webpage shows a button labelled as "F/S" which might be something to do with it. Or again searching the forum or Google might give you some answers. You dont need over strong ones as they will stress your servo. I used to just hook mine over the end of the carb and around the HSN needle housing.

Also, I'm not sure on the RC gear included as standard, but I would consider a failsafe as highly important unless you have already got one built in to the RC gear that comes with the car. I would also start looking around for suitable rubber bands to use as a mechanical failsafe on your carb slider as electronic ones are not 100% reliable You dont want it too tighht, just enough to pulll in the carb slider to close the throttle enough for you to run after your car if you have a run away

They are all rebranded engines manufactured by SH as far as I know.

Something like this would do very nicely: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/dynamite-metered-glow-starter-and-charger/rc-car-products/23917

What kind of starter kit? Like a glow starter etc? My personal experience is to avoid Ansmann stuff - I have had 3 of their glow starters now and all have been rubbish. I would choose a good quality glow starter if I were you. I would also invest in some spare glow plugs - as during break in and initial tuning you may blow some. Most people use OS8 plugs, and from my own experience they are pretty good. At some point I would also consider buying a proper 6v battery pack for your receiver too so you are not messing around with AA batteries (although out of the box this is NOT required - it is a future upgrade if you decide to). Once you decide to invest in a receiver battery, you will also need a charger for it. A lot of people are using small lipos now, so you will need a half decent charger if you decide to go that route. As it stands all you are going to need is: Glow starter + charger Spare glow plugs Fuel bottle Fuel AA batteries - good quality ones (lots of them - some for your transmitter, some for your receiver. Rechargeable ones are useful, but obviously more expensive and if you go that route you will also need a charger for them too.) Wheel spanner (although I am pretty sure HoBao include these with their RTR cars). This is used to screw in and unscrew your glow plugs in the top of your engine. I would also consider purchasing some Air filter oil (with spare foams for your car if they have any), and some After Run Oil to help keep your engine in good shape.

I'm not 100% sure, but I am pretty sure the Losi 454 with the roto/pullstart back plate does not fit in the ST. I have a hazy memory of a guy I used to bash with having a right headache getting one into his ST Pro (had to do some modifications). I used to run an STS .21 in my ST Pro and it was a stonking engine. Before that I used an OS Vspec .21 and that was also very capable. I also know of people who have run the standard Mach28 and seen really good reliability/performance. Bump start model is

You will be fine to use your Optifuel - as I said it is not a bad fuel, it just runs a little smokey compared to other fuels. You can change your fuel brand whenever you like, but you will probably have to tweak your engine tuning to suit the new fuel. It is not a big job, and some minor tweaking is all that should be needed. You may have to re-tune to a higher extent if you change the % fuel you are using though. For instance if you went down to 20% nitro. Again, not a big job, but something you will have to do. You wouldn't really want to go down to 16% and 30% would be a bit OTT. The fuel you have is perfectly OK for your car.

Yeah 25% nitro should be fine. I always used to use Byrons Gen2 though. Optifuel tends to run quite smokey, so for a beginner who is looking for the right kind of smoke trail, it can be misleading. You could be running too lean but the smoke trail will appear just right. Worth bearing that in mind. That said, as a fuel, there isn't anything wrong with Optifuel. It is mostly horses for courses where fuel is concerned, although the general consensus is to avoid cheapo fuel.

Just use a bit on your crown gear and pinion. You dont need to to OTT though.