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PRAETORIAN

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Everything posted by PRAETORIAN

  1. I used to have an 8ight 2.0 and it was a cracking car. Probably the best buggy I have ever run. Quick, agile, good at jumping, superb mid air handling and pretty tough too. Bashed it pretty hard and only popped a shock seal Seeing as the EU is an improvement on the 2.0 I would recommend it, but don't discount the 2.0, it is still a cracking car
  2. I always used 40WT all round. The rear is supposed to be a little softer to help transfer the power to the ground - hence why the rear 'squats' under hard acceleration. As your car is just a basher, you can tune with diff oils if you like, but I never bothered. Plain old grease for me! Standard brakes on the Nitro ST are rubbish yes. Using a more powerful servo helps a little, but the problem is the servo then starts to overpower the servo horn and also it will flex the radio tray. The ideal solution is to buy an aftermarket quad brake set up. Something like craddocks. I had a set on one of my ex ST-Pro's and the brakes were stonking! Cheers
  3. TO In 3 posts flat! Just thought I would leave this here.....
  4. Yes although be aware that they often sell products at their RRP, so can be over priced for some things compared to other retailers. For example: http://cmldistribution-uk.shptron.com/p/hobao-hyper-cage-buggy-rtr-w-mach-28-savox-2-4ghz-radio-black?pp=20 Compared to http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobao-hyper-cage-rtr-buggy-w-machstar-28-black-/rc-car-products/370700 So just do your checking and see what everywhere else is selling at before you purchase anything from CML
  5. If you can find any in stock, these are a great buggy. RTR, comes with spektrum RC gear and a starter box. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/losi-8ight-2.0-rtr/rc-car-products/34993
  6. They are also notoriously difficult to seal and like to leak a lot if you use diff oil. They are OK, but I ditched mine because I couldn't be bothered with the hassle! You can seal them if you use a bit of silicone sealant as threadlock on the diff screws, but it is not always guaranteed you will get a seal.
  7. Got a losi 8ight 2.0 nitro roller and some radio gear. Bit by bit I'm getting the bits together to have a running car! You guys still bashing at fenton? Not sure how long it will be till I have a working car, but hopefully before the end of summer Cheers
  8. uhm.......Yeah you can bash with one, but they ain't all that Much better off with a tough truggy as it is more versatile in my opinion. Also HPI stuff is so over priced its getting silly!
  9. Indeed, and glow plugs too! But i'm talking in terms of purchasing an RTR. Running costs are lower on brushless unless you have a habit of cooking your esc etc, but initial lay out is usually quite a bit higher. For example the trophy truggy flux sells at
  10. There is nothing wrong with buying 2nd hand as long as you know what you are doing. Personally I only buy 2nd hand engines off people I know I can trust, and I also only try and buy cars from reputable people. Just be sensible and do your research. Find out what similar cars have been going for, and trust your gut. If something seems like it is too good to be true, it probably is!! Rule of thumb - if someone is flogging a nearly new car for less than half of what they supposedly paid for it, then they could well be a scammer I have had some brilliant cars, all of which were 2nd hand. Indeed, I have only ever had 2 brand new cars out of all the ones I have owned. There are no hard and fast rules about cost either. It really boils down to two things - what the seller is prepared to accept, and what you are prepared to pay. Just look around at what similar cars are going for. Sometimes you get lucky and a seller is so desperate to sell they take silly money. Other times they ask over the odds and their car sits unsold for weeks. I think for nitro, depending on the car and engine and pipe combo + RC gear, you can get a good pro-spec car for
  11. No I was saying that waterproof electrics are excluded from the the weakness to water and damp conditions that non waterproof electrics suffer. Hopefully waterproofed electrics will become the norm in the near future, and then brushless will add another versatile string to its bow However, as it stands, most electrics are not waterproof, and so are susceptible to the wet.
  12. Like I said, horses for courses. You are running Tamiya, which to be fair are cheap and cheerful and ideal for those on a tight budget or just starting in RC. Obviously upgrades and parts will be cheaper, but then so is the build quality and the overall ability of the car is likely lower than a full fat nitro or brushless. That said, I think there are some great low budget leccy cars on the market that are superior to the offerings from Tamiya. Cars with a similar price point to Tamiya would be offerings from FTX, Maverick, Ansmann, or even something like the Team C jekyll. I have personally never understood the Tamiya thing (and I have owned a few). But thats just me
  13. Yeah I definitely think nitro is a love/hate relationship But that said - nitro is overall more resilient. You dont have to worry too much about water/mud with nitro, where as puddles and snow and rain and wet grass can = the death of your leccy (excluding waterproofed leccy's obviously)
  14. The prices I mentioned were for brand spankers. You can get ones cheaper 2nd hand. The key is with 2nd hand engines is to know where they have come from. If it is someone you know you can trust, you can get some cracking bargains. I tend to avoid eBay specials and only buy used engines from a credible source. Usually the racing crowd who can use an engine for a season and then sell it on. One of the best engines I ever had was an STS .21 which was an ex race engine. Cost me
  15. You can buy a good all round budget .21/.28 engine for
  16. Yes very true - but also, just to add to that, it may also be what is best for their circumstances at the time. For instance if they live in an area where nitro would not be suitable, electric would be a better route. Circumstances change, and so a persons choice of power source can change with it. For me, I dont have the time I need to commit to nitro properly, so at this stage in time, electric is a better option. Who knows, further down the line if I get more time I might buy another nitro The main thing is, its a hobby so have fun whatever car you run
  17. Oooooer missus! Wheres ya handbag?
  18. Well, where do I start...... Brushless technology is overall more expensive than nitro at the moment. So to buy / convert to brushless is going to be a higher outlay intitially. However, once you have your leccy kit and if you look after it, the only additional costs will be the purchase of spares from breakages/damage, or replacement lipos if you fluff one up by not looking after it. With nitro, the initial cost is lower, but you have the running costs of buying nitro all the time (
  19. We aint in the electric forum, if you wanna be a leccy fanboi, you are in thr wrong place!!
  20. What piston inserts has it got in the shocks? If it has the type with loads of holes, you might just need to use heavier oil, or swap them out for inserts with less holes. The increased resistance in the shock body should help to stop the car bottoming out too easily. That said - its a nitro platform, and they are designed to bottom our under impact, so the forces get transferred through the chassis.
  21. Leccy is definitely more convenient. As already mentioned, start up costs are often higher, but in the long term you will probably spend less. That said, nitro is a better drive in my opinion.
  22. All sorted now thanks, please close.
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